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Some 30A portable OpenEVSEs I am building, the module fits in the clear top NEMA enclosure I used on my original 30A portable OpenEVSE. The toggle switch on the upper left allows the ground to be removed from the Advanced Power supply L1/L2 detection circuit (which basically disables it), as GFCI outlets usually trip if its left enabled.. With the toggle switch, you can enable/disable it.

http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/EVSE_by_mwolrich" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

73F6CED7-6385-46EC-951F-B3AA05A456E2-161-000000B34CB90AB3.jpg
 
If you are showing off your EVSEs, Here is the one I made for work. The vector board is the L1,L2 sense board.

WorkEVSE.jpg
 
I sure like your yellow/black display better than the RGB one I used - It's much easier to read. The RGB isn't really needed anyway because the LED on the board lights up to tell you what state the EVSE is in . . . . assuming of course you can see the LED when the enclosure is all buttoned up

Don
 
That is a RGB display. Just one with a black filter for better contrast. I replaced the stock Adafruit one. It is showing yellow because it was plugged in and done charging.
 
GlennD said:
That is a RGB display. Just one with a black filter for better contrast. I replaced the stock Adafruit one. It is showing yellow because it was plugged in and done charging.

Glenn, Where did you get the filter from? I also notice the LCDs response it a bit slow in my unheated garage, but it still works...
 
mitch672 said:
The toggle switch on the upper left allows the ground to be removed from the Advanced Power supply L1/L2 detection circuit (which basically disables it), as GFCI outlets usually trip if its left enabled.. With the toggle switch, you can enable/disable it.
Hrm, could you expand on this? I don't think I've seen this mentioned before. That seems like a pretty important addition.
 
chris1howell said:
garygid said:
Can we order some of these noise-reducing ferrite
"tubes" (cores) for our construction at the workshop?

As shown in the picture above it would appear that
these two ferrite cores might keep some of the noise
generated by the car from getting back into the house?

If one knows the right source, hopefully they are not
too expensive to consider adding.

Is there a link to the source, please?

I have a bunch of these cores, those who would like to add them are welcome to do so.
If you have plenty, I would like 2 ferrite cores as well. I have asked 91040 to pick up what parts you have for me on Saturday. Thanks.
 
QueenBee said:
mitch672 said:
The toggle switch on the upper left allows the ground to be removed from the Advanced Power supply L1/L2 detection circuit (which basically disables it), as GFCI outlets usually trip if its left enabled.. With the toggle switch, you can enable/disable it.
Hrm, could you expand on this? I don't think I've seen this mentioned before. That seems like a pretty important addition.

I designed it myself :). The "Advanced Power Supply" Level 1/Level 2 sensing works via sampling the AC inputs on the output of the relay (connected in parallel to the J-1772 wiring), so there are 2 hots and a ground input. The ground is isolated from all other grounds on the PCB, so you have to provide the ground as an input. I simply put an SPST switch from ground to the ground input on the sense circuit, when it's "open", no current can flow into the MID400 AC detection optoisolators, so you can't trip a GFCI outlet. It's as simple as that... If you have a 120V circuit without GFCI you can leave it on, or on a 240V circuit,, leave it on, it will autodetect properly.. However, if all you have availble is a 120V GFCI protected circuit, your probably going to have to disable the L1/L2 detect circuit, as it trips most GFCI outlets I've tried.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150826420761?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For good yellow the red resistor needs to be changed to 100 ohms. The contrast setting is also different.
 
Leviton has a 30A J1772 cable set for $107 before taxes this week. Please use cyberlev for 20% off at checkout. Shipping is marked down to zero as part of the promo as well.
Thanks for reporting the sale! I ordered two.
 
