New Owner of Pre-owned 2012 Leaf SL

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ssinghleaf

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2015
Messages
5
Hello everyone,

I bought a used 2012 Leaf SL about a month ago. I'm in Fremont, CA and the car is a local car form Sunnyvale Nissan originally (lease return with 12,300 miles at purchase). I have some questions/concerns about the car:

1. Only one of the two intelligent keys works. Is there a way to activate the second one? I looked in the owner's manual, but couldn't find anything. We bought the car from a used car dealer, who bought it from a Nissan lease return auction. Would I have to take it to the regular Nissan dealer (free to fix)?

2. Can someone explain the difference between the two different battery warranties (the 5 year/60,000 mile warranty and the 8 year/100,000 mile ones)? From what I understood, the 5 year one is for the actually capacity loss (if the car's bars goes to the only 8/12 bars, then Nissan would replace/fix the battery). Is this correct? In that case, what is the 8 year warranty for then?

3. We plan on getting the windows tinted, especially the rear hatch and passenger windows, since the owner's manual says only the windshield and front windows have UV reducing solar glass. Does know the specific stats on the UV/heat reduction of the front windows? Or, should I plan on tinting everything?

Thanks for the help.
 
Check the battery inside the key fob first. It probably just needs replaced. I had to replace the original fob battery on my sisters 2012 Sentra a couple months ago.

If the cut key inside both of the fobs fit the door lock, then they both should already be programmed to the car. Programming has to be done by a dealer, and all key fobs have to be present when the programming is done.
 
ssinghleaf said:
2. Can someone explain the difference between the two different battery warranties (the 5 year/60,000 mile warranty and the 8 year/100,000 mile ones)? From what I understood, the 5 year one is for the actually capacity loss (if the car's bars goes to the only 8/12 bars, then Nissan would replace/fix the battery). Is this correct? In that case, what is the 8 year warranty for then?

3. We plan on getting the windows tinted, especially the rear hatch and passenger windows, since the owner's manual says only the windshield and front windows have UV reducing solar glass. Does know the specific stats on the UV/heat reduction of the front windows? Or, should I plan on tinting everything?
Click to expand...

The 100,000 mile battery warranty covers you if the car dies unexpectedly and just won't move because the battery failed completely.

I suspect from my research on getting my car tinted that the existing film is good for about 40% heat rejection with about 80% Visible Light Transmittance but I haven't found any documentation to say what the exact figures are.

I somehow missed that the back windows don't have that. I'll have to go test the rear vs front and see.

You'll want to tint the front windows also for multiple reasons if your state allows it but DON'T use the same level of tint front and back.

lower VLT % is darker so 35% tint is extremely dark and illegal in some states and many shops will install illegal tint levels either just to make more money or due to not understanding VLT math.

If the window has a 90% VLT from the factory and you add 35% VLT tint you end up with 31.5% VLT windows after tint. So pick a tint film with a higher VLT than the minimum the law requires to allow for the combined number to stay legal.
 
dhanson865 said:
...
lower VLT % is darker so 35% tint is extremely dark and illegal in some states and many shops will install illegal tint levels either just to make more money or due to not understanding VLT math.
Click to expand...
Between morons driving around talking on cell phones which studies clearly show makes their driving worse than if they were drunk, and then many having illegal window tint where you can't see what the other driver is doing, sure makes safe defensive driving hard to do :cry: :|
 
baustin said:
Check the battery inside the key fob first. It probably just needs replaced. I had to replace the original fob battery on my sisters 2012 Sentra a couple months ago.

If the cut key inside both of the fobs fit the door lock, then they both should already be programmed to the car. Programming has to be done by a dealer, and all key fobs have to be present when the programming is done.
Click to expand...
Another easy way to check whether the fob that doesn't work is just due to a dead battery is to use it to start the car: A dead fob can be held up to the start button and the RFID chip in it will be recognized and the start button can be pushed to start the car (I just use the end of the dead fob to push the start button once the fob is recognized).

If this works, the extra fob is, indeed, the correct one for the car.
 
Thanks for all the information. I totally forgot to reply back to this thread. The forum is really slow for some reason. I couldn't even login for the first few times.

It was just a battery issue for the second key fob. I replaced it. It works now fine.

Yeah, the front windows have a special/different coding or numbers on them vs. what's on the rear windows. The main difference is "UV CCC A000751" on the front windows, while the rear windows say "A001686 10S Temperlite." The local tint shops I know have readers that can tell you what percentage of heat/UV rays are getting through. Anyways, here in California, the legal tint rules are maximum 70% in the front (nothing allowed on windshield) and 5% (limo tint) for the rear. But, I know in my sister's Honda Accord, which is dark gray, she put 50% in the front windows and 5% in the rear windows. She never had a problem with being pulled over or cited. The car is almost ten years old. I guess it wouldn't be obvious on dark-colored cars, like blue, black, or gray. Obviously, in a white pearl Nissan Leaf, the tint would be obvious. I do care more about UV/heat reduction than the darkness of standard tints though.
 
ssinghleaf said:
Hello everyone,

I bought a used 2012 Leaf SL about a month ago. I'm in Fremont, CA and the car is a local car form Sunnyvale Nissan originally (lease return with 12,300 miles at purchase). I have some questions/concerns about the car:

1. Only one of the two intelligent keys works. Is there a way to activate the second one? I looked in the owner's manual, but couldn't find anything. We bought the car from a used car dealer, who bought it from a Nissan lease return auction. Would I have to take it to the regular Nissan dealer (free to fix)?

My second fob was dead I put in a new battery.

2. Can someone explain the difference between the two different battery warranties (the 5 year/60,000 mile warranty and the 8 year/100,000 mile ones)? From what I understood, the 5 year one is for the actually capacity loss (if the car's bars goes to the only 8/12 bars, then Nissan would replace/fix the battery). Is this correct? In that case, what is the 8 year warranty for then?

3. We plan on getting the windows tinted, especially the rear hatch and passenger windows, since the owner's manual says only the windshield and front windows have UV reducing solar glass. Does know the specific stats on the UV/heat reduction of the front windows? Or, should I plan on tinting everything?

I'm tinting them all, front side windows will be lighter than the back two and hatch window, which will be limo tint.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
 

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