Using clone ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII adapter with Leaf

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
LEAFer said:
Stoaty said:
rslatkin said:
The photo for that extension cable on Amazon makes it look like the cable will exit towards the rear of the car, just like the one I bought. Is the photo accurate? My OBD connector has the wider side of the connector on the right and the narrower side on the left.
It exits towards the front of my 2011 Leaf. I will have to check to see which side of the connecter is on the right/left.
Wondering if the OBDII port is installed in opposite orientation in other cars.

On our LEAF the "shorter" side of the port (the one with the tab on the OBDII reader) is on the LEFT side of the car.

HTH.

It's the same on the 2013.
 
ColumbiaRiverGorge said:
The default setting on the app. is 5% SOC or .4 kw/h. Can someone please tell me how much SOC & kw/h are left once I get to turtle?
Less than 0.2 kWh and 1% SOC.
 
Based on the use of simulated GIDs, what is a safe value to pick for %SOC at turtle?

Oh, as side note could the user documentation be update to note what values need to be changed in the app settings for each car? When I started the app I had 293 'GIDs for a 100% charge and wasn't sure how to change effect this value based on the current documentation. Thanks!
 
bradbissell said:
Based on the use of simulated GIDs, what is a safe value to pick for %SOC at turtle?

Oh, as side note could the user documentation be update to note what values need to be changed in the app settings for each car? When I started the app I had 293 'GIDs for a 100% charge and wasn't sure how to change effect this value based on the current documentation. Thanks!
I believe that LEAFfan mentioned about 10 'Gids or 0.8 kWh, but your experience might vary. Personally, I would love to see the formula used for 'Gids be refined. Although it's just an approximation, I believe that it could be a lot closer to the real thing that it is in its present form.
 
surfingslovak said:
bradbissell said:
Based on the use of simulated GIDs, what is a safe value to pick for %SOC at turtle?

Oh, as side note could the user documentation be update to note what values need to be changed in the app settings for each car? When I started the app I had 293 'GIDs for a 100% charge and wasn't sure how to change effect this value based on the current documentation. Thanks!
I believe that LEAFfan mentioned about 10 'Gids or 0.8 kWh, but your experience might vary. Personally, I would love to see the formula used for 'Gids be refined. Although it's just an approximation, I believe that it could be a lot closer to the real thing that it is in its present form.

Turbo3 posted 10 'Gids, but it was 8 on mine probably because I was driving much slower.
 
ColumbiaRiverGorge said:
When I charge to 100% I keep getting 93% on the SOC reading on thr turbo3 app. I thought it should read 95% Any ideas as to what is going on here?
The final SOC likely depends on cell balancing. It's not one big battery, but a small of 96 much smaller ones.
 
ColumbiaRiverGorge said:
When I charge to 100% I keep getting 93% on the SOC reading on thr turbo3 app. I thought it should read 95% Any ideas as to what is going on here?

My pack is always well balanced, and at 100% charge the App SoC% is always more than 95%. It's usually around 97%.
 
We have a 2 week old 2013. Using this app and an ELM327 Bluetooth, the app is reporting a battery capacity of 95.53%.

Does that mean that we've already lost 4.5%, or is this within normal manufacturing tolerance and the battery could be within spec for a brand new battery at this level?
 
dm33 said:
We have a 2 week old 2013. Using this app and an ELM327 Bluetooth, the app is reporting a battery capacity of 95.53%.

Does that mean that we've already lost 4.5%, or is this within normal manufacturing tolerance and the battery could be within spec for a brand new battery at this level?
To my knowledge Nissan has never disclosed how much usable capacity a new battery pack should have, not to mention their manufacturing tolerances. There was a lot of discussion on the topic, and the consensus seems to be that capacity readings decline somewhat during the summer but recover in winter. They are likely not a 100% reliable representation of battery capacity.
 
dm33 said:
We have a 2 week old 2013. Using this app and an ELM327 Bluetooth, the app is reporting a battery capacity of 95.53%.

Does that mean that we've already lost 4.5%, or is this within normal manufacturing tolerance and the battery could be within spec for a brand new battery at this level?

Since you are from NC, its probably quite warm right now. In the recent build up to the warm temps I've lost 4.5% capacity or more in just over a month, which is the LEAF's reaction to the warmth, not real capacity loss. Since we are close geographically one could assume you've temporarily lost a similar amount due to heat, which would bring you close to 100% at 'normal temps of' 72F.

I don't think you have any great concerns at this juncture.
 
JPWhite said:
dm33 said:
We have a 2 week old 2013. Using this app and an ELM327 Bluetooth, the app is reporting a battery capacity of 95.53%.

Does that mean that we've already lost 4.5%, or is this within normal manufacturing tolerance and the battery could be within spec for a brand new battery at this level?

Since you are from NC, its probably quite warm right now. In the recent build up to the warm temps I've lost 4.5% capacity or more in just over a month, which is the LEAF's reaction to the warmth, not real capacity loss. Since we are close geographically one could assume you've temporarily lost a similar amount due to heat, which would bring you close to 100% at 'normal temps of' 72F.