Anderson Power Pole connectors arrived today, 1 set installed on the 30A portable OpenEVSE

disconnect order, controlled by J-1772 wire length:

shortest wire: Pilot (#14 Orange)
medium length: 120V Hot (#10 Black)
medium length: 120V Hot (#10 Red)
longest wire: Ground (#10 Green)

51A888E5-2011-404E-A8F9-FF54099C82C6-2596-0000012B289AEAFE.jpg
 
I do not like Anderson Power poles. I know they are the defacto amateur radio standard but my experiences are not good.

Years ago I maintained a fleet of Johnson high power mobile radios that used the larger version for the power connector. There was constant intermittent power problems.

A while back I purchased a used Kenwood dual band radio that someone converted to power poles. Every once in a while the transmit would become erratic. Unplugging and plugging the connector so the wiping action would clean the contacts would fix it for a while. The problem always came back after a few months.
 
garygid said:
Chris,
What do you want each EVSE-Building person to bring
to your workshop next Saturday (1 Dec)?

What are optional things for them to bring if they have it?

What things do you want us to locate and bring for you?

Do you need help setting anything up?

Do we need chairs?

Cheers, Gary

Tools to bring if you have them:
Soldering station, solder, shrink wrap
Screw Drivers Phillips 00, 2 and a flat
wire cutters / stripper / crimper
Multimeter

Supplies to bring if you have them:
heat shrink tube various sizes
Solid hookup wire (black, red, green) gauge rating >= 250v + 1A

I will bring lots of tools, a hand drill, bits, step drills, small Oscope

We will need small drill press (Garygid?) step drill up to 1 1/2" if possible.
 
chris1howell said:
garygid said:
Chris,
What do you want each EVSE-Building person to bring
to your workshop next Saturday (1 Dec)?

Cheers, Gary

Tools to bring if you have them:
Soldering station, solder, shrink wrap
Screw Drivers Phillips 00, 2 and a flat
wire cutters / stripper / crimper
Multimeter

Supplies to bring if you have them:
heat shrink tube various sizes
Solid hookup wire (black, red, green) gauge rating >= 250v + 1A

I will bring lots of tools, a hand drill, bits, step drills, small Oscope

We will need small drill press (Garygid?) step drill up to 1 1/2" if possible.
I have soldering station, small vise, some step drills (but not as large as 1.5 in),
Stripper, crimper,
if 91040 or someone else wants to stop by Claremont to pick them up.
 
I will try to see what I have and can manage to bring.
Not tonight, but tomorrow (Thursday) evening, then
load up on Friday evening.

What needs a 1.25 inch hole, fitting for the 70 amp cables?
Drilled in the plastic box, I suspect, right?
 
garygid said:
I will try to see what I have and can manage to bring.
Not tonight, but tomorrow (Thursday) evening, then
load up on Friday evening.

What needs a 1.25 inch hole, fitting for the 70 amp cables?
Drilled in the plastic box, I suspect, right?

Most of the gland nuts / strain reliefs are 1" trade size, which takes a 11/4" hole to mount them.
I use a few progressively larger step drills to get it done... Just finished one tonight, I actually had to trim off some if the plastic thread on the bushings, because the clearances are so tight.

Close up, you can see where I had to trim the threads on the gland nuts:

5F57F635-012C-4622-850B-65958269F84D-2596-00000162EE566A13.jpg


Being tested on my quick 220 on the kitchen floor:

41A432B6-FD31-4ECF-960F-9FBF4586E58A-2596-00000162F1794652.jpg
 
I found a step-drill that includes 1.25 inches, which I will bring,
along with a couple of others for smaller diameter.
Max diameter is 1 3/8 inches.

I am planning to bring the drill press, and an electric hand drill.

And, a box of metal drills.

Are many of the LED boards constructed?
 
51 photos from today's OpenEVSE workshop. Thanks to Gary for planning these HTB gatherings (this was my first), and to Chris for setting up the workshop. It was very educational.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kf6oak/sets/72157632146039517/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Feel free to use these photos in any way.

8236846504_46c46f1c5d.jpg
 
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