gncndad
Well-known member
Is there anyone on this forum that has a DC-region Nissan dealership they might recommend?
Goodbar said:I was able to replicate the problem with the car on stands today while I was doing scheduled maintenance. I put a floor jack under the control arm and turned the steering wheel lock to lock. I studied the original video (higher res than below) at 1/4-speed and couldn't see anything moving/vibrating as the two sounds happened a few seconds apart. I left in a lock-lock sequence afterward so you can see that it's silent.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xV3jMGgfkp2MynU2A
Got another twofer of clunks/pops when backing out of the driveway:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/w3XxsDpknFqMB3s86
It amazes me that the dealer hasn't been able to fix this, but I think I need to get over it. Looking for help with two things:
- Competent dealers in the Metro D.C. area
- Input from those who have successfully escalated a difficult issue through Nissan USA
Thanks!
Lothsahn said:While I can't help you with the DC dealer or Nissan escalation (in fact, I've had an unsuccessful escalation with them), I will say, in the event that any dealer tries to tell you otherwise, that this behavior is not normal. I have a 2011 and my car has never done this--bang or twang sound.
Good luck
Goodbar said:Lothsahn said:While I can't help you with the DC dealer or Nissan escalation (in fact, I've had an unsuccessful escalation with them), I will say, in the event that any dealer tries to tell you otherwise, that this behavior is not normal. I have a 2011 and my car has never done this--bang or twang sound.
Good luck
Thanks. I find it insulting — and lazy — that they've suggested that it's normal. I've owned tired old cars that didn't make any noises that after their suspensions were refreshed. So it seems unreasonable that a car I bought new couldn't be fixed. Especially after five visits.
Lothsahn said:Have you consulted lemon laws in your area? I know in some areas they can be quite generous--If not fixed in X number of times, return car for original purchase price, etc.
Even if you don't want to invoke that, it's often a good way to get the company to wake up and fix the problem. A threat that they have to buy back a 3 year old car at sticker can get the teflon service manager to change his tune quickly (and most of the suspension components on your car).
Alternatively, take it to a competent independent mechanic and they'll probably have it sorted in a few days. At some point, your time and frustration becomes not worth it.
Lothsahn said:Goodbar said:Lothsahn said:While I can't help you with the DC dealer or Nissan escalation (in fact, I've had an unsuccessful escalation with them), I will say, in the event that any dealer tries to tell you otherwise, that this behavior is not normal. I have a 2011 and my car has never done this--bang or twang sound.
Good luck
Thanks. I find it insulting — and lazy — that they've suggested that it's normal. I've owned tired old cars that didn't make any noises that after their suspensions were refreshed. So it seems unreasonable that a car I bought new couldn't be fixed. Especially after five visits.
Have you consulted lemon laws in your area? I know in some areas they can be quite generous--If not fixed in X number of times, return car for original purchase price, etc.
Even if you don't want to invoke that, it's often a good way to get the company to wake up and fix the problem. A threat that they have to buy back a 3 year old car at sticker can get the teflon service manager to change his tune quickly (and most of the suspension components on your car).
Alternatively, take it to a competent independent mechanic and they'll probably have it sorted in a few days. At some point, your time and frustration becomes not worth it.
Goodbar said:Lothsahn said:Goodbar said:Thanks. I find it insulting — and lazy — that they've suggested that it's normal. I've owned tired old cars that didn't make any noises that after their suspensions were refreshed. So it seems unreasonable that a car I bought new couldn't be fixed. Especially after five visits.
Have you consulted lemon laws in your area? I know in some areas they can be quite generous--If not fixed in X number of times, return car for original purchase price, etc.
Even if you don't want to invoke that, it's often a good way to get the company to wake up and fix the problem. A threat that they have to buy back a 3 year old car at sticker can get the teflon service manager to change his tune quickly (and most of the suspension components on your car).
Alternatively, take it to a competent independent mechanic and they'll probably have it sorted in a few days. At some point, your time and frustration becomes not worth it.
I should have consulted MD's lemon law earlier
https://www.peoples-law.org/marylands-lemon-law
.. because I probably would have qualified. I'm over the mileage and age limits, but might still discuss with an attorney. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks, that confirms my suspicion. The bearings (one orig, the other is 1 year old) that came out of the car are not gouged, but they are slightly distorted (i.e., don't sit flat). They also bind in a couple spots, though I realize that they don't go through a full rotation when installed.nlspace said:The spacer goes between the top of the spring and the bearing holder to reduce or eliminate any freespace or gap.
The problem is that these are 3rd world design springs used in the laef.
The ends of the spring are just open-end coils and it looks like they just used a crude shear to trim the end after the coil was bent--there may even be a burr on the end. A good quality spring would have the ends turned in and ground flat, to provide a large smooth face and surface area to carry the load and to ride flat against the bearing holder, and to adjust the free spring length to a known spec.
As a result of the open coil design there is a concentrated point load at the spring end against the bearing holder that can dig in (if burred) and bind during turning. The amount of contact between the spring coil end and the holder varies depending upon the road loading too.
When the turning load force exceeds the burr holding force, the spring pops back up against the holder and makes a noise. The top end of the strut is floating in the bearing holder so there is plenty of compliance to allow turning, side loads and bumps.
A proper ground spring end would have cost slightly more to produce, as would removing the burr from a sheared part. But if nothing else they could have used a spring perch at the top to fit and contain the end coil just as was used at the lower end of the spring.
Take a flashlight and look up high in the wheel well to see this mess, and look to see if your flat bearing holder surface is all scratched up and gouged with dig marks from the spring?
nlspace said:compare the direction of the coil winding and whether the bearing holder is sliding away from or being driven in toward the coil end when turning the steering wheel in the direction that caused the clunk.
When the car is jacked up it unloads the spring and may not create the clunking conditions, but you could shake the spring to see if there is any gap at the top. i wouldn't expect any, but ya never know...
Goodbar said:...
the car are not gouged, but they are slightly distorted (i.e., don't sit flat). They also bind in a couple spots,
Old bearing right side: This is was replaced under warranty Aug 2020. The plastic housing had slight distortion, but the bearing runs smoothly when installed with the spacer. I took it through a full revolution.nlspace said:What was the condition of the old bearing and mount?
Was there roughness and binding when rotating the bearing?
Didn't take good photos when I removed the Nissan bearings about three weeks ago.What was the gap on the old bearing?
The factory mounts look fine. I didn't want to take it apart only to find they were in need of replacement, so I just bought replacement KYBs.Was the rubberized portions of the strut mount damaged, broken or loose?
No.Did you lubricate the new bearing or any sliding surfaces?
Cheaper, and AFAIK, they are the OEM. The bearings look identical, though made more noise than the factory parts ever did... so maybe looks are deceiving. The strut mounts differ slightly from the factory parts. I thought the car rode a little better with the KYBs (maybe simply due to the rubber being newer and more supple), so I retained them.Why KYB and not the OEM parts?
There is a slight rise from the street to the driveway, but the sound happened when cutting the steering wheel and before the front wheels go over that transition.It seems to happen while turning the wheels to the left when backing out of your driveway--is there a step or crack in the driveway?
Agreed. It's been a learning process. And frankly a ridiculous amount of effort to correct a fault that the car shipped with. It dims my view of Nissan's engineering and build quality. Hoping it's finally fixed.My 2012 has over a 1mm gap all around the bearing with no distortion at the spring end. And no retro spacer ring.
That KYB bearing seems not up to spec.
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