12V battery dead after 10 days; Roadside Assist useless

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Atebit

Active member
Joined
Dec 14, 2011
Messages
36
There is another thread where someone was in a situation where both their 12V & drive batteries were depleted, but the situation I came home to this morning was a little different. Ten days ago I parked the car in the garage with two bars of charge left on the gauge. Not wanting to charge it up & leave it sit for 10 days, but also not having time to babysit charging it up "a little", I left it disconnected figuring that I would just plug it in when I returned home.

When I got home this morning, the car was totally unresponsive. A voltmeter across the battery (under load) indicated ~2 volts. I probably should've disconnected from the car to get a better reading, but I figured dead was dead. I also figured that either the drive battery went totally flat trying to keep the 12V battery charged, or that for whatever reason the 12V battery must've discharged in less than five days before the car was able to get around to try & charge it.

Since I didn't have another car handy at the moment to try a jump, I called Nissan Roadside Assistance to request a visit from a booster battery. I explained that the car was in my garage & ready to connect up to the EVSE , and all I needed was to boost the 12V battery a bit so I could begin charging. They put me on hold, only to come back & tell me that they would need to tow the car to the dealer (!). They said they are not allowed to jump a LEAF. When I said that the procedure is right on page 6-10 of the owener's manual, they put me on hold again, for much longer. When they came back on the line, the Roadside rep told me she had a "Volt Technician" (lol) from a local Nissan dealer on the line. He also toed this ridiculous line that jumping the car was verboten & that the car needed to be towed to the dealership. When I asked what they would possibly do differently at the dealership than what I was asking for in my garage, he was at a loss to explain. He also didn't know that the owner's manual explains the jump procedure (which is really no different from any other car). He just kept saying, polly-want-a-cracker-like, that it needed to be towed in.

At that point, I decided to terminate the call & wait for my wife to get home. When she did, as soon as I connected the jumper cables, it was like the car woke from a deep sleep. I was able to turn it on & noticed that there was still one bar/12 miles available on the clock. I disconnected the jumper cables & the LEAF stayed on. Now my voltmeter was showing 13.1V across the battery; apparently now the car was OK with charging the 12V battery from the drive battery. I hooked up the EVSE & it has been happily charging for about three hours now. I had a look inside the cabin, but no map lights, etc. were left on that would caused the 12V battery to go flat.

I understand that the telematics are always drawing power, but I was very surprised that the 12V battery would totally discharge in the space of 10 days given that the drive battery was not yet fully discharged. If the car is not running, it seems like the priority should be to the 12V battery since you can't (easily) open locked doors, release the parking brake, or charge the drive battery without it.

I was also surprised at the FUD displayed by both Roadside Assistance & the "Volt Technician" WRT trying to jump start the car. I clearly stated that it was in my garage with the 240V EVSE nearby, so even if the drive battery was fully flat I still had a way to charge it. Had this happened in a parking lot or on the road with no way to charge the drive battery, that would be a different story. I understand that Roadside Assist is just a contractor, but it seems like Nissan is feeding the same nonsense to them as they are to their LEAF techs in the field.

I'll keep an eye on my 12V battery over the next few days, but I'm wondering if it's possible that there might some boundary-condition flaw in the LEAF's 12V charging rules?
 
Atebit said:
There is another thread where someone was in a situation where both their 12V & drive batteries were depleted, but the situation I came home to this morning was a little different. Ten days ago I parked the car in the garage with two bars of charge left on the gauge. Not wanting to charge it up & leave it sit for 10 days, but also not having time to babysit charging it up "a little", I left it disconnected figuring that I would just plug it in when I returned home.
That's a new record! I think others have gone for more than one month disconnected without the 12V battery draining.
Atebit said:
When I got home this morning, the car was totally unresponsive. A voltmeter across the battery (under load) indicated ~2 volts. I probably should've disconnected from the car to get a better reading, but I figured dead was dead. I also figured that either the drive battery went totally flat trying to keep the 12V battery charged, or that for whatever reason the 12V battery must've discharged in less than five days before the car was able to get around to try & charge it.
2V is pretty low! That sounds more like a resistor (like a light bulb) than something electronic, since they normally disconnect below a certain voltage.
Atebit said:
I'll keep an eye on my 12V battery over the next few days, but I'm wondering if it's possible that there might some boundary-condition flaw in the LEAF's 12V charging rules?
If it wasn't a map (or other) light, then I agree there must be a condition where things don't work properly. I've done a bit of testing of the 12V battery in our LEAF with the EVSE unplugged and the battery did not drain nearly as fast as you say. It also charged (a little) after five days. I suspect yours was dead before that time.
 
Atebit said:
...They said they are not allowed to jump a LEAF. ...

Crazyness. The LEAF doesn't need a "jump", it just needs a bit of charge added to the 12V. To be ultimately safe, the battery terminal connections could be removed and a brief charge session performed to bring up the voltage to where it could be hooked up again to power the onboard systems. It's not like it has to provide 300CCA to start a V8. :roll:

In any case, any automobile owner should own at least a 12V trickle charger. They are very cheap. Much cheaper than being towed to the shop.
 
