Leaf rear ended. Ins totalling

[hackdroot]

So my leaf was rear ended at a traffic signal. Dropped it off at the local auto body and got a call back after a few days stating that they got approval to repair at ~$4500 from the other drivers ins company.

After a few more days I received a call from insurance total loss department stating they were going to total it and didn't know anything about the approval. Apparently someone got their wires crossed since BOTH vehicles involved in the crash were dropped off at the same auto body shop. Since then, can't reach anyone at the insurance company and they don't return my calls. The auto shop was contacted however and told they would be reimbursed for any work done and restocking fees. The shop contacted me and asked me to pick the vehicle today. They reattached the bumper cover(?) and did some small repairs, but could not get the bumper back on due to the damage. They stated that the vehicle was safe to drive and none of the electrical components or drivetrain were damaged. Just the bumper mounting area and gate.

The gate does close and lock, but has enough small play that it throws a yellow /!\ when stopped and red /!\ when moving on the tail gate closure sensor.

Unsure what to do with this vehicle now. Last time I spoke to the ins company, they offered a sum to total & they recover the vehicle, and a smaller sum to total and I keep the vehicle. Neither option provides enough to pay off the note AND buy another leaf. :\

80k miles
10 bars

 

[GerryAZ]

Since the crash was the other driver's fault, try to negotiate either full repair or a better settlement from the other driver's insurance company. If you have collision coverage, you can talk to your insurance company to see if they will give you a better offer and they can deal with the other company. I went through this with my 2011 back in early 2015 and had to negotiate hard (about 6 weeks of back and forth by phone and in writing) before I got anywhere close to what my car was worth before the crash. At one point, I told the other driver's insurance company that their offers were ridiculous and asked them to find a similar car and deliver it to me (which they refused to do). When I asked my insurance company for an appraisal as a second opinion, their numbers came in lower so I had no choice but to continue my fight with the other driver's insurance company. I later discovered that my car was further damaged while at the insurance company storage yard which led to the lower appraisal by my insurance company (and ended my consideration of buying it back to convert to a small flatbed pickup).

In your case, the damage looks insufficient to justify the apparent decision to total it although appraised value may not be significantly higher than the repair estimate (based upon age and mileage). You will need to decide whether to keep the car and take the low settlement or fight with the insurance company for a reasonable settlement and let them keep the car. Unfortunately, you will likely lose money because of this crash that was not your fault regardless which route you take. Keep in mind, Nissan warranties are void if a car is declared (or has sufficient damage that it should have been declared) a total loss so your remaining battery warranty coverage will end unless it is repaired without being totaled.

 

[Steelcity]

Sorry to hear, and I assume both parties are not hurt . What year is your leaf, and whats the offers? In the spring/summer you could find 5 to 7 year old leaf for 7k with 10 or 11 bars. Not sure whats out there now. Good luck.

 

[cwerdna]

^^^
Unless he added it after your post, it's in his sig.

That's a bummer about the OP's situation.

If the OP wants to buy a replacement Leaf, unfortunately my '13 is an SV w/premium so it doesn't have CHAdeMO nor LED headlights (which the OP's car has). Also, no leather since that's a '13 to '17 SL thing. I have about 68.2K miles am still at 11 bars with SOH of 79.xx%. There's no way I can fetch $7K for mine and I've been wanting to sell for awhile (long story).

At least we're both in the Bay Area.

 

[SageBrush]

Neither option provides enough to pay off the note AND buy another leaf. :\

Who wudda thunk ?
'Making you whole' means getting you back to where you were before the accident, which in your case is an undamaged LEAF with a lien.

As an aside, I cannot imagine it being too hard to fool the sensor that monitors the hatch closure. If you don't mind the cosmetic damage, you just made out like a bandit. And you can always pay a couple hundred dollars to have the dent improved. PDR can do pretty excellent (although perhaps not 100%) cosmetic improvement.