I don't think you have any great concerns at this juncture.
I thought these batteries had more capacity when warm. But the heat damages and ages them especially when fully charged.

This summer has so far been unusually cool. Had our first 90 day this week. Unusually late in the year. The car lives in a garage when not on the road. 700 miles already. We've found that we haven't use either of our other two cars. Need to sell one.
 
Stoaty said:
bradbissell said:
Does the connector snap in to the odb port or is it just pushed in and held there by friction? Really don't want to press too hard and break the port on the car.
Just pushes in. If bumped will sometimes get loose enough that connection is lost (mainly experienced with original Gid meter, but not often).

I am going to remove the other extension cables from the Wiki list, as the one from JP white is superior in the following ways:

1) Cable exits toward the front of the car
2) Cable is thinner and more pliable, thus easier to route

Thanks, I think it's good to just provide the best options in the wiki so as we learn more about the products available cleaning like that is import.
 
JPWhite said:
dm33 said:
We have a 2 week old 2013. Using this app and an ELM327 Bluetooth, the app is reporting a battery capacity of 95.53%.

Does that mean that we've already lost 4.5%, or is this within normal manufacturing tolerance and the battery could be within spec for a brand new battery at this level?

Since you are from NC, its probably quite warm right now. In the recent build up to the warm temps I've lost 4.5% capacity or more in just over a month, which is the LEAF's reaction to the warmth, not real capacity loss. Since we are close geographically one could assume you've temporarily lost a similar amount due to heat, which would bring you close to 100% at 'normal temps of' 72F.

I don't think you have any great concerns at this juncture.

I just brought home a brand new 2013 SL with 88 miles on it. On a supposedly fully charged pack at the dealership (onboard SOC showing 100%), Gids were only 263 using an original GIDmeter. Using the ELM327 app, I saw 60.89 AH and 91.91% CAP. After driving home, the AH was 60.95 and the CAP was 92.00% I am sort of concerned about the capacity of this new pack. However, the cell pair voltage graph showed all cell pairs but one in RED. I'm assuming that indicates that the pack is trying to balance itself. My plan is to run the pack down some tonight and then do a 100% charge with no end timer and allow the pack to balance some in the morning. I'm expecting to see increasing figures over the next few days.

Pictures below. (Taken with my iPhone because my antique Droid can't take screen shots.)
 

Attachments

  • June 15 new ELM 1.jpg
    June 15 new ELM 1.jpg
    250.3 KB · Views: 136
  • June 15 new ELM 2.jpg
    June 15 new ELM 2.jpg
    238.7 KB · Views: 136
  • June 15 new ELM 3.jpg
    June 15 new ELM 3.jpg
    216.8 KB · Views: 136
Gents,

I modified an ELM327 to build my own CAN interface and check some messages. My ELM can now read the EVCAN and the AVCAN. I was wondering if somebody can help me with some information. What are the addresses and parameters (11 bit ID bits and other parameters or AT commands) that I have to set/send in order to retrieve data? I want to read the 1DA, 1DB and 5BC messages and explore some others. I also want to monitor other information on the EV and AV buses.

I tried several masks and commands but it is more a guess and I don't get the correct information.

Appreciate if you can give me some help.

Cheers!!!

(P.S.: I mistakenly posted this under another topic. Will erase the other topic if I can)
 
Quite a change in my readings after a few hours of the car sitting in the garage and then about 30 miles of driving.

Amp Hours now up to 61.63. CAP now up to 93.02%. Cell display now all green and balanced looking. I'll continue to monitor after an overnight charge and balance opportunity.
 

Attachments

  • June 15 new ELM 5.jpg
    June 15 new ELM 5.jpg
    91.6 KB · Views: 86
Boomer23 said:
Quite a change in my readings after a few hours of the car sitting in the garage and then about 30 miles of driving.

Amp Hours now up to 61.63. CAP now up to 93.02%. Cell display now all green and balanced looking. I'll continue to monitor after an overnight charge and balance opportunity.

On the Android software aren't Ah and CAP the same thing? I understood CAP was just Ah * (some user configurable setting).. Or is this the actual health % from group 1? If its just Ah * (some user configurable setting) then it's of little use when comparing cars and only useful for the user to check relative Ah degradation (assuming they set the multiplier correctly when the car was "new"). Whenever possible we should be using raw numbers and not numbers that are arbitrarily derived for consistent comparison between vehicles.

Assuming that the max Ah is 66.25 is arbitrary.. Making it user configurable only adds further to the confusion. Similarly assuming the max Gids is 281 is well... Never mind.
 
boomer,
Tap the lower part of the cell voltage screen several times to change
the scale of the screen, down to 50 mv instead of 300 mv, to "zoom
in" and see your data better.

Tapping the upper half increases the scale, in steps, up to 300 mv
to "zoom out" to see the wider variations that usually occur when
the cell voltages are low, down near LBW, VLBW, and Turtle.

More importantly,...
How does the Leather feel? :D
 
Back
Top