NYLEAF
Well-known member
For that one, Legrand wanted the broken one back. So I attached the broken cord to the rest of the new unit and shipped it back. If I had it now I'd be thrilled!
Charging Station Dilemma, need advice
- Thread starter NYLEAF
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NYLEAF
Well-known member
Just to provide a final (and happy) update...
I took advantage of the warmer weather we had today to go outside and take the station down, with the intentions of bringing it inside and figuring out how to convert it to an OpenEVSE. However, as soon as I got it open, this is what I found:
Clearly there was some sort of issue...I'm guessing bad crimps on those two connectors?
I went to Radio Shack (yes, I found one that hasn't closed yet) and paid a couple bucks for some replacement 16-14 connectors. I cut the wire back to before the burned part, attached the new 16-14s, crimped, reassembled and reinstalled. The station's working perfectly!
So, it cost me $2 to fix my station, AND I've got a 30 amp station, brand new in the box, that I'll almost certainly sell. Not so much of a dilemma anymore!
Thanks again for all of your help!
I took advantage of the warmer weather we had today to go outside and take the station down, with the intentions of bringing it inside and figuring out how to convert it to an OpenEVSE. However, as soon as I got it open, this is what I found:
Clearly there was some sort of issue...I'm guessing bad crimps on those two connectors?
I went to Radio Shack (yes, I found one that hasn't closed yet) and paid a couple bucks for some replacement 16-14 connectors. I cut the wire back to before the burned part, attached the new 16-14s, crimped, reassembled and reinstalled. The station's working perfectly!
So, it cost me $2 to fix my station, AND I've got a 30 amp station, brand new in the box, that I'll almost certainly sell. Not so much of a dilemma anymore!
Thanks again for all of your help!
smkettner
Well-known member
#16 :shock: #14 :shock: I would be looking to replace all wire that carries primary power to #12 even #10.
desiv
Well-known member
Awesome!!!NYLEAF said:
Congrats!
I do agree tho, that now that you know what you've got, you should go a bit higher gauge just to be safe...
Instead of a $2 fix, consider it a $6 fix with some thicker cable/crimps.. ;-)
But nice find/repair!!!
desiv
NYLEAF said:Just to provide a final (and happy) update...
I took advantage of the warmer weather we had today to go outside and take the station down, with the intentions of bringing it inside and figuring out how to convert it to an OpenEVSE. However, as soon as I got it open, this is what I found:
Clearly there was some sort of issue...I'm guessing bad crimps on those two connectors?
I went to Radio Shack (yes, I found one that hasn't closed yet) and paid a couple bucks for some replacement 16-14 connectors. I cut the wire back to before the burned part, attached the new 16-14s, crimped, reassembled and reinstalled. The station's working perfectly!
So, it cost me $2 to fix my station, AND I've got a 30 amp station, brand new in the box, that I'll almost certainly sell. Not so much of a dilemma anymore!
Looking at the construction I can see why ingineer will not upgrade the Volt EVSE's. I agree that it would be better to upgrade to #12 wire ( 20A peak, 16A continuous) The supplied EVSE with my B Class also looks like junk! Good thing I only L2 charge.
Thanks again for all of your help!
davewill
Well-known member
Be sure to open it up and check those connections a few times over the next couple of weeks. If you see any signs of overheating, you'll want to jump on it before it causes a real problem. I also agree with the others, I'd replace those pigtails with #12. Glad it all worked out for you.NYLEAF said:
Nubo
Well-known member
NYLEAF said:
I wouldn't leave it with Radio Shack crimp connectors on those high-current connections that have already shown what can happen with poor crimps. Get a quality ratcheting crimper, and some high-quality high-temp crimp connectors so you get good tight gas-free connections that won't loosen and heat up.
NYLEAF,
After reading the entire thread, I have a couple of comments:
1. You might want to take another look at installing the 30-ampere EVSE (40-ampere circuit) because you should be able to get 3 No. 8 THHN wires in a 1/2-inch conduit in accordance with NEC. Unless your conduit is smaller than 1/2-inch or the electrical code in your area is more strict than NEC, you should be able to replace the breaker, pull new wire, and install the 30-ampere EVSE.
2. As others already noted, check those wires and connections in the repaired unit periodically if you keep using it. Larger wires will dissipate heat away from connections better so replacing those wires with No. 10 or 12 AWG wires and making sure the plug-on connectors fit really tight to the circuit board would be advisable.
Gerry
After reading the entire thread, I have a couple of comments:
1. You might want to take another look at installing the 30-ampere EVSE (40-ampere circuit) because you should be able to get 3 No. 8 THHN wires in a 1/2-inch conduit in accordance with NEC. Unless your conduit is smaller than 1/2-inch or the electrical code in your area is more strict than NEC, you should be able to replace the breaker, pull new wire, and install the 30-ampere EVSE.
2. As others already noted, check those wires and connections in the repaired unit periodically if you keep using it. Larger wires will dissipate heat away from connections better so replacing those wires with No. 10 or 12 AWG wires and making sure the plug-on connectors fit really tight to the circuit board would be advisable.
Gerry
keydiver
Well-known member
I can't understand why those 2 hot wires are on spade terminals at all, as they are only pigtails to wire nut to the incoming power. I would solder some heavier copper braided wire directly through the board and eliminate the terminals, but that's just me. 
Poor design, IMHO, not very "Legrand".
Poor design, IMHO, not very "Legrand".Longstreet
New member
GerryAZ said:
Wouldn't he also be able to pull 2 No. 8 THHN wires and 1 No. 10? At least that is my understanding of table 250.122. That would save some space as well.
XeonPony
Well-known member
keydiver said:I can't understand why those 2 hot wires are on spade terminals at all, as they are only pigtails to wire nut to the incoming power. I would solder some heavier copper braided wire directly through the board and eliminate the terminals, but that's just me.
Same here, solder on some 10-8awg wire and be don with it Very poor design for power inlet imo. even screw down terminals are better, but I have seen this way more often then I'd ever like to in allot of various power boards.
ishiyakazuo
Well-known member
I think you missed the part that this is a 16A continuous EVSE... 8AWG wire would be overkill.XeonPony said:
12AWG is going to be just fine here... 10 if you're REALLY wanting to be extra super duper safe (even though NEC says that 12 should already be safe). At a minimum, definitely upgrade it to at least 12, if it's already smoked what's in there...
