"Can you drive that electric car in the rain?" and other ???

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keydiver said:
Most of the time I have seen cars stalled in high water it is because they inhaled too much water into the air intake.
Sure, but then you need to explain to me how my car started right up after the Jeep behind me pushed me out of the puddle, some 30 seconds after my car stalled. (It took about 30 secs for me to get out of the car, waded back to him, asked him to push me, then get back in my car. Maybe one minute, tops.)

keydiver said:
They are usually very low, right behind a headlight where they can scoop up water too easily.
All the cars I have seen and worked on have their air filter in the higher part of the engine compartment (1983 Rabbit GTI, 1995 GTI VR6, all air cooled Beetles and Porsches, all BMW fours and sixes, etc.) or right on top of the engine (2005 MkV GTI, any Detroit V8, etc.). In fact, the air filter, being one of the few parts serviceable by the casual car owner, has always been up high in the engine compartment. I invite you to point to examples of engines that has their air filter "very low". I'd be surprised if you can point to more than a handful. I find the notion that any engineer would situate an air filter where it can "scoop up water too easily" not very believable.

keydiver said:
In many cases it will not just stall the motor but hydrolock it, so you can't even crank it over. If you do it with too much power applied it can even break rods or other engine parts, since you can't compress water.
Or, the other thing that may have happened to you was water on old spark plug wires, which will make them arc over to ground or each other.
See my umpteenth note above about the car starting right up within a minute of stalling.


Ingineer said:
Several things; the 1983 GTI had a distributor. No points, a reluctor and transistorized coil switch, but still a distributor and spark plug wires. This is the most likely cause for stalling.
It does have a distributor. I stand corrected. However, 1. it's a Hall effect distributor not a mechanical one, and 2. it's at about the cam cover level, i.e. immediately underneath the hood. If it got wet enough to stall the engine, I would have expected to see Noah's Ark come drifting by. Also, I haven't heard a good explanation as to why, if the problem was electricals getting wet, the car would start up within less than a minute, far less time than needed to dry out any amount of water significant enough to have caused a stall in the first place?

Ingineer said:
Exhaust back pressure with a foot or 2 of water will not cause any piston engine to stall, this is definitely not the cause!
-Phil
Whether an engine would stall in water depends on so many factor that I cant't see how one can categorically say, yes they will (as I did in the beginning) or no, they won't. It depends on: the engine's size, the RPM (a 6L V8 moves a lot more air a lot more forcefully at idle than a 1.8L inline four), length and volume of exhaust tract, probably even the engine's state of tune (how much overlap in intake and exhaust valve timing, etc.).


keydiver said:
Most of the time I have seen cars stalled in high water it is because they inhaled too much water into the air intake.
Nekota said:
Add to that the water spray from the fan, wheels and in particular a burst of steam from hot exhaust manifold and you have killed the oxygen supply to the ICE.
I don't buy that either. Water injection to reduce detonation is common in drag racing. I don't believe "a burst of steam" is enough to stall an engine. And I don't know what kind of cars you're referring to, but I can't think of any street-going car that has its radiator and its fans, or any kind of fans, below its sill line.

keydiver said:
By the time you extract the vehicle from the water, it's recovered from the ingress of water vapor and ready to run.
Within 30 seconds to one minute?
 
davewill said:
As far as lightning, I wouldn't want my expensive car plugged in during a lightning storm.
Actually, most lightning-related problems with electrical appliances blowing up are caused by improper grounding. Coming from a broadcast background, where radio towers get many direct hits per year, I believe the key to keeping equipment from blowing up is proper grounding. It will vastly reduce the chances of problems.
 
Well, my Blizzaks from my former Mazda are now bolted up to my leaf. No real problems. The Leaf tires are a 205/50R16 and my Blizzaks are a 205/60R16. They are a tad taller than the stock tires and will make my speedo off my about 6%. At 60 on the speedo, I'll actually be driving 64. This is more than I'd like, but since I already have the tires and rims, I'll live with it.

I'll be driving my usual commute route this weekend to see how the range / efficiency compares and I'll post back here. I'll also try to see if I can post some photos.
 
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FairwoodRed said:
Well, my Blizzaks from my former Mazda are now bolted up to my leaf. No real problems. The Leaf tires are a 205/50R16 and my Blizzaks are a 205/60R16. They are a tad taller than the stock tires and will make my speedo off my about 6%. At 60 on the speedo, I'll actually be driving 64. This is more than I'd like, but since I already have the tires and rims, I'll live with it.

I doubt it as most Leaf speedometers seems to be off by 7-8%. 6% taller tires should make the speed read nearly correct.

BTW, the avg.speed function in the trip computer displays correct speed! So it you want to see how much the speedo is off, use cruise control to hold the car at a steady speed after resetting the avg.speed. After a few seconds you can read out the correct speed in the avg.speed display. It reads identical to my Garmin GPS.
 
jkirkebo said:
BTW, the avg.speed function in the trip computer displays correct speed! So it you want to see how much the speedo is off, use cruise control to hold the car at a steady speed after resetting the avg.speed. After a few seconds you can read out the correct speed in the avg.speed display. It reads identical to my Garmin GPS.
This sounds like a great entry in the Tips and Tricks thread.
 
jkirkebo said:
After a few seconds you can read out the correct speed in the avg.speed display. It reads identical to my Garmin GPS.
Most GPS systems are extremely accurate. I would suggest comparing it against a GPS reading.
 
ebill3 said:
Whem my LEAF speedo says 60, the Garmin says 59.

Bill

Is your odometer consistent with the speedometer, or correct?

I am still getting the (correct) odometer results that I reported below.


...I rechecked 2 other recent drives of 85-105 miles and each time CW has erred, under-reporting distance traveled, as compared with both my odometer and Google Maps, by 2.5%, +/- 0.1%...

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=5423&start=10" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
I can find no penalty for putting Blizzak's on my Leaf.

Friday, my dash effeciency was 3.3. On Saturday, it was 3.7. On Monday/Tuesday, it was 3.4. There are a few reasons that can explain the variances, but the part to take away is that none of my tests shows a worse reading - they were all better than before.

So to me, changing the tires had no effect on range.
 
FairwoodRed said:
Well, my Blizzaks from my former Mazda are now bolted up to my leaf. No real problems. The Leaf tires are a 205/50R16 and my Blizzaks are a 205/60R16. They are a tad taller than the stock tires and will make my speedo off my about 6%. At 60 on the speedo, I'll actually be driving 64. This is more than I'd like, but since I already have the tires and rims, I'll live with it.

I'll be driving my usual commute route this weekend to see how the range / efficiency compares and I'll post back here. I'll also try to see if I can post some photos.


Tirerack shows the OEM tire for the 2011 leaf as 205/55/16 are yours really 205/50/16 or was that a typo? I'm assuming your blizzaks are WS70.

865 205/50/16 Bridgestone Ecopia EP422
837 205/55/16 Bridgestone Ecopia EP422
812 205/60/16 Bridgestone Blizzak WS70
 
FairwoodRed said:
it was a typo. My stock tires are a 55 aspect ratio.

OK, then the Blizzaks are only 3% off vs the stock tires so your speedometer won't be as far off as you said. Dunno on the Leaf which RPM is the most accurate but you should be pretty close with those snow tires.
 
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