Capacity Loss on 2011-2012 LEAFs

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RegGuheert said:
LEAFfan said:
But that's not what I was saying.
Understood.I realize TickTock just recently dropped his first bar, but perhaps there is a 20-day running average or something that delays the disappearance of a bar.

No, he lost his awhile ago, but leafkabob recently lost one (the day after I read a 13-14% loss).
 
LEAFfan said:
No, he lost his awhile ago, but leafkabob recently lost one (the day after I read a 13-14% loss).
O.K. I grabbed his post about losing the bar:
TickTock said:
I lost my first capacity bar this morning. I had only charged to 80% and read 186 gids and 9 SOC bars. My last 100% charge was 228 gids 3 days ago. Will charge to 100% tomorrow to see if it reads lower then that.
So, 186/232=228/281=80% so he is only down about 1% from then by my model.

BTW, all my '=' are within about 1%, probably within the linearity of the LEAF measurement system.
 
abasile said:
Stoaty said:
Do you cycle your pack gently? I understand you still have outstanding number of Gids... of course, that cool mountain living probably isn't hurting your battery capacity any. :D
During Year 1, we were relatively gentle in terms of cycling. However, these days we're often cycling between 80% and LBW, as the car is going down the hill (where it's hotter) much more frequently. Year 2 will not be as gentle. We'll see what effect that has.

I am disappointed that my efforts to limit depth of discharge cycling have not yielded better results. I have been to LBW 3 times, and only one of those reached VLBW. Starting last Fall, I have been limiting 100% charges in favor of 90% charges, with 80% most common.

Even in Year 1, before you started your new job down the mountain, my understanding was that you arrived home at or near LBW quite a few times, and I would think the regen on the way down, the higher than typical power levels on the way up, and charging at the bottom at relatively warm temperatures to relatively high charge would all have some impact.

At the upper end of the scale, Boomer23's relatively good experience indicates that frequent charging to 100% also does not necessarily stress the battery as much as I expected.

It would seem likely that the battery modules are kept to very tight tolerances to minimize permanent imbalance, so I would expect that the variations we are seeing are some complex function of our actual driving, charging, and temperature patterns.
 
EdmondLeaf said:
Steve,
Did you allowed time for cell balancing after charge finished, wonder if cell balancing is needed, because your car is so new and not many miles. Do 100 again, and I am waiting for your 80%. If your 100 won't change then I predict 220 for your 80%

It was measured an hour or two after charging. I checked again the next morning and it was 264. I'm doing an 80% charge right now. When I measure that, I'll do 100% again and measure in the morning.
 
Ok, got 227 for my 80%. Hit timer override, and I'll check it again in the morning for a balanced 100%.

Cheezmo said:
EdmondLeaf said:
Steve,
Did you allowed time for cell balancing after charge finished, wonder if cell balancing is needed, because your car is so new and not many miles. Do 100 again, and I am waiting for your 80%. If your 100 won't change then I predict 220 for your 80%

It was measured an hour or two after charging. I checked again the next morning and it was 264. I'm doing an 80% charge right now. When I measure that, I'll do 100% again and measure in the morning.
 
tbleakne said:
abasile said:
During Year 1, we were relatively gentle in terms of cycling. However, these days we're often cycling between 80% and LBW, as the car is going down the hill (where it's hotter) much more frequently. Year 2 will not be as gentle. We'll see what effect that has.

I am disappointed that my efforts to limit depth of discharge cycling have not yielded better results. I have been to LBW 3 times, and only one of those reached VLBW. Starting last Fall, I have been limiting 100% charges in favor of 90% charges, with 80% most common.

Even in Year 1, before you started your new job down the mountain, my understanding was that you arrived home at or near LBW quite a few times, and I would think the regen on the way down, the higher than typical power levels on the way up, and charging at the bottom at relatively warm temperatures to relatively high charge would all have some impact.

At the upper end of the scale, Boomer23's relatively good experience indicates that frequent charging to 100% also does not necessarily stress the battery as much as I expected.

It would seem likely that the battery modules are kept to very tight tolerances to minimize permanent imbalance, so I would expect that the variations we are seeing are some complex function of our actual driving, charging, and temperature patterns.
Yes, in terms of driving patterns, I've been harder on my pack than many. While I've never driven the car below VLBW (though I've hit VLBW after pulling into the driveway), I've been below LBW on many occasions.

I am surprised that temperature appears to be such a dominant factor in battery life. Tom, if I were in your shoes, I might consider parking outside at night, or whenever your garage is warmer than the outside temperature. Then again, considering your capacity loss was in the 3-4% range for Year 1, that might not be worth the trouble.
 
abasile said:
Then again, considering your capacity loss was in the 3-4% range for Year 1, that might not be worth the trouble.
Yes, there should still be over 80% capacity left after 10 years given that starting trajectory.
 
RegGuheert said:
abasile said:
Then again, considering your capacity loss was in the 3-4% range for Year 1, that might not be worth the trouble.
Yes, there should still be over 80% capacity left after 10 years given that starting trajectory.
I would be careful about making such projections with this type of accuracy. We know precious little about these cells, and there is not much information forthcoming. Even if you made assumptions based on other cells, and tried to apply a model someone else came up with for a different product, it will be a rough estimate at best. Moreover, we cannot be certain what the permanent capacity loss exactly was based on a few Gid readings. Let's wait for more data. That said, I agree that the capacity fade projection is in the right ballpark. My point is that it's too early to make such predictions with this level of confidence given the data we have.
 