 

[goldbrick]

It's impossible to tell how much damage is under the plastic bumper cover but I'd try to find another shop and ask if they can find a used hatch and make that work somehow. I'd certainly keep that car if it was mine as long as the hatch could be made to open/shut without leaking.

 

[hackdroot]

I wouldn't mind keeping the car if, as you said, the gate could be made to close securely. Also not sure if it's safe to drive with that bumper piece missing as well. My leaf had every option available, so finding an equiv model right now for what I am being offered is not happening. I think they said ~$6600 if they took the car and ~$3800 if I kept it. ~$4000 still left on the note.

I don't drive it as my wife uses it now and I'm shopping for a used 2017 Model S or 3 for my driving needs

 

[GerryAZ]

The crash energy-absorbing capability is somewhat compromised with the rear bumper structural support removed. If you were to look inside the bumper cover, you would likely see compressed styrofoam (unless the shop completely removed it). Since the rear of the body (other than the hatch) does not appear to be compressed, the reduction in energy-absorbing capability may be minimal so replacing or repairing the hatch may be a reasonable repair approach. You really need to look at the attachments for the bumper structural support to see if there is damage transferred to the body structure. If there is no structural damage, then you may be able to replace the bumper structure support and styrofoam along with the hatch to make a complete repair.

If similar cars are selling for more than $6, 600 in your area, then it might be worth arguing with the insurance company for a better settlement.
You will probably have to turn over the $3,800 dollar check to the finance company to pay down the loan (unless you can convince them that the car is still worth more than the outstanding loan balance) because the insurance company will make the check out to both you and the finance company.

 

[hackdroot]

The crash energy-absorbing capability is somewhat compromised with the rear bumper structural support removed. If you were to look inside the bumper cover, you would likely see compressed styrofoam (unless the shop completely removed it). Since the rear of the body (other than the hatch) does not appear to be compressed, the reduction in energy-absorbing capability may be minimal so replacing or repairing the hatch may be a reasonable repair approach. You really need to look at the attachments for the bumper structural support to see if there is damage transferred to the body structure. If there is no structural damage, then you may be able to replace the bumper structure support and styrofoam along with the hatch to make a complete repair.

If similar cars are selling for more than $6, 600 in your area, then it might be worth arguing with the insurance company for a better settlement.
You will probably have to turn over the $3,800 dollar check to the finance company to pay down the loan (unless you can convince them that the car is still worth more than the outstanding loan balance) because the insurance company will make the check out to both you and the finance company.

The $3800 can go to the finance company and I'll settle the rest, but I will certainly see if they will get closer to satisfying the balance in negotiations.

Since you mentioned it, there are two solid foam blocks that accompanied the steel bumper piece. They look undamaged. The only other parts they gave me are the splash guards behind the rear wheels and the mounting bolts they removed from the bumper and guards.

The auto shop stated that they could not reattached the bumper, so they didn't. They did state that the car was safe to drive.

 

[GerryAZ]

After seeing the styrofoam blocks (which appear to not be compressed) and looking at your photos again, it looks like it was a minor hit concentrated in the middle (above the license plate). It looks like there is a little damage to the body in the vicinity of the stationary latch for the hatch, but perhaps that can be repaired. I doubt that there is significant structural damage so you could replace the support piece for the bumper and replace the hatch and have a good, useable car (if you can get the stationary latch area repaired).

 

[Flyct]

Take the money and move on. In addition the the Actual Cash Value they are required to reimburse for sales tax and title fees so after based on a $4,000 loan payoff you should get a check in the neighborhood of $2,500. Use that check as a down payment for another car and move on.

My 2019 SL Plus was just totaled last month. There was no lien holder so it was simple math.
The other driver was charged with the accident by she was uninsured, so I had to claim under my collision policy. State farm payed out almost $60,000 after our ambulance fees, hospital bills, towing fees, storage yard fees, body shop fees to tear car apart for estimate and what they payed me for car.