Nubo said:
In any case, any automobile owner should own at least a 12V trickle charger. They are very cheap. Much cheaper than being towed to the shop.
+1

The Schumacher SEM-1562A Speed Charge Maintainer is on sale for $15.20 at Amazon until the end of the year. I just ordered one the other day and haven't yet received it, but the price and the reviews look pretty good!
 
Nubo said:
Atebit said:
...They said they are not allowed to jump a LEAF. ...

In any case, any automobile owner should own at least a 12V trickle charger. They are very cheap. Much cheaper than being towed to the shop.

Agreed. I have a trickle-charger, I really just didn't think that it would be necessary for a 10 day trip. And of course by the time I got back, the 12V@1A it outputs was not able to stir the car at all. ;)
 
Assuming you didn't accidentally leave a light on and/or the car in accessory mode, it appears that your 12V battery was defective. The car should be just fine if left unplugged for an extended period. I've left mine like that up to 45 days with no problems. It will wake up every 5 days to charge the 12 volt battery if left unplugged, which is normally plenty. In any event, since your 12V battery was dead, it is toast now even if it wasn't before...

Atebit said:
I understand that the telematics are always drawing power, but I was very surprised that the 12V battery would totally discharge in the space of 10 days given that the drive battery was not yet fully discharged. If the car is not running, it seems like the priority should be to the 12V battery since you can't (easily) open locked doors, release the parking brake, or charge the drive battery without it.
 
Atebit said:
Agreed. I have a trickle-charger, I really just didn't think that it would be necessary for a 10 day trip. And of course by the time I got back, the 12V@1A it outputs was not able to stir the car at all. ;)
Good point! It's not that the 1A is insufficient, but rather the automatic chargers measure the voltage and will not charge if it is too low. (It kinda makes you wonder what they think you are trying to do hooking the charger to the battery. I guess they want to prevent people from trying to charge their flashlight batteries!)
 
Many automatic chargers need to see enough voltage for the unit to determine that the hook-up polarity is correct before it will start charging...

RegGuheert said:
It's not that the 1A is insufficient, but rather the automatic chargers measure the voltage and will not charge if it is too low. (It kinda makes you wonder what they think you are trying to do hooking the charger to the battery. I guess they want to prevent people from trying to charge their flashlight batteries!)
 
I think it is most likely that you accidentally left the car in accessory mode, although a defective battery is also a possibility. We have seen this reported before.
 
Dont blame the roadside service guys.. they dont get paid if they go outside their contract. Just call a local provider and they will be happy to jumpstart you as long as you pay.. hopefully they wont fry your computers.
 
RegGuheert said:
Nubo said:
In any case, any automobile owner should own at least a 12V trickle charger. They are very cheap. Much cheaper than being towed to the shop.
+1

The Schumacher SEM-1562A Speed Charge Maintainer is on sale for $15.20 at Amazon until the end of the year. I just ordered one the other day and haven't yet received it, but the price and the reviews look pretty good!
I have one of these in my garage----wouldn't be without it. I've used it a couple of times to charge the Prius battery, after I inadvertently left the rear lid unlatched for a couple weeks.
 
too bad you didnt have an SOC meter. it is apparent that the 12 volt battery is sacrificed when SOC of traction battery gets to a certain point. guessing near 20%?

since you didnt mention it, I will assume you were still above LBW. I know someone who was gone about a month and came back and had no issues at all. She left her LEAF at 40% and she stated that it did not appear to lose any charge at all while she was gone.

you stated it went from 2 bars to one? guessing you were right on the edge maybe?

as far as jumping the LEAF? I got one of those portable jump boxes (used it to charge my cellphone and such while out camping...) cost like $20-25 at harbor freight or some place. dont actually remember where but they are usually good for about 5 -6 years before they lose the charge but have been rotating new ones in for decades. Previous to that, I used them for charging my RC battery packs and so on. The first ones I bought were near $100 and were heavy. they are getting cheaper and lighter every year

I have actually used my jump box to jump the Prius twice...other than that, they have never come close to a car battery...
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
too bad you didnt have an SOC meter. it is apparent that the 12 volt battery is sacrificed when SOC of traction battery gets to a certain point. guessing near 20%?
Maybe that's true, but the 12V battery still should have lived MUCH longer than 10 days!
 
RegGuheert said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
too bad you didnt have an SOC meter. it is apparent that the 12 volt battery is sacrificed when SOC of traction battery gets to a certain point. guessing near 20%?
Maybe that's true, but the 12V battery still should have lived MUCH longer than 10 days!

well not if the #1 concern is protection of the $10,000 pack over the $100 battery. There will be a line in the sand where the 12 volt battery will be sacrificed and rightfully so. this sounds like that line. he had two bars, 10 days later he had one which tells me, he probably was just on the brink of one bar or was already there and a power cycle would have revealed that.

**side note** Carwings does have the ability to tell us several things and after 3 years we are expected to pay for it. If if provided a full diagnostic monitoring that can be configured for various alert parameters like 12 volt battery low, SOC low, etc. it would be well worth the peace of mind to head these things off. but as it stands, I have to say that it is almost worthless.

If need be, I have no qualms about going out to the garage 10 minutes early to preheat the car manually. other than that, it does not do much I need...
 
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