Phoenix Range Test Results, September 15, 2012

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is this what the EPA did to determine the 73 mile range?

i never drive my LEAF at 64 mph on a regular extended basis. is this the point of your argument that if one looks hard enough they can find flaws? because this is where we diverge.

i was not naive enough to think that i could do whatever i wanted in a limited range EV and the EV would conform to me. its the other way around. i knew going in that there needed to be compromise on my part to make it work.

but let me try it. give me about 6 weeks or so. i will try it and post my results here. i am sure you will be happy with the results
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
is this what the EPA did to determine the 73 mile range?

i never drive my LEAF at 64 mph on a regular extended basis. is this the point of your argument that if one looks hard enough they can find flaws? because this is where we diverge.

i was not naive enough to think that i could do whatever i wanted in a limited range EV and the EV would conform to me. its the other way around. i knew going in that there needed to be compromise on my part to make it work.

but let me try it. give me about 6 weeks or so. i will try it and post my results here. i am sure you will be happy with the results

That's the speed the Phoenix range test was run at.

I'd encourage every one to give it a try, if they have a route convenient route to do so. There will still be some adjustments for temperature, altitude, driving style, etc., but you should get a pretty good idea of how your LEAF stacks up to Tony's not-quite-new one, and the capacity bar loss cars on the Phoenix test.

I'd suggest you try to monitor the recharge also, for another reference point.

I don't have an easy way to try this, unfortunately. No not any level freeways with charging available in the right locations, nearby. And I sure as hell won't make my LEAF ride the "flatbed of shame", to get the results.
 
edatoakrun said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
is this what the EPA did to determine the 73 mile range?

i never drive my LEAF at 64 mph on a regular extended basis. is this the point of your argument that if one looks hard enough they can find flaws? because this is where we diverge.

i was not naive enough to think that i could do whatever i wanted in a limited range EV and the EV would conform to me. its the other way around. i knew going in that there needed to be compromise on my part to make it work.

but let me try it. give me about 6 weeks or so. i will try it and post my results here. i am sure you will be happy with the results

That's the speed the Phoenix range test was run at.

I'd encourage every one to give it a try, if they have a route convenient route to do so. There will still be some adjustments for temperature, altitude, driving style, etc., but you should get a pretty good idea of how your LEAF stacks up to Tony's not-quite-new one, and the capacity bar loss cars on the Phoenix test.

I'd suggest you try to monitor the recharge also, for another reference point.

I don't have an easy way to try this, unfortunately. No not any level freeways with charging available in the right locations, nearby. And I sure as hell won't make my LEAF ride the "flatbed of shame", to get the results.

i know about the Phoenix test but why is it the range must be tested at this? this is not my typical driving pattern nor is it typical driving pattern of the majority in this country. when the EPA determined its range, did it not do it based on a mix of driving? or did they simply plug in some numbers into a calculator to come up with the 73 mile range??

i am guessing its the latter
 
TonyWilliams said:
Dave, I'm not sure what you're asking. Is it why did we use 62mph?


no, i understand why you used "X mph" it was for standardization of the test to increase the validity of the results.

but, the EPA rated 73 miles per charge? how was it determined? is it not "supposed" to be based on a drive cycle where many different driving scenarios are combined?

like city, suburban, and highway driving?


Ed thinks that my 84 miles of driving is not valid unless i am driving a GPS corrected 62 mph. how did this figure come about for use as an official range standard?
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
TonyWilliams said:
Dave, I'm not sure what you're asking. Is it why did we use 62mph?


no, i understand why you used "X mph" it was for standardization of the test to increase the validity of the results.

but, the EPA rated 73 miles per charge? how was it determined? is it not "supposed" to be based on a drive cycle where many different driving scenarios are combined?

like city, suburban, and highway driving?


Ed thinks that my 84 miles of driving is not valid unless i am driving a GPS corrected 62 mph. how did this figure come about for use as an official range standard?

Its not an "official range standard", and IMO, it would have been wiser to run the Phoenix range test in conditions duplicating one of the examples (including speed) that Nissan gave us in its promotional materials. As I've said before, it looks to me like many of the Phoenix range test cars would have met or exceeded those ranges, and all but the runt of the litter, the 59.3 mile LEAF, probably would have come within 10%-15% of what Nissan specified for "new" LEAF range.

