You and other post really low mile ranges with 10 bars.... I have 10 bars on my 2015 LEAF SV. I get 80 miles block range. In winter I lose about 10 miles may be a bit more? Now winter is below 60F but more than 32F. No sub zero.Welcome. The photo of the dash display shows 10 capacity bars, meaning a Summer range of roughly 50-60 miles. Since this is the S trim level there is no heat pump, so assume a Winter range of 2/3 to as little as half that.* Is this adequate for your needs?
( The LeafSpy shots don't seem to include the screen with capacity ("SOH") but the voltage histogram shows a well balanced battery pack...
* At temperatures below about 20F the Leafs with no heat pump get about the same range as those with it, because the heat pump doesn't provide a noticeable amount of heat at those temps. In that case the range would still be as little as 20-25 miles.
What matters is the second car has a higher AHr reading (51 vs 48)...so the second battery pack has more capacity at this time. Both packs seem to be well balanced with no "weak" cells.The second car is higher trim (SV instead of V), one year older and has quite a bit more miles... But who cares about that - I just want good range.
That is exciting news.... I miss the App to see charge status, charging or not, turn on systems.... It was nice. It was a little glitchy but it worked.@Stanton I just read up a little about the OVMS conversion. I don't have time to go deep right now (will check in again tonight), but it seems that the bottom line is that it would cost about $500 to update the car's modem to 4G which would allow me to pre-heat the car each morning before work while it is plugged in - which would mean that I arrive to a nice warm car WITH A FULL BATTERY?!!
Could you please confirm that I am understanding correctly? This would be a game changer.
It seems that althoguh the second car looks more run down (ugly upholstery, scratches, dings, more miles, older, etc.) it is the better option in terms of battery health and functionality (cruise control and OVMS update).
... So I think I will be buying option number 2...
Thanks for all the helpful insights everybody!
Good choice. Here's more info on your commute. My LEAFSPY tells me my cabin heater uses 1500 watts (on average). I estimate your commute to take about 1 hour round trip. That is 1500 watt-hours (or 1.5 KWH). I get easily 3.5 miles per KWH. Therefore, running your heater will cost you about 5 miles of range for your round trip. 1.5 KWH X 3.5 MI/KWH = 5.25 Miles.@Stanton I just read up a little about the OVMS conversion. I don't have time to go deep right now (will check in again tonight), but it seems that the bottom line is that it would cost about $500 to update the car's modem to 4G which would allow me to pre-heat the car each morning before work while it is plugged in - which would mean that I arrive to a nice warm car WITH A FULL BATTERY?!!
Could you please confirm that I am understanding correctly? This would be a game changer.
It seems that althoguh the second car looks more run down (ugly upholstery, scratches, dings, more miles, older, etc.) it is the better option in terms of battery health and functionality (cruise control and OVMS update).
... So I think I will be buying option number 2...
Thanks for all the helpful insights everybody!
You are on the right track...but way off on the cost (should be almost half that). You may need to do a bit of modification for remote heat depending on the Leaf version you get, but it's covered in the Nissan Leaf section for OVMS and mentioned in my thread on this forum.@Stanton I just read up a little about the OVMS conversion. I don't have time to go deep right now (will check in again tonight), but it seems that the bottom line is that it would cost about $500 to update the car's modem to 4G which would allow me to pre-heat the car each morning before work while it is plugged in - which would mean that I arrive to a nice warm car WITH A FULL BATTERY?!!
Could you please confirm that I am understanding correctly? This would be a game changer.
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