TonyWilliams
Well-known member
dgpcolorado said:That seems very unfair. The range chart can be used to plan a trip (5 miles at 30 mph, 23 miles at 65 mph, etc) to get an idea of whether it is feasible. The idea that it is necessary to integrate changing speeds and compare them to the range chart while driving misses the point of it IMO..... Since the Phoenix area is rather higher than sea level and often quite a bit warmer than 70º, are you considering those factors? They make a substantial difference.LEAFfan said:Dale, I also found the chart inaccurate for me too, but for a different reason. Even at his "exactly" speeds, I always exceed the m/kW h and the miles. He did his testing and based his chart on CA roads, which is much different than here. Also, they're based on set speeds once you reach the freeway/Interstate which isn't realistic because most people have to travel a ways to get to those freeways/Interstates which can really boost your miles and m/kW h. To tell drivers to 'reset' their dash meter when they reach the freeway is ridiculous when they are trying to see how many miles they can go on their WHOLE trip. You should only reset your meter IF you want to just do some of your own research. Like I said, I did reset the meter when I reached the freeway (for comparisons), drove all freeway at a set speed under his ideal conditions, and STILL exceeded his figures every time.daleandwendy said:I found the famous range chart to be inaccurate for me. Now I drive without range anxiety because I know how far I can go.
Dale
This has been pointed out to LEAFfan many, many times. As we can easily tell, Phoenix is higher and MUCH hotter than the baseline data on the chart.
For example, we know that Phoenix is 1100 feet-ish, and with a 120F degree day at standard pressure 29.92 (adjusted to sea level, as is the custom) and 20F dew point in that parched area is over 5000 feet in density altitude. The chart is based on sea level.
How to calculate density altitude
I estimate a 1.5% increase in performance per thousand feet raise in density altitude, therefore a 7.5% increase in range overall above the chart data with the above given criteria. Naturally, LEAFfan makes no adjustments and merely says the same thing over and over. I offered this post to LEAFfan to help him.
The best way to handle the multi segment trip is with simple math, explained in this post. Also, the iPad / iPhone app at the Apple Store helps a bunch with this, but does not have multi segment calculations yet:
I thought I'd expand a bit on how to determine range with a composite trip of city and highway driving.
It's relatively easy to get on the freeway, set the cruise control on 60 mph, and there's not much more to do. Assuming the conditions meet the parameters of the chart (level, etc), you'll knock out performance that matches the chart.
If conditions do NOT match the chart, you will have to use a bit of wisdom to determine how that might affect you. Going up hill, into a headwind, very hot or cold outside, and running the heater or a/c will reduce the chart data. Unfortunately, we do not yet have a chart formula to estimate how those parameters might specifically affect range.
Other issues extant to the above parameters are "cell balancing", which seems to affect how full the battery may charge (only affects 100% charge), and is easy to determine when the 12th fuel bar quickly disappears during your trip after a 100% charge.
The other end is more troublesome. If any one cell (of the 96) is not balanced, you may loose the last 5 to 10 miles of your range. I predict we'll have a way to measure the cells to determine whether those last miles are available. For now, however, it appears that the odds are overwhelmingly in your favor that you will make it, but planning a trip to the last mile is bad form anyway. If you find yourself in a situation where you need those last miles, you'll have to roll the dice a bit.
Another issue is battery degradation, which there's not going to be a measurable amount yet, but that will be an issue a year or more down the road. I think we can expect 2%-3% reduction in range per 10,000 miles. The higher value if you work the battery hard (leaving the car with 100% charges, numerous DC quick charges that heat up the battery, high ambient heat that heats the battery, and running the battery to low energy levels regularly).
City driving can only be logically derived from average miles/kWh. My typical suburban southern California, non-freeway driving is about 4.5 m/kWh, so I'll use that for most of my planning. I'll adjust that for conditions that are not normal to me, and unfortunately, it will be tough for you to judge without a little seat time in your car to determine what's normal.
So, here's the composite part of using the chart. Let's say I'm planning a 90 mile trip. 10 miles will be suburban driving to the freeway, then 70 miles of freeway at 60 mph, and finally 10 miles of heavy city stop on go on a Friday evening before a national holiday.
For the first 10 miles, I'll use 4.5m/kWh.
For the next 70 miles, 3.9
For the last 10 miles, I'll use 3.0
So, here's the relatively simple [edited] math:
Code:
10 miles / 4.5 = 2.22 kWh
70 miles / 3.9 = 17.95 kWh
10 miles / 3.0 = 3.33 kWh
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90 miles total / 23.50 kWh = 3.829 kWh average
Can I make it? No, because a 3.8-ish m/kWh average will take me about 80 miles. Also, the total used of 23.50 kWh exceeds the 21-ish kWh usable battery capacity.
Could I make it?
Yes, if I slow down to 43 mph (not recommended, but instructive here) on the freeway.
Now I have:
Code:
10 miles / 4.5 = 2.22 kWh
70 miles / 5.2 = 13.46 kWh
10 miles / 3.0 = 3.33 kWh
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90 miles total / 19.01 kWh = 4.73 kWh average
90 miles total now equals a 4.73 m/kWh average, or almost a 100 mile range on level ground. Yes, we can make 90 miles, with almost a 10 mile reserve. Also, 19.01 is significantly below 21 usable.
Easy money, and easy math when done correctly.