For that matter, most auto parts stores will do a free load test. A second opinion may be in order.
Marktm said:Continued confirmation that the charge algorithm is woefully short of good battery maintenance.
lorenfb said:That is for your vehicle and battery.
QueenBee said:So pluging in my 12 volt charger is kind of a pain. My OpenEVSE has a cordset that has the extra wire for proximity. I'm thinking if I extend a 12 volt cable to the charge hatch. Then rewire the proximity wire in the handle with a 12 volt pigtail that'll plug in to the connector now under the hatch. Then on the EVSE side connect the proximity wire to another pigtail that I can plug my 12 volt charger into. Then I can charge the 12 volt battery by simply connecting the pigtail on the handle and hatch when I'm plugging in to charge.
What do you all think?
Marktm said:QueenBee said:So pluging in my 12 volt charger is kind of a pain. My OpenEVSE has a cordset that has the extra wire for proximity. I'm thinking if I extend a 12 volt cable to the charge hatch. Then rewire the proximity wire in the handle with a 12 volt pigtail that'll plug in to the connector now under the hatch. Then on the EVSE side connect the proximity wire to another pigtail that I can plug my 12 volt charger into. Then I can charge the 12 volt battery by simply connecting the pigtail on the handle and hatch when I'm plugging in to charge.
What do you all think?
QueenBee;
Not too sure if I get the "jist" of what you are asking - but off the top, some things to check;
1. Is the proximity wiring capable of handling the current of your charger? (could be OK with a trickle type)
2. Is there a common DC (12 volt system) ground already established to complete the circuit since you have only one of the two wires required for a DC circuit? I have an OE also, but don't recall if the J1772 established a common ground with the 12 volt system - or if you'd want to use it if so since it may be used for "signalling" with voltage spikes potentially interfering.
Bottom line, if these is some way to do this with the OE supplied plug/wiring (I too have the extra wire), I'd be interested.
QueenBee said:So pluging in my 12 volt charger is kind of a pain. My OpenEVSE has a cordset that has the extra wire for proximity. I'm thinking if I extend a 12 volt cable to the charge hatch. Then rewire the proximity wire in the handle with a 12 volt pigtail that'll plug in to the connector now under the hatch. Then on the EVSE side connect the proximity wire to another pigtail that I can plug my 12 volt charger into. Then I can charge the 12 volt battery by simply connecting the pigtail on the handle and hatch when I'm plugging in to charge.
BrockWI said:QueenBee said:So pluging in my 12 volt charger is kind of a pain. My OpenEVSE has a cordset that has the extra wire for proximity. I'm thinking if I extend a 12 volt cable to the charge hatch. Then rewire the proximity wire in the handle with a 12 volt pigtail that'll plug in to the connector now under the hatch. Then on the EVSE side connect the proximity wire to another pigtail that I can plug my 12 volt charger into. Then I can charge the 12 volt battery by simply connecting the pigtail on the handle and hatch when I'm plugging in to charge.
This is similar to what I did. I ran the SAE plug to the charging port on the car side. I have a Battery Tender with a 12 foot SAE extension hanging right near the evse line from above. It hangs to just above the floor if I let it go and is just to the left of the garage door. Then I can just swing it over, plug it in at the charge port and its good to go. Then unplug it and let it swing away and it hangs back out of the way. No more opening the hood or cords dragging on the floor.
But it is making me think of simply electrical taping the SAE line to the evse line, then it would be right there as well. But then again I don't always need the 12v line there.
Did you let the car sit for an hour or so without opening the doors (like to pop the hood)? If you took the measurement right after popping the hood, then this is about the voltage I would expect with the car loading the battery.Marktm said:After a couple of days of "normal" driving (one long trip with QC, many short trips and recharges), the battery is right back to ~60% SOC => 12.37 volts.
Marktm said:Update.
Fully charged the 12 volt battery with the ~1 amp desulfator/charger several days ago. "Equalized" at 16 volts for a couple of hours. Battery at near 100 % SOC => 12.8 volts. After a couple of days of "normal" driving (one long trip with QC, many short trips and recharges), the battery is right back to ~60% SOC => 12.37 volts. Seems inherent to the design!
Do the 2015/16 have these same issues?
RegGuheert said:Did you let the car sit for an hour or so without opening the doors (like to pop the hood)? If you took the measurement right after popping the hood, then this is about the voltage I would expect with the car loading the battery.
QueenBee said:BrockWI said:QueenBee said:So pluging in my 12 volt charger is kind of a pain. My OpenEVSE has a cordset that has the extra wire for proximity. I'm thinking if I extend a 12 volt cable to the charge hatch. Then rewire the proximity wire in the handle with a 12 volt pigtail that'll plug in to the connector now under the hatch. Then on the EVSE side connect the proximity wire to another pigtail that I can plug my 12 volt charger into. Then I can charge the 12 volt battery by simply connecting the pigtail on the handle and hatch when I'm plugging in to charge.
This is similar to what I did. I ran the SAE plug to the charging port on the car side. I have a Battery Tender with a 12 foot SAE extension hanging right near the evse line from above. It hangs to just above the floor if I let it go and is just to the left of the garage door. Then I can just swing it over, plug it in at the charge port and its good to go. Then unplug it and let it swing away and it hangs back out of the way. No more opening the hood or cords dragging on the floor.
But it is making me think of simply electrical taping the SAE line to the evse line, then it would be right there as well. But then again I don't always need the 12v line there.
That's a great idea. I think I'll start with that and can move to using the proximity wire later if I like it.
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