Here are the details of the car payoff from State Farm

$30,635.00 Actual Cash Value
+$1,912.50 Taxes
+ $ 77.25 Title Transfer
----------------
$32,614.75 Subtotal
( $1,000) deductible
( $0,00) Payment to lien holder if applicable
----------------
$31,614.75 Total payable to me
=========

I then bought a 2020 SL Plus for $38,000 out the door so there was about $6,400 I had to add to the State Farm payout. When I factor in the $7,500 federal tax credit I came out $1,100 ahead and I have a one year newer car with 0-miles.

 

[GerryAZ]

Flyct,

Since your car was only a year or so old, you came out very well financially. Unfortunately, Hackderoot is not so lucky and will lose money on this situation (just a question of how much). Although I ultimately negotiated a settlement about $5,000 more than the original offer from the other driver's insurance company, I still lost money because I had no car payment on the 2011 and the replacement battery was only 15 months old so I was looking forward to inexpensive transportation for quite a while. I replaced it with a 2015 and a 6-year loan (with gap insurance to avoid owing more than reimbursement if another crash happened). Insurance was higher on the 2015, I had monthly payments to make, and some features the 2011 had were not available in 2015. I drove the 2015 enough miles during the next 4-1/2 years to amortize the costs enough to make total ownership cost reasonable, but it still cost more than driving the 2011 if there had been no crash.

 

[Flyct]

Gerry,

I agree with everything you stated.

My point is $6,600 plus tax and title fees is a good offer for a 2013 SL w/80,000 miles. He should be able to find an equivalent replacement in that price range with some time looking.

Hackderoot seems to be a very knowledgeable and experienced Leaf owner so he will know what to look for. Armed with Leaf Spy, carfax etc he should be able to find a gem and come out even or even ahead.

I was in a different position. I had recently filed a 2nd Lemon Law claim on my !eaf when it was in the accident. I didn’t want it back. After the first LL filing I accepted a financial settlement from Nissan thinking the issue was resolved. When another related problem popped up I wanted Nissan to but it back or replace it. Then we got in the accident. Thankfully we weren’t seriously injured. Cars can be replaced.

 

[hackdroot]

So here is the offer from the insurance company:

Actual Cash Value $6,166.00
Tax Rate 9.2500%
Tax $570.36
DMV Refund $196.00
Subtotal $6,932.36
Settlement Amount $6,932.36
To Lien Holder $4,200.00 estimated payoff (Payoff is actually 4300)
To Claimant $2,732.36

Actual Cash Value $6,166.00
Tax Rate 9.2500%
Tax $211.86
DMV Refund $22.00
Subtotal $6,399.86
Less remaining salvage value Salvage $3,875.61
Settlement Amount $2,524.25
To Lien Holder $2,524.25
To Claimant -0.00

I would need lienholder’s approval to retain the vehicle. They may require that I pay the remaining amount of 1625.75 right away or over time.

Also, if I retain the vehicle, I would eventually have to register the vehicle with a salvage title at the CA DMV.

I'm not inclined to keep it since it would have a salvaged title and I would have to find someone to repair it properly for the ~$2600 remainder from the settlement. The other option is to forfeit the vehicle, satisfy the loan, and use the ~$2600 towards a down payment on a non-damaged/non-salvaged used leaf to make things 'equal' again. This leaf has been retired as my commuter for some time and relegated to my wife for local errands and her modest commute of 10 miles. I am accepting delivery on a 2021 Model Y today to use as my primary commuter and driver.

 

[GerryAZ]

Enjoy the new Model Y! It looks like letting the insurance company keep the LEAF is your best bet. That way you are clear from the loan and you can put the remaining balance toward another car (you may need a loan, but you had one before).

 

[SageBrush]

The other option is to forfeit the vehicle, satisfy the loan, and use the ~$2600 towards a down payment on a non-damaged/non-salvaged used leaf to make things 'equal' again. This leaf has been retired as my commuter for some time and relegated to my wife for local errands and her modest commute of 10 miles. I am accepting delivery on a 2021 Model Y today to use as my primary commuter and driver.

