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However, even a 4 bar loser 30 kWh car has about as much range as an '11 or '12 Leaf with a brand new pack (no degradation).

No, more like a 3 bar loser has the same range as a new 24kwh pack. I got corrected on that one a few months ago. A 4 bars lost 30kwh Leaf has roughly the same range as a 24kwr pack that has lost 1 bar, IIRC.
 
Nope. It was 107 for 30 kWh Leafs: https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/Find.do?action=sbs&id=32154&id=38428&id=34699&id=33558.

Then there was the whole 80/100% averaging crap that '13 Leaf got bit by:
https://insideevs.com/news/317213/2013-nissan-leaf-rated-at-75-miles-but-84-miles-using-the-outgoing-2012-epa-ratings-system/
https://insideevs.com/news/320736/2014-nissan-leaf-mostly-unchanged-as-range-technically-moves-up-to-84-miles/
 
alozzy said:
Sounds like you made a good decision, provided that 30 kWh pack hasn't been heavily degraded.

If you feel like it, you can order a compatible OBD2 dongle on Amazon (or wherever) and then purchase the LeafSpy Pro app from the app store. LeafSpy Pro will provide all the details on the health of your 30 kWh pack and it also provides trouble codes and a bunch of other useful features.

Otherwise, you'll find out pretty quickly what the real world range is. With a healthy 30 kWh pack, expect close to 100 miles during summer, at 55 mph, with few if any hills to climb.

as far as I can tell I only lost at most 3 bars (might be less but IIRC I got 10 currently) , I need to order the adapter, as my current adapter died, but I got Leaf Spy already, saved me on one of the '12 that had bad loss of battery, and this one looked rather healthy so. as for range, I am hoping to get a job closer to home with less driving then the previous one, so I should be ok on the 30Kw battery, I am also looking into (once funding allows) to build a portable solar recharger unit for the leaf when I am at work so I can let it trickle charge as I need to.


Also, can't remember who it was, but to answer your comment on the '17 battery 'loss', according to the dealer I got the car from (actual Nissan dealer) they checked and applied all open firmware updates when they took the car in to make sure it was ready for resale, and I asked that they double check and show me the print outs and service history with it to be sure on that one.
 
I am also looking into (once funding allows) to build a portable solar recharger unit for the leaf when I am at work so I can let it trickle charge as I need to.

On that point, there's no way you can produce meaningful power out of few solar panels, with the intention to L1 charge your LEAF @ 120V. You would need a string of panels, an MPPT, an inverter - none of that would be portable enough, not to mention powerful enough.
 
alozzy said:
I am also looking into (once funding allows) to build a portable solar recharger unit for the leaf when I am at work so I can let it trickle charge as I need to.

On that point, there's no way you can produce meaningful power out of few solar panels, with the intention to L1 charge your LEAF @ 120V. You would need a string of panels, an MPPT, an inverter - none of that would be portable enough, not to mention powerful enough.

Fair enough, there are portable camping units however, so there is always a possibility, plus I could always rig up something at my house as well, just more for a funzies thing really
 
It would be effort better spent to build a 14-18 volt solar charger for the 12 volt battery, along with replacing said battery with a higher capacity AGM type. It might even add a hundred meters or so of range.
 
Fair enough, there are portable camping units however, so there is always a possibility, plus I could always rig up something at my house as well, just more for a funzies thing really

A portable battery pack, that has a built-in 120V inverter and MPPT controller, would definitely be more viable and you could top that up using a solar installation at home.

For example, a Bluetti AC200P should do full rate (L1) charging, has a capacity of 2 kWh, includes an MPPT controller, and a built-in 2kW inverter. So, you could 120V charge, for almost 90 minutes, at a 1.4 kW rate.

Having said that, 2kWh will provide an additional 8 miles or so of range. I personally don't think it's worth the cost, unless you have other uses for a portable power pack...
 
LeftieBiker said:
However, even a 4 bar loser 30 kWh car has about as much range as an '11 or '12 Leaf with a brand new pack (no degradation).

No, more like a 3 bar loser has the same range as a new 24kwh pack. I got corrected on that one a few months ago. A 4 bars lost 30kwh Leaf has roughly the same range as a 24kwr pack that has lost 1 bar, IIRC.


When the 4rth bar drops, about 63% of new pack capacity remains and a new 30 kWh LEAF is about 28 kWh usable
28*0.63 = 17.64 kWh

A new 24 kWh pack is about 21.5 kWh usable, and 16% is lost when the 1st bar drops
21.5 *0.84 = 18.06 kWh
 
Well before we get into a heated discussion, I just want to let you guys know im currently down three (3) bars from the initial 12.


Now on my mobile 'recharge' idea, (yes I know I won't get the same as a L2 charging unit I get that, heck I may not get the full L1 either) its more of a trickle charge for times when I am at work not planning on moving the car for at least 5 hours or more.

but for all intents of the idea in theory lets say the solar panel puts out 1 KW, and my battery/portable charger (think camping generator that you can use while camping) is able to put out 1Kw of power, now if the leaf needs one 1Kw of power to trickle charge then that set up will work, same if I got a panel that is able to put more out then what needs to be supplied. I am not needing it to insta charge me to a full charge, thats why public chargers are around for. granted I'm still playing around with the idea and thinking of more just building a solar powered unit at my house for use instead of the power grid.
 
Yeah, focus on home based solar rather than on mobile charging your LEAF. To put it bluntly, while it sounds like a cool project, it's not worth the time, effort, and cost to come up with something that L1 charges for an hour or so. You are much better off L2 charging using public charging infrastructure.

Also, the stock EVSE will demand 12A from your power source - you can't "dial it down". It won't function if it can't get that reliably and grounding could be an issue too.
 
I suppose I should break this off from the main topic at this point, but do you have any suggestions on the whole solar set up, I want it to be as simple as I can possibly make it, basically panel(s), wire, inverter/plug in point and maybe a battery and not much more. also as far as 12A that should not be too difficult I would think.
 
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