EdmondLeaf said:
Good job, if you do not report 276 or more tomorrow morning I will be disappointed.

Hmm... I got 271.

So...

80%: 227
100%: 271

Unless I haven't done "balancing" right. I think that is probably it but I'll probably check it one more time this weekend.
 
Steve, I am satisfy with result you got. Do it again on timer to 80% in the evening, and the override, and measure in the morning, my calculation was based on ratio between to ideal numbers 231 and 281
 
OK...count me in. Lost a bar today...like the rest, down to 11.

I've been a diligent 80% charger since day one, seldom charge more than once daily, occasionally do 100% on the weekends. Thank heavens I leased:)
 
cyellen said:
OK...count me in. Lost a bar today...like the rest, down to 11.
Welcome, number eight! I see that you are in Phoenix, and it's a white Leaf. Are white and red the most popular colors there, would you know?
1
 
LEAFfan said:
Herm said:
LBW is at the 8.5% SOC point?

No, LBW is at 17.4% on the BCM or Gid meter. VLBW is at 8.5%. Turtle varies between 1.4% and 2.4% depending on speed.
I'll go on my usual tirade again saying that Gids cannot be used to accurately calculate SoC. So far nobody anywhere (except maybe Nissan Engineers or those with beta LEAFSCAN units) can really read SoC. People should avoid the use of gid-based SoC, as once the true SoC is available, this real number is not going to match what Gidmeters report.

-Phil
 
RegGuheert said:
I believe that 1 GID is 0.33333% of the NEW capacity of your battery such that a charge to 300 GIDs when new would equal a 100% charge. Also, at 80 Wh/GID, 300 GIDs equals 24 kWh. As Ingineer has told us, the 100% setting is really 93.6% of the total. That is why a new LEAF has 281 GIDs with a 100% charge.

Based on this belief, I would say TickTock's 80% charge ending at 183 means that he has 61% of his toal new battery capacity when he charges to 80%. When he charges to 100% (93.6%) he has 74.6% of new capacity. Both numbers are approximately 19% lower than what would be expected from a NEW LEAF battery.

ETA: This makes a little more sense if you figure an 80% charge is 232 GIDs. That equals 77.3% of full, not 80%. Now the ratios for TickTock's readings are correct: 61/77.3=74.6/93.6=79%

ETA2: If that 79% number is correct, he is close to the second bar, which is at 78.75% IIRC.
A charge set to 80% stops at 80% SoC (real SoC, not what Gidmeters report), whereas a "full" charge usually is stopped from 94-95% SoC. So the difference is only ~15% of the total pack capacity. A charge to true 100% SoC would give you about 24kWh, but the battery ECU is more interested in making the pack last long, (or at least attempting to, Sorry Phoenix!) so it never allows that truly "full" charge.

Packs that routinely see 80% charges are usually more out of balance, so the initial full charge is usually less than even 94% until it gets a chance to rebalance. This will also make a full-charge Gid reading artificially low. For those attempting to assess capacity with Gids, several full charges in a row may be needed to peak your Gids to the real level.

-Phil
 
One other factor to consider, is that it appears that a hot pack will not fully charge. I've noticed on a few occasions less charge if my pack is warmer than normal.

So it may very well be that when it cools off some lost "capacity" will return, though unfortunately I don't expect cars with lost capacity bars to regain them.

-Phil
 
Ingineer said:
Packs that routinely see 80% charges are usually more out of balance, so the initial full charge is usually less than even 94% until it gets a chance to rebalance. This will also make a full-charge Gid reading artificially low. For those attempting to assess capacity with Gids, several full charges in a row may be needed to peak your Gids to the real level.
Very interesting. Where did you get this nugget? Beta Leafscan feedback? :D
 
Stoaty said:
Ingineer said:
Packs that routinely see 80% charges are usually more out of balance, so the initial full charge is usually less than even 94% until it gets a chance to rebalance. This will also make a full-charge Gid reading artificially low. For those attempting to assess capacity with Gids, several full charges in a row may be needed to peak your Gids to the real level.
Very interesting. Where did you get this nugget? Beta Leafscan feedback? :D

have seen AND reported the same thing. i dont even do 80% charges. i simply plug in a few hours a day every few days or so. but do do 100% every so often to check my GID count. and yesterday it was 272 which is lowest ive seen, but it normally takes me 2-3 charges to 100% to get back to my 280

now i did not charge to 100% today since i only drove 25 miles yesterday and figure to do about the same today. but due to possible concerns over permanent loss i will charge to 100% for tomorrow to see where i am at
 
So here's my question...should I do anything? I assume the dealer cannot do anything about it, right? I never needed all the range (with some exception of course), so I am not worried (yet). I hate the fact that there is anything "negative" about my EV experience, but the sky isn't falling and I don't want to make a mountain out of a molehill (after all, everyone knew the battery wasn't going to last forever).

I assume someone from Nissan reads this and is counting like the rest of us, right?
 
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