As if I needed any more proof, I *clearly* have no clue what choices people will make. :lol:

Which is in no way a negative comment on the Model Y -- I think it is the best car in the world and I too would be delighted to own one. I just didn't expect you to take on $50k of debt when you were agonizing over $4k.

May I summarize this accident as a 'get out of (LEAF) jail' card ? And what car does the wife get ?

 

[Flyct]

Hackdroot,

Congrats on the new Tesla. You made a wise decision to let your totaled leaf go.

I’m surprised you took the financial leap. We considered a Y to replace our recently totaled 2019 Leaf but decided that the another leaf (our 4th) met out mission perfectly at 1/2 the cost. If Nissan didn’t have the $6000-$8000 rebate, $4000 dealer discount and $7500 tax credit we would be a Tesla owner today. There is definite status and special pride owning a Tesla. Good luck and keep us informed.

 

[hackdroot]

TL;DR I always wanted a Tesla, so I bought one.

Thank guys/gals. I picked up the Y last night about 11:00pm. I'd be happy to share my <long> Y story.

I've always wanted a Tesla and haven't owned a new car in over 20 years. Working on used cars isn't as much fun as it used to be. I am well aware of their support and build issues, but as an engineer/technician I am fascinated with their technology and respect their drive to push the auto industry into EV acceptance through competition. I am willing to support this effort through my purchase.

I have been planning on this EV purchase for some time, but the leaf incident did accelerate this decision by:

• Eliminating my $195 leaf payment (2.5% used loan from orig purchase)
• Removing the vehicle obligation from my insurance

I did plan on purchasing a used model S, and went so far as to test drive a new 3 and S last week to get a feel for the size. After scouring the purchase options, I decided that due to the value retention it was a better financial decision to purchase new as this would most likely be one of the last vehicles I will purchase. A new S and X were out of my financial comfort zone. While at the showroom, I sat in the Y and was much more comfortable with the spacious interior. I am 6'3" and 230lbs (not fat, tall and wide shouldered), so this was important. The Y is not much more expensive than the 3 and worked out to be about $50 more a month, so it was a clear winner. My Y has the $10k full self driving option, so it was $60k. This option purchase I toiled with for a few days as I do not believe it is worth the price tag, but this is my way of supporting the technology through purchase knowing it will just get better over time. It also makes me feel like a cool guy, and there's nothing wrong with that.

I also accepted a new position as a Linux engineer at SpaceX in Hawthorne CA earlier this year which provided a boost in income. I drive a 2008 Scion xB (own) and my wife drove the Leaf. We also have a 2005 Honda Odyssey(own) she uses for longer trips or to haul items. My wife will be taking the scion and settlement remainder to do with as she pleases. She can sell the scion and use both pools of funds to get another leaf if she chooses, or perhaps a down payment for another vehicle for her. We will keep the van regardless.

In regards to agonizing over the $4k, I can afford my Y now, because I agonize over little amounts.

 

[SageBrush]

In regards to agonizing over the $4k, I can afford my Y now, because I agonize over little amounts.

My wife says that about me all.the.time, although her version is not a compliment.

Ughh.

Anyway, a big CONGRATS on your new car and exciting job. Do you continue living in the Bay area ?

 

[hackdroot]

In regards to agonizing over the $4k, I can afford my Y now, because I agonize over little amounts.

My wife says that about me all.the.time, although her version is not a compliment.

Ughh.

Anyway, a big CONGRATS on your new car and exciting job. Do you continue living in the Bay area ?

I am splitting my time between northern and southern CA. My daughter and wife remain in the BA as I evaluate the job and relocation during my 12mo apartment lease. I'm splitting it with a coworker who I've known for many years that joined SpaceX a year ago. My cashed out vacation from my previous gig is funding the apartment for the year and I am hoping the stock options will pay for the Y.