How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

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Hi,everyone..I got my 2020 S Plus last June, and changed the gear oil the first week,drove it for a week,then changed again..The factory fill came out nasty at 14k miles,so I was glad I did it...I used Mobil HP LV fluid,and all was good..Fast forward 12 months, I was bored last weekend so decided to do it again,since I had 2 quarts left..I just hit 30k miles,and the fluid I drained looked almost as nasty as the factory fill did...I was honestly surprised, so I looked around for different option,even considered Valvoline ULV,but in the end opted for the highest regarded fluid out there,Redline D6...So,I ordered some,and changed it again this Friday..We will see how it holds up at around 50k,when I will probably inspect it and see if it need's to be changed again,or if it look's good enough to go another 20-30k...
 
Fluid color is no longer the sole gauge of the status of ATF. Ford came out with a bulletin that dealer service should not judge the ATF by color alone because it does change color long before it has reached its end of life. That was for Mercon LV I believe.

I also recall reading a spec about the Mercon LV that it doesn't start to break down until over 270°F with a flash point of 421°F. My F-350 will see transmission temperatures in the 230's when towing and that's in the acceptable range. The change interval for my transmission starts at 150,000 miles. Not that I'm going to let it go that long, but that is a looooong time.

I can't see our Leaf transfer cases pushing ATF temperatures anywhere close to what a transmission does.
 
NedSlc said:
We will see how it holds up at around 50k,when I will probably inspect it and see if it need's to be changed again,or if it look's good enough to go another 20-30k...
You have already changed your oil more than I have...and I'm approaching 100k miles!
Not sure more is always better, but I have been very happy with efficiency readings (and performance) since I changed to Valvoline ULV over 10k miles ago.
 
Good video; thanks for posting.

Looks like I made a good choice. I had used RedLine's products in my karting days, so had an idea of their quality.
 
Hi,
I read all this topic. I just got my Gen2 Leaf with 88k km (55k miles) on it and would love to do gear oil change. Where I live I don't have Valvoline ULV available, but I do have RAVENOL ATF T-ULV. On one hand it's tempting to try it as winter is approaching and would be nice to have some extra efficiency. On other hand it's a little scary as it's KV100(cSt) is even lower than Volvolines ar 3.3
On other hand it is factory recommendation for 8 speed ATs for BMW, Volvo and other reputable brands.
Does anybody have actually tried RAVENOL T-ULV?
Those who changed to Valvoline ULV - are you still happy with how it runs?
 
maris said:
Where I live I don't have Valvoline ULV available, but I do have RAVENOL ATF T-ULV.
I think your hesitancy to use a very thin lubricant is right. Don't do it.
Valvoline ULV is already 20% thinner than Nissan Matic S, and it also would not be my pick.
If you did use any thinner fluid than Nissan Matic S (kv100 5.7 https://www.eneos.us/product/model-n/ ), you would experience some extra wear over many miles. Maybe excessive wear, hard to say without a long-term test. (?) It can be done, I just would not.

Personally, I use a kv100 6.5 high-phosphorous GL-4 synthetic gear oil for lowest wear, giving up a small amount of efficiency, not too bad.
Redline MT-LV GL-4 gear oil is my choice.
 
maris said:
Does anybody have actually tried RAVENOL T-ULV?
Those who changed to Valvoline ULV - are you still happy with how it runs?
There's lots of data on the Valvoline products (look back between pages 20-30), but I don't remember anything on Ravenol.
I put Valvoline ULV in my Gen1 Leaf over a year ago with great results (I live in a very warm climate)...including a bump in my miles/kWh (up to 0.5). Remember to replace the original magnetic plugs with new ones (purchased from Nissan).
 
Why are new plugs required? Was there something wrong with the original ones or ???

I know magnets can lose potency with heat but I have to assume that was taken into account during the original design.
 
goldbrick said:
Why are new plugs required? Was there something wrong with the original ones or ???
It was recommended (even by Nissan)...and is worth a few extra $ on something so important and so seldom done.
 
goldbrick said:
Why are new plugs required? Was there something wrong with the original ones or ???

I know magnets can lose potency with heat but I have to assume that was taken into account during the original design.

I think they mean the crush washers for the plugs, to avoid leaks...
 
Ended up doing it underneath with the front on ramps, back lifted up. Got a little hand pump that screws onto the top of the quart, so piece of cake. Thanks for the good info.
 
Ended up doing it underneath with the front on ramps, back lifted up. Got a little hand pump that screws onto the top of the quart, so piece of cake. Thanks for the good info.
Ditto.
I used an oil bottle with an extendable "straw". A piece of hosepipe integrated in the lid -- Just pull it out, insert in the hole and squeeze the bottle. Since I found that type of oil bottles, I've been using them on all kinds of gearboxes and differentials. No spill, and easy to fit a small 1 l bottle in tight spaces. Several brands have these bottles, and they can be reused -- Nice if you buy oil in cans of a gallon or 4.
 
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