But if you wish to compare your range to the the Phoenix results, which is the topic of this thread, you will need to match those conditions, at least the ones that were normalized, like (constant) speed.

Now, if the Phoenix LEAF recharges had been recorded post test, you would be able to drive any speed you like, and just compare your recharge capacity calculation, to any or all of the test cars.

But for some reason, the organizers of the Phoenix test didn't think that data was worth collecting...
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
but, the EPA rated 73 miles per charge? how was it determined? is it not "supposed" to be based on a drive cycle where many different driving scenarios are combined?

like city, suburban, and highway driving?


They run the car on a chassis dynamometer through whatever the cycle parameters are (the parameters just changed for the Tesla Model S test of 265 miles). I'm not sure is the LEAF's 73 mile rating was a the older version before what the Tesla S was tested at, or an older version. The 100 mile range that Nissan advertises isn't even used by EPA anymore (generic fraud, in my opinion, much like not telling Phoenix owners that their degradation data is based on 7500 miles).



Ed thinks that my 84 miles of driving is not valid unless i am driving a GPS corrected 62 mph. how did this figure come about for use as an official range standard?


Well, Ed is in the running for nuttiest MNL poster. Since he's on my block / foe list, I can't comment on his crazy talk anymore (thankfully). Can I interest you in some overpriced tchotchke LEAF junk (that i stole, of course, but dont tell anybody;-) ? Getting really hungry down here in my cardboard box down by the river. :twisted:

But, to be able to compare your 84 miles to my test 84 miles (which your car is fully capable of doing), yes, you would need to be at 64/62mph (Vgps=1000 on the maintenance page of the Nav) with similar or better ambient conditions, PARTICULARLY the battery temperature of about 80F. With 2600ft or higher air density, you'll go slightly over 84 miles, as we would have done in Phoenix.

But, even at 70F, and 1000ft air density, with your mostly level highways in Seattle area, you should get very close to 84 miles. I encourage you to try it. Nissan will happily tow you to a nearest charger when you're done.
 
well, i can tell ya, at that speed i am pretty sure i cannot make 84 miles except on a perfect day. i figured on near 90 "at my speed" during an 80º day which is usually the best for range.

but that speed is generally at 55-60 (constant speed around here is nearly impossible. unlike other peninsula areas, we dont have multiple freeway options

now, dont look at the map because you will think "hey! you got land on 3 sides of you!"

well, actually we dont. if going North, all traffic must funnel thru this peninsula aka known as "the Gap" formed from boundaries if Joint Base Lewis McCord, the Nisqually Indian Reservation and the Nisqually Wildlife Refuge.

I-5 is the only freeway and its about 3 lanes too narrow to handle the traffic which basically means there is no "rush hour" thru here simply because other than about 6-7 hours in the middle of the night, traffic always slows down here.
 
"DaveinOlyWA"

well, i can tell ya, at that speed i am pretty sure i cannot make 84 miles except on a perfect day...

In fact, Tony's own range chart (using speedometer-indicated speeds) compiled from various actual driver reports, IIRC, seems to show this is probably only possible with a very "new" battery, if at all.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293#p101293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

"DaveinOlyWA"

...but that speed is generally at 55-60 (constant speed around here is nearly impossible...

My case also. In fact, the only time I have made long "freeway" trips, such as to the San Francisco Bay area and back, I have avoided constant speed, and looked for (safe and respectful of other drivers) low-speed options, whenever possible, since I didn't have the extra time to waste (on slow L2 recharges) by driving as fast as 62 mph.

But I really don't think constant speed in required for an accurate range test, anyway.

You will see that I have decided to do my range tests on a route where constant speed is impossible. But by matching my travel time closely, both on the trip segments, and at the recorded time and miles driven, of the bar losses and battery warning levels, I believe I have been able to monitor my range over the last year fairly accurately.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=9064" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
edatoakrun said:
"DaveinOlyWA"

well, i can tell ya, at that speed i am pretty sure i cannot make 84 miles except on a perfect day...

In fact, Tony's own range chart (using speedometer-indicated speeds) compiled from various actual driver reports, IIRC, seems to show this is probably only possible with a very "new" battery, if at all.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293#p101293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

"DaveinOlyWA"

...but that speed is generally at 55-60 (constant speed around here is nearly impossible...

