Nissan's Included L1 (120v) EVSE

[Halforc]

Man when I changed out my extension cord, i saw that my old extension cord was partially burnt/melted because of the heat from the EVSE plug. Has this happened to anybody?

Although the EVSE pigtail is minorly burnt it still works fine without issues, just my extension cord is melted on one slit.

 

[davewill]

Or, would these work:
1. put a wrap of electrical tape around the plug end?
2. put a band of black shrink-wrap on the plug end?

Yes, but if you don't know about it, you could get caught out...Also if you have the choice, best to simply buy another sort in the first place.

 

[Ingineer]

Man when I changed out my extension cord, i saw that my old extension cord was partially burnt/melted because of the heat from the EVSE plug. Has this happened to anybody?

Although the EVSE pigtail is minorly burnt it still works fine without issues, just my extension cord is melted on one slit.

This comes from cheap (Chinese) extension cords that aren't up to the task. This is why Nissan, and myself, have a blanket "NO" on all extension cord use without the specific approval of a qualified electrician. You could easily start a fire, and this would be especially bad if done in public while you were not present. You could be liable for extensive damages!

The only cords I can safely recommend for use with your upgraded EVSE are the Powerfig 25' and 50' L6-20 cords that are using high-quality molded ends and decent 12AWG cable. I do not recommend you use a cord with the non-upgraded stock unit until you consult with a qualified electrician.

-Phil

 

[Halforc]

Man when I changed out my extension cord, i saw that my old extension cord was partially burnt/melted because of the heat from the EVSE plug. Has this happened to anybody?

Although the EVSE pigtail is minorly burnt it still works fine without issues, just my extension cord is melted on one slit.

This comes from cheap (Chinese) extension cords that aren't up to the task. This is why Nissan, and myself, have a blanket "NO" on all extension cord use without the specific approval of a qualified electrician. You could easily start a fire, and this would be especially bad if done in public while you were not present. You could be liable for extensive damages!

The only cords I can safely recommend for use with your upgraded EVSE are the Powerfig 25' and 50' L6-20 cords that are using high-quality molded ends and decent 12AWG cable. I do not recommend you use a cord with the non-upgraded stock unit until you consult with a qualified electrician.

-Phil

Hey Phil,

Is there any L1 extension cords that you do recommend then?

 

[Ingineer]

Hey Phil,

Is there any L1 extension cords that you do recommend then?

Sorry, I can't comment on anything I haven't personally inspected. I have no use for 120v only cords, as I always use my upgraded unit. I've also noticed that you can't say get the $25 at Home Depot, as they carry different things at different stores.

If you have a qualified electrician or Electrical Engineer inspect your particular cord, please let everyone know here, along with the manufacturer, model, and even a picture would be useful to others.

-Phil

 

[BRBarian]

Is there any L1 extension cords that you do recommend then?

1. No one in their right mind would buy an expensive cord at either Home Depot or Lowes.
Besides that fact that both companies are pure evil (from a political perspective),
they both sell low quality crap for way too much money.

2. You want a good SJTW (or SOOW or SJOOW) cord with a minimum gauge of #10/3.
Avoid #12/3 cables since (at 20A) they will generate about 30 watts of heat and result in a voltage drop of 1.5 VAC (added in edit: numbers are for 50' on a per conductor basis -- double for complete cycle, double again for 100').

3. Stay away from cords with multiple receptacles. No 3way cords... just asking for trouble.

I bought of pair of cords like this for $50 including shipping (but from a different seller):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Century-Wire-50-SJTW-Pro-Style-Cord-10-3AWG-Orange-Lighted-Extension-Cord-/150750567228" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You wont find this at Lowes nor at HD (and nothing like it there for $50).

 

[Ingineer]

2. You want a good SJTW (or SOOW or SJOOW) cord with a minimum gauge of #10/3.
Avoid #12/3 cables since (at 20A) they will generate about 30 watts of heat and result in a voltage drop of 1.5 VAC.

I do not agree with this, on 120V the EVSE can only pull up to 12A. This isn't even 1% for 12AWG for a 25' (typical) cord, so 10AWG is way overkill, and in fact, may be heavy enough to pull the cord right out of the outlet! The Upgraded EVSE will up to about 16A on 240v, so even this load is fine for an extension.

