Schneider EVSE

[keydiver]

I had mine installed right next to the breaker panel, also. It's just about the driest location in the garage.

That could be the problem, my breaker panel is right up near the garage door. I'll have to make sure the connector stays dry from now on.

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

Ironic that UPS tracking shows my EVSE stuck in Jacksonville, same place the cars sit around waiting to be trucked to the dealer. Apparently Jacksonville has been designated as EV purgatory.

Yesterday when I was drying the rainwater out of the little rubber cap that goes on the EVSE nozzle with my shirt because I was to lazy to go back in for a rag I was thinking how many people there are in the world who aren't going to be up for this yet.

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

I don't have an EV yet, but my Schnieder EVSE is installed. I was moving the cable around trying to figure out where exactly to put the cable hanger and I noticed that the "nozzle" seems to slip (rotate) relative to the cable. Has anyone else seen this? It seems like the handle of the "nozzle" should grip the cable fairly tightly.

Yes, it should be fairly tight. Went in and checked mine. There is only a very small slip that is barely noticeable. Check the L1 EVSE that came with the car for comparison.

Mine arrived yesterday, installing tomorrow. I checked out the twisting you folks were talking about and mine does the same thing, but I noticed it is limited to about 180 degrees of twist unless you really force it, so I'm wondering if this is by design. The cable is so beefy without that little it of pivot in the nozzle would be hard to align. Also note the pivot point is part way up the strain relief.

I was a bit turned off by the stamped metal cord hanger compared to the more stylish molded hanger on the AV unit, but I can picture that plastic one breaking down the line so maybe the metal one is a blessing. The plastic housing itself seems a little cheap too, but it does have knockouts on the top unlike AV, which is a plus for my install. I was also surprised the printed instructions were not included in the box, although not a problem.

 

[iluvmacs]

I don't have an EV yet, but my Schnieder EVSE is installed. I was moving the cable around trying to figure out where exactly to put the cable hanger and I noticed that the "nozzle" seems to slip (rotate) relative to the cable. Has anyone else seen this? It seems like the handle of the "nozzle" should grip the cable fairly tightly.

Yes, it should be fairly tight. Went in and checked mine. There is only a very small slip that is barely noticeable. Check the L1 EVSE that came with the car for comparison.

Mine arrived yesterday, installing tomorrow. I checked out the twisting you folks were talking about and mine does the same thing, but I noticed it is limited to about 180 degrees of twist unless you really force it, so I'm wondering if this is by design. The cable is so beefy without that little it of pivot in the nozzle would be hard to align. Also note the pivot point is part way up the strain relief.

I was a bit turned off by the stamped metal cord hanger compared to the more stylish molded hanger on the AV unit, but I can picture that plastic one breaking down the line so maybe the metal one is a blessing. The plastic housing itself seems a little cheap too, but it does have knockouts on the top unlike AV, which is a plus for my install. I was also surprised the printed instructions were not included in the box, although not a problem.

Just got mine this week. Same swivel action. I also wish the plastic were of better quality, but I suppose it won't really matter in the end. And yeah, the metal hanger is ugly. But the price is right (well, compared to the competition )

And mine came with printed instructions... yours must have missed that step in packaging!

 

[aqn]

FWIW, while the Schneider's plastic cover appears to be flimsy, I have touched it exactly once since the Schneider was installed four months ago, and I am unlikely to touch it again until the day... well, I can't think of when I would ever not have an EVSE. As such, the cover may as well be made of Faberge eggs and it would made no difference to me!

Re. the "crude" cable bracket: now that I've used the thing for a while, I think it's far more useful than the AV's better looking charge gun cradle, because the bulky/hard-to-handle part is the cable, not the gun, and I can't imagine what I would do if I have a nice gun cradle but nothing to deal with the 15' of 3/4" cable!

 

[pjoseph]

Schneider's explanation was that ground faults are tripping the unit (working as designed).

A quick follow-up. At this point, the problem appears to be with the car's charger and not the Schneider EVSE.