My case also. In fact, the only time I have made long "freeway" trips, such as to the San Francisco Bay area and back, I have avoided constant speed, and looked for (safe and respectful of other drivers) low-speed options, whenever possible, since I didn't have the extra time to waste (on slow L2 recharges) by driving as fast as 62 mph.

But I really don't think constant speed in required for an accurate range test, anyway.

You will see that I have decided to do my range tests on a route where constant speed is impossible. But by matching my travel time closely, both on the trip segments, and at the recorded time and miles driven, of the bar losses and battery warning levels, I believe I have been able to monitor my range over the last year fairly accurately.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=9064" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

now my range is my specific scenario.

there is no flat course here unless i find a circle somewhere. i literally cannot drive more than a few miles in any direction without some elevation change. there are plenty of courses with near zero net elevation change but best i can do is a series of hills where my elevation ranges from 75 to 200 feet.

so i am losing something to that. also sea level means more air above pushing down on me which is a few more miles but all i can say is the range drops fast when i get above 60 and 64 on the speedo means a big chunk for me.

facts are; i decide where i need to go and how i need to do it to get there. i have NEVER been stranded or hit turtle unless I intended to. iow, it aint perfect but i knew that and lets face it; so did everyone else

as far as newness?

although i have recently attained a 280, my pack is actually around 275.

when the pack reads higher than 275, those GIDs disappear rapidly telling me that its probably measurement flotsam

each GID should be good for around .3 miles if its less than that initially from a full battery charge then i discount it. only doing this because when i got that 280, i lost 2 GIDs before i left the street i live on which is only a block long.

then continued to lose GIDs every .1 miles until i hit 275, then it leveled out.

so your new battery statement? means ok, i cant hit 84 but i should be able to hit 82...
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
edatoakrun said:
"DaveinOlyWA"

well, i can tell ya, at that speed i am pretty sure i cannot make 84 miles except on a perfect day...

In fact, Tony's own range chart (using speedometer-indicated speeds) compiled from various actual driver reports, IIRC, seems to show this is probably only possible with a very "new" battery, if at all.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293#p101293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

"DaveinOlyWA"

...but that speed is generally at 55-60 (constant speed around here is nearly impossible...

My case also. In fact, the only time I have made long "freeway" trips, such as to the San Francisco Bay area and back, I have avoided constant speed, and looked for (safe and respectful of other drivers) low-speed options, whenever possible, since I didn't have the extra time to waste (on slow L2 recharges) by driving as fast as 62 mph.

But I really don't think constant speed in required for an accurate range test, anyway.

You will see that I have decided to do my range tests on a route where constant speed is impossible. But by matching my travel time closely, both on the trip segments, and at the recorded time and miles driven, of the bar losses and battery warning levels, I believe I have been able to monitor my range over the last year fairly accurately.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=9064" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

now my range is my specific scenario.

there is no flat course here unless i find a circle somewhere. i literally cannot drive more than a few miles in any direction without some elevation change. there are plenty of courses with near zero net elevation change but best i can do is a series of hills where my elevation ranges from 75 to 200 feet.

so i am losing something to that. also sea level means more air above pushing down on me which is a few more miles but all i can say is the range drops fast when i get above 60 and 64 on the speedo means a big chunk for me.

facts are; i decide where i need to go and how i need to do it to get there. i have NEVER been stranded or hit turtle unless I intended to. iow, it aint perfect but i knew that and lets face it; so did everyone else

as far as newness?

although i have recently attained a 280, my pack is actually around 275.

when the pack reads higher than 275, those GIDs disappear rapidly telling me that its probably measurement flotsam

each GID should be good for around .3 miles if its less than that initially from a full battery charge then i discount it. only doing this because when i got that 280, i lost 2 GIDs before i left the street i live on which is only a block long.

then continued to lose GIDs every .1 miles until i hit 275, then it leveled out.

so your new battery statement? means ok, i cant hit 84 but i should be able to hit 82...

Sorry to have to mention this, Dave, but since the Phoenix range test showed great inaccuracy in gid counts predicting range/capacity in hot climate LEAFs, under-predicting actual capacity, range tests in cooler climates might actually show gid count inaccuracy in the other direction, over-predicting actual range and capacity...