If you think that 10awg is needed, you'd better stop using the EVSE, as it's only 12AWG. If you have a GM EVSE (or LeGrand) it's only 16awg! (this I think I'd stop using!)

 

[BRBarian]

My numbers were for a 50' cord. I agree that #12/3 is OK for short cords.
For anything longer (in the 50' to 100' range) stick with #10/3.

 

[smkettner]

I only have V1 12a upgrade and it has run fine on 100' of #12 extension at 120v and 240v for many hours.

 

[BRBarian]

I only have V1 12a upgrade and it has run fine on 100' of #12 extension at 120v and 240v for many hours.

And for every one of those hours, you've wasted 50 Watts of power and suffered a loss of 4 volts.

 

[smkettner]

And what would the loss be with #10?

 

[BRBarian]

And what would the loss be with #10?

About 60% of that.

 

[Nubo]

I only have V1 12a upgrade and it has run fine on 100' of #12 extension at 120v and 240v for many hours.

People tend to stack inefficiencies. If a goodly length of that cord is left tightly coiled, heat can build up. If the coil is left in the sun on a hot day, resistance increases, etc... things can get interesting.

I went through a number of electric yard tools before learning about voltage drop. Causes them to work too hard and burn out prematurely. To deal with our yard I need a 100 foot length. When I got a 10 amp weed eater I did a little research and decided to invest in a 100' #10 cord. Expensive and heavy but quite a noticeable difference in performance. It's actually more powerful than my old gasoline model. I notice a big difference with the hedge cutters too.

 

[smkettner]

And what would the loss be with #10?

About 60% of that.

So I loose 50 watts with #12 and 30 watts with #10. So the margin is really 20 watts. I will stick with #12.

 

[DaveEV]

For L1 charging extension cord, is this good?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202531240/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=rigid%20520840" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;\&storeId=10051

Yes, but those cords are rigid, no pun intended. Get a softer 12/3 cord, they are easier to manage and deal with . Really.

I like the light that tells its working for the rigid, but how about this?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100661446/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=husky+12+guage+cord&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202891135" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The more expensive lighted, orange, Rigid cord is much better than the cheaper red cord. Much more flexible and has better quality plugs. The light is useful, too.

I originally bought the red one myself but returned it for the orange one.

 

[Nubo]

The more expensive lighted, orange, Rigid cord is much better than the cheaper red cord. Much more flexible and has better quality plugs. The light is useful, too.

I originally bought the red one myself but returned it for the orange one.

Rigid makes good tools. And good calendars

 

[toasty]

Man when I changed out my extension cord, i saw that my old extension cord was partially burnt/melted because of the heat from the EVSE plug. Has this happened to anybody?

Although the EVSE pigtail is minorly burnt it still works fine without issues, just my extension cord is melted on one slit.

this happened to many orginal volt chargers..

 

[gbarry42]

The only cords I can safely recommend for use with your upgraded EVSE are the Powerfig 25' and 50' L6-20 cords that are using high-quality molded ends and decent 12AWG cable.
[ ... ]
If you have a qualified electrician or Electrical Engineer inspect your particular cord, please let everyone know here, along with the manufacturer, model, and even a picture would be useful to others.

Well, with half of us being EE's, in theory we could inspect a prospective cord. But, what can you tell about it if it's molded? Or do we buy two, and hack one apart to find out?

 

[Nubo]

The only cords I can safely recommend for use with your upgraded EVSE are the Powerfig 25' and 50' L6-20 cords that are using high-quality molded ends and decent 12AWG cable.
[ ... ]
If you have a qualified electrician or Electrical Engineer inspect your particular cord, please let everyone know here, along with the manufacturer, model, and even a picture would be useful to others.

Well, with half of us being EE's, in theory we could inspect a prospective cord. But, what can you tell about it if it's molded? Or do we buy two, and hack one apart to find out?

Maybe not a bad idea to replace the ends with commercial or industrial-grade plugs and sockets?

 

[Deleted member 3147]

I just built my own L6-20 extension cord. My local Home Depot store sells 12/3 appliance cord by the foot and good quality plugs and receptacles. They are designed for easy easy assembly. The lugs are nicely designed: you put the stripped end of the wire into the correct hole and tighten down a screw which clamps the wire between two metal plates for good contact and the ground lug is colored green for easy identification.

I carefully monitored the cord the first time I used it: the cord itself gets slightly worm but the plug and receptacle stay nice and cool.