Started a new thread for this. L2 not charging. L1 ok

 

[mckemie]

Started a new thread for this. L2 not charging. L1 ok

Read that, thanks for the direction. Two thoughts here:
1) I guess you do not have an upgraded Panasonic? Else, you would have reported the results of attempted 240v charging with it.
2) This is likely a problem associated with the J1772 crap. A problem you would not have it we could just plug in. Like a RV. Instead, we are forced to pay $800 to $2000 for a complex and troublesome extension cord. :-(

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

A problem you would not have it we could just plug in. Like a RV. Instead, we are forced to pay $800 to $2000 for a complex and troublesome extension cord. :-(

Most (but admittedly not all) RVs have their shore power cords hardwired, so you aren't walking through a puddle carrying a live extension cord. There is nothing to prevent arcing during connection and disconnection. There is nothing in the RV that throttles the load to match what the campground outlet can supply, resulting in many tripped breakers. Often they don't even have GFIs.

The founding fathers were clearly looking for something safer and more idiot proof.

 

[smkettner]

A problem you would not have it we could just plug in. Like a RV. Instead, we are forced to pay $800 to $2000 for a complex and troublesome extension cord. :-(

Most (but admittedly not all) RVs have their shore power cords hardwired, so you aren't walking through a puddle carrying a live extension cord. There is nothing to prevent arcing during connection and disconnection. There is nothing in the RV that throttles the load to match what the campground outlet can supply, resulting in many tripped breakers. Often they don't even have GFIs.

The founding fathers were clearly looking for something safer and more idiot proof.

The cord is attached to the RV so you are right it is not live. Just as EV cord attached to the EV would not be live. I have plugged in plenty of times standing in the rain.

RV cord is either NEMA 14-50 or NEMA 30-TT and if plugged into same all is rated correctly. Yes if an adapter is used you would need to adjust accordingly. Leaf already does this with max 12a 120v and 16a 240v.

Yes with an RV there could be substantial load when engaged. Leaf already solves this issue as charging power ramps up quickly after the pilot signal is read. This would work same with a standard EV cord drawing low current for a few seconds before power quickly ramped up. Yes you should then stop charging before you unplug, same as when using the vacuum.

Otherwise it is no different than any other extension cord.

Anyway the J plug is here until even that is taken away with wireless charging

 

[mckemie]

Most (but admittedly not all) RVs have their shore power cords hardwired, so you aren't walking through a puddle carrying a live extension cord. There is nothing to prevent arcing during connection and disconnection. There is nothing in the RV that throttles the load to match what the campground outlet can supply, resulting in many tripped breakers. Often they don't even have GFIs.

I had my first RV park charging experience a few weeks ago. I had a ~240 mile trip to do. With the Leaf, it would have taken two charging stops. With my 150+ mile conversion, one charge stop was enough. The RV park, which I presume is typical, had several GFI outlets along with breakers in weather proof boxes at each stall. RVs do no typically hook a hot extension to the RV; they hook the cord from the RV to the outlet in the box. Trip the typically 50 amp breaker? Figure out what went wrong and reset it.

I am equipped to charge the Leaf at RV parks (with an upgraded Panasonic, also my Schneider has a plug) but have not yet done it.

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

I don't know whose idea it was to put the cord on the power source rather than have it attached to the car like an RV. Having it on the car side might well have simplified matters, and maybe even solved the problem of thieves stealing the cables for the copper, although then they would likely just cut the cord off your car :x An inhibitor to having the cord on the car is that a compartment to stow 20' of 10/3 cable or a mechanism to pay out the cable like they have on yachts and high end RVs takes considerable space.

 

[redLEAF]

First day with the Schneider EVSE and works as designed, that cord is really heavy but appears that it is designed for the long term, have it positioned so it doesn't drag on the floor while the car is charging. Like the metal holder as its quite sturdy and will not pull away from the wall when you roll out the cable to the car. Much better design than a similar plastic one IMHO. Plan to also add positive feedback on Home Depot's site where I bought it months ago --

 

[Kwood]

It is just #8 wire so it would be 8/2 that gets pulled. I really want the 14-50 to stay as I use it to power my RV while preparing or returning so it looks like I will have to go with the cord on the EVSE.