It would seem very odd, IMO, If the information Nissan gave TickTock that "Boston" climate LEAFs lost quite a bit of capacity in just the first 6 months of use, did not translate into some significant loss, even in the most moderate climate LEAFs, over the first year or two of use.

Pick a convenient and enjoyable route for the test. IMO, it is most valuable to see changes over time, so make sure you pick a route you will want to repeat in the future.

Have fun!
 
TonyWilliams said:
Yanquetino said:
Oh... and thanks, once again, for attacking and insulting the messenger when you do not like the message. Sorry to have to tell you this, Tony, but people skills are not exactly your forté.
Gosh, I think I'm merely responding to you in a "like" manner and by my measure, deserved manner.
Okay, Tony, now that you have also leveled this very same "like manner" accusation at me over at PlugInCars, I am taking the gloves off. There comes a time when attempts to placate, avoid, even ignore such tactics reach the breaking point, and one has no choice but to stand up to the playground bully. Will I now get the holy **** beat out of me? Yeah, most probably. But I'm fed up with being punched without swinging back.

Your claim that I originally "attacked" and threw "spears" in like manner is false. Whether or not you see it, there is indeed a difference between objecting to, decrying, finding fault with, refuting, criticizing a message... and belittling, demeaning, and insulting the messenger.

Yes, I strongly objected to —and still do, more than ever— the messages those AZ owners broadcast over the KPHO airwaves, which made me groan and wince ("Ouch!").

I also expressed disappoint, many times, in the non-message that Nissan has repeatedly conveyed with its lack of open communcations with its customers.

I was critical of your message that "Nissan appears to be in complete denial at the highest levels."

I especially found fault with your message that its technicians had committed "outright fraud."

I expressed the criticism that, in my opinion, the message your team concluded from the test data was fudged, skewed, and exaggerated.

And yes, I decried your message that Andy Palmer "was wrong about the batteries. It was sheer stupidity to tell this group of owners that the batteries are ok."

As I said, "Those are fighting words." That is, I tried to focus on the words, the messages --not the messenger, the person who uttered them. In point of fact, as you well know, I purposely avoided naming names at first so that the conflict of opinions was on the surface in my analysis --and not the individuals behind the contrary views.

Conversely, what I explicitly did not do was state... that YOU show "continual ignorance," and "can only focus on a kernel of information," and thus what you have to say is "garbage," "your spewage is just that," for such is your "trash piece," written by a "blow hard" who "doesn't even get the basic facts right," because "you've done a great job of making clear your shortcomings in the LEAF knowledge area," but have "no shortcomings in BS," with all the "BS in your piece," you're among "the most obtuse" who "attacked and ridiculed those suffering" and "did nothing to help," but rather "actually worked to interfere with these positive outcomes," and thus... "you know who you are, and so do we."

Yes, Tony, those quotes are your spears, hurled at people --and particularly at me. Your penchant for attacking the messenger is the very reason I hestitated to even post my alternative conclusions.

You did a truly admirable job orchestrating the AZ owners' tests and gathering the data, at great personal sacrifice, no question. But if you cannot recognize that there is a difference between your tit and my tat, I don't know what to tell you.

Maybe I am the only kid in this playground who sees it that way. Could be. But regardless of the numerous mistakes I continue to make in life, I spent far too many years questioning if there was something "wrong" with me, and I refuse to lie down and let a bully kick me in my self-esteem anymore.
 
Personally, I think a better more "repeatable" test could be concocted without driving by using the procedure Nissan outlines in the service manual:

pic


If this is done in similar ambient temps it should be way more repeatable than driving.

If in addition to this, we instrumented the test, it would be extremely accurate. I was thinking about a small portable device that connects to the service plug port and has a calibrated kelvin-connected lab-grade current shunt. This could accurately measure real coulombs in/out of the battery and eliminate any inaccuracies the LBC may be introducing.

But even without any add-on instruments, just a setting a stopwatch until the battery contactor opens would be very revealing.

-Phil
 
Yanquetino said:
Maybe I am the only kid in this playground who sees it that way. Could be. But regardless of the numerous mistakes I continue to make in life, I spent far too many years questioning if there was something "wrong" with me, and I refuse to lie down and let a bully kick me in my self-esteem anymore.
Mark, I've noticed that you were scrutinizing this thread all morning, and that prompted me to get back to what I promised to you: a response. It's coming, but I want it to be well-articulated. I might even put it on my own blog for everyone to see. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and I appreciate yours. What worries me a bit is that there seems to be a disconnect, and given your background as EV advocate, you might be bit of a selective listener. I'm for EVs too, but I'm an engineer first, and an advocate second. My main objective is that these things work for their owners well, and exceed their expectations.

You appear to be quite experienced with online media, and I would caution you not to take everything that's said here too seriously. It's easy to misinterpret. That said, I too was offended by the tone and voice of your original post. I had to step back and try to understand where you were coming from to be able to reach out to you. I suggest that you did the same. Despite our disagreements, I'm sure that we all mean well, and would like to see more electrified cars on the road, and not less.
1
 
surfingslovak said:
I too was offended by the tone and voice of your original post. I had to step back and try to understand where you were coming from to be able to reach out to you. I suggest that you did the same. Despite our disagreements, I'm sure that we all mean well, and would like to see more electrified cars on the road, and not less.
Hi, George: Yes, I understand, and will be the first to admit that my enthusiasm can turn acerbic, depending upon the topic and extent of the controversy. For example, I most certainly came down that way --and still do-- on VSP, on AB475, on the FrankenPlug, on NRG, on the many times Nissan has dropped the ball by not communicating with its customers, particularly those who were on its waiting list for years. I do try, however, not to directly belittle individuals as though they lacked brainpower or talents or common sense. As I said elsewhere, I appreciate how you have approached our different conclusions, and look forward to your posts!
 
Ingineer said:
Personally, I think a better more "repeatable" test could be concocted without driving by using the procedure Nissan outlines in the service manual:

pic


If this is done in similar ambient temps it should be way more repeatable than driving.

If in addition to this, we instrumented the test, it would be extremely accurate. I was thinking about a small portable device that connects to the service plug port and has a calibrated kelvin-connected lab-grade current shunt. This could accurately measure real coulombs in/out of the battery and eliminate any inaccuracies the LBC may be introducing.

But even without any add-on instruments, just a setting a stopwatch until the battery contactor opens would be very revealing.
-Phil

I have discharged the battery from within VLBW to Turtle or Shutdown by running either the A/C or heater on full in the driveway. My experience has been that the power input to either the A/C or heater is modulated by the HVAC controls. The heater is likely more consistent than the A/C, but its input power varies between say 3 and 5 kW with the fan on high and temperature setting at 90F. The test you propose would be extremely accurate if there is a way to hold the heater power constant, perhaps via commands issued through the CAN bus.

Edited to add: I found the battery discharge method referenced by Phil on page EVB-144 of the April 2011 revision of the service manual. It is shown as a method to discharge the traction battery if the charge level is too high for other diagnostics outlined in that section of the manual. I did not find a reference for using discharge time to determine capacity.

Gerry
 
Ingineer said:
Personally, I think a better more "repeatable" test could be concocted without driving by using the procedure Nissan outlines in the service manual: ...
Please reference the Service Manual Page/Page# found at the bottom center of every page.
 
The first Wiki draft summarizing the Arizona range test results is here:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/wiki/index.php?title=Battery_Capacity_Loss#Range_Test_on_Cars_with_Battery_Capacity_Loss" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have done some calculations/graphing that I hope will make the relationships between the data clearer.

As always, feel free to offer comments, criticisms, corrections (or make the changes yourself).
 
Stoaty said:
The first Wiki draft summarizing the Arizona range test results is here:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/wiki/index.php?title=Battery_Capacity_Loss#Range_Test_on_Cars_with_Battery_Capacity_Loss" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have done some calculations/graphing that I hope will make the relationships between the data clearer.

As always, feel free to offer comments, criticisms, corrections (or make the changes yourself).

Thanks for putting this together.

I think the most useful addition would be month of manufacture and date of delivery, if you have that for most or all of the tests cars.

I realize this would be a lot of data to present on a single chart, but I would find it much easier to compare data from the three charts, if the cars were listed in the same order, on all three, if that's not too much trouble.
 
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