Thanks for your help on this. You have saved me the hassle and dissapointment of dragging my electrician out.

I cant tell from the installation instructions if this is fed by 8/2 or 8/3 wire. Can someone enlighten me on this while I'm waiting for my Evlink to come?

Many thanks.

Ken

 

[mitch672]

It is just #8 wire so it would be 8/2 that gets pulled. I really want the 14-50 to stay as I use it to power my RV while preparing or returning so it looks like I will have to go with the cord on the EVSE.

Thanks for your help on this. You have saved me the hassle and dissapointment of dragging my electrician out.

I cant tell from the installation instructions if this is fed by 8/2 or 8/3 wire. Can someone enlighten me on this while I'm waiting for my Evlink to come?

Many thanks.

Ken

Ken, it takes 2 hots and a ground (no Neutral), if you ate talking about NM cable, that would be referred to as "8/2"

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

I debated whether to put in 8/3 just in case some future EVSE required a neutral. After talking to folks here and seeing none of the EVSEs out there used a neutral I decided to skip it, but wouldn't you know, when I went to HD to get the 8/2 they were out of it, but they had a hunk of 8/3 of the end of a roll the guy said I could have for the same price as the 8/2. So I wound up with a neutral wire after all that seems will never be used.

 

[essaunders]

My electrician opted to run a(n unconnected) neutral. If I ever take the EVSE out I'd put a 14 series outlet in. I can't see why an EVSE would ever need a neutral though.

 

[smkettner]

Now available in some Home Depot stores.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051
Click on the pick-up in store button to check your availability.

Too bad the price had to jump another $100 :|

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

Too bad the price had to jump another $100 :|

Ouch, what's with that? Price increase? Give me a break.

FWIW if you open an HD credit card you can get 10% off your first purchase and take 6-12 months to pay for it without interest, then cancel the card. Some say that might impact your credit rating but I'm a regular Clint Eastwood when it comes to those notions.

 

[keydiver]

Until Schneider resolves the false GFI trip issue I am having, I cannot recommend them to anyone. The data Nissan corporate gave my field techs was pretty damning. Schneider's GFI design is totally different than every other unit they have tested, and the only one having this problem. My unit tripped with 2 other 2012 LEAFs they brought to my house. If they would just filter out the garbage >1 Khz the 5ma trip threshhold wouldn't be such an issue, but the 2 together make it way too touchy, IMO.

 

[redLEAF]

Until Schneider resolves the false GFI trip issue I am having, I cannot recommend them to anyone. The data Nissan corporate gave my field techs was pretty damning. Schneider's GFI design is totally different than every other unit they have tested, and the only one having this problem. My unit tripped with 2 other 2012 LEAFs they brought to my house. If they would just filter out the garbage >1 Khz the 5ma trip threshhold wouldn't be such an issue, but the 2 together make it way too touchy, IMO.

We've used our Schneider EVlink unit w/o fail for close to 4 months to charge almost daily ... we have it hardwired on about a 30' run along the inside garage knee wall through metal conduit; garage is quite deep (tandem 4-car), charger installed mid-way, but of course some exposure to whatever moisture comes in from the cars coming in and out as well as an active sump pump a few feet away in the corner. Reading about false GFI trip issues a few forums do say that some can be quite sensitive. Have to believe a high percentage of Schneider charger users aren't having the same issues you are; however with another recent price increase (at least on the Home Depot site) they may not have the advantage they once had over other alternative EVSE units (we paid only $679 back in Oct '11) at a now non-discount $899 but 28/31 (90%) people on the HD site recommend it. I would have thought pricing would have gone down not up --- with this forums notes on charging in the rain, etc.; still have confidence to plug it in when the car is still wet and/or covered with snow ... no issues at all so would still recommend but try to shop for better pricing.