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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:14 pm 
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I'm curious among the people who feel capable of both doing wiring and building simple electronic kits, what would the interest level be in just building your own EVSE and installing it? If all of the AC path items such as the NEMA box, 240VAC GFCI, relays, and the chord/J1772 receptacle could be bought, controlling those would avoid most UL issues since they are all UL approved already as purchased. I'm not sure of the UL requirements for a home self built and installed system would be? If one has the time and enjoys it, I'm just guessing but it shouldn't cost more than $400-$500 installed if you do it yourself. I believe if I could find the J1772 connector at a reasonable price, its very doable. Opinions? Interest?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:52 pm 
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Location: Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA
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I am also considering such options, watching for suitable parts, and for the first Level 1 EVSE available to purchase.

The NEC625 says something like the parts and system need to be "listed", presumably for the intended use. Or, something similar.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 8:57 pm 
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Location: Fremont, CA
I am also interested in building from a kit. If you have information of available parts and instructions pls share! :)

Thx.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 9:36 pm 
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I'm just looking at it but it looks pretty straightforward.

Basically what I'm thinking about is a NEMA box with off the shelf 40A 240V GFCIs available for pool and other applications, then followed by optically coupled Solid State Relays to shut of the 240V when the Pilot tone state is such. A small lump UL approved power supply would pull isolated 5V and 12V off one leg of the 240VAC and power a small micro-controller board. Then I would write some simple basic or C code to generate the 1KHz tone and control its duty cycle. The micro would also turn the SSRs on and off, light some LEDs ( like on most commercial units) and have a switch to indicate Level 1 12A, Level 1 16A, Level 2 32A. It would be wired to your panel via THHN #8 wire inside EMT and terminate in the box on the GFCIs. Then the GFCIs would be connected to the SSRs and they would go to the 20 foot flexible #8 and smaller control wire as per the spec. The micro board would be floating and drive the pilot and SSRs optically isolated. The code to monitor the EVSE state on plug-in, control the 240VAC and send the appropriate duty cycle would be simple. One can buy a micro board for $29.95 with breadboard area for some opto-couplers and the interface circuitry. Other than finding the J1772 connector itself and its cable and choosing and programming the micro, its not that complicated.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:09 pm 
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Something along these lines looking but different guts:

http://www.stefanoparis.com/piaev/WhyWeNeedPlugIns/2009.05.17MilbankInstalls/2009.05.17MilbankInstalls.html

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 10:10 am
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Location: Sacramento Area
Delivery Date: 19 Jan 2011
Leaf Number: 000215
And ... what you want is a PORTABLE EVSE:

I know of a brilliant electrical engineer. His name is Martin Eberhard. :P

He had similar thoughts. (Great minds think alike ? ;) ).

It's a great design. Robust hardware. Works with both 120V and 240V, up to 40A. Incorporates some nice fundamental design ideas -- for example, swappable pig-tails which tell the electronics what current to expect (instead of a user switch) based on the type of receptacle plugged into. Does need some adjustment for LEAF, since pilot signal at 120V defaults to 16A (need to provide a 12A option). Includes thermal sensor in pigtail. I provide these links on an AS-IS basis for reference only -- disclaiming any liability for passing on these posts. Use the info at your own risk ... but it could be a good starting point.

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php?t=2889

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showpost ... tcount=106

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php?t=3099

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:36 pm 
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pgrovetom wrote:


Guys, I am learning quite a lot from all these links. Awesome!

Is anyone willing to take pictures and do a tech write-up of how to install your own panel from a set of "best-in-class" electrical components? How about developing a "Kit" list and putting up a group buy?

Thx!!!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:44 pm 
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Location: Fremont, CA
LEAFer wrote:
And ... what you want is a PORTABLE EVSE:

I know of a brilliant electrical engineer. His name is Martin Eberhard. :P

He had similar thoughts. (Great minds think alike ? ;) ).

It's a great design. Robust hardware. Works with both 120V and 240V, up to 40A. Incorporates some nice fundamental design ideas -- for example, swappable pig-tails which tell the electronics what current to expect (instead of a user switch) based on the type of receptacle plugged into. Does need some adjustment for LEAF, since pilot signal at 120V defaults to 16A (need to provide a 12A option). Includes thermal sensor in pigtail. I provide these links on an AS-IS basis for reference only -- disclaiming any liability for passing on these posts. Use the info at your own risk ... but it could be a good starting point.

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php?t=2889

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showpost ... tcount=106

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php?t=3099


Based on the Tesla's portable EVSE, would you be able to estimate how much it would cost for a similar one for the Leaf?

Thx.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:05 am 
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Location: Sacramento Area
Delivery Date: 19 Jan 2011
Leaf Number: 000215
mxp wrote:
Based on the Tesla's portable EVSE, would you be able to estimate how much it would cost for a similar one for the Leaf?

Thx.

I am aware that Martin sold it close to cost for around $800, which excludes the Tesla Charge Port connector (good, because it's expensive and we need to substitute with J1772 anyway), but also includes several "pigtails" (the Marinco California Standard versions are expensive items), but I don't know which or how many that $800 includes. Surprisingly evcomponents shows a $750 price, which I would have expected to be higher (a 20% profit?), but then again it only shows 3 pigtails. (Again the Tesla connector is not included, because the part is just about impossible to obtain, and the customer is expected to provide it for the "upgrade" from the Tesla MC120 they already have.)

So ... somewhat of a guess, but drawing on facts I have ... I'd say $500 for a 25' version with a single pigtail (let's say NEMA 14-50, the most popular for RV parks), including the J1772 plug on the other end (for which I don't have a price but assume $50). Add almost $75-$100 for another pigtail, maybe for a dryer outlet, (because it's widely available), NEMA 10-30 or 14-30.

But which dryer outlet to choose ? :? And in the Midwest there are others in use. And you might want a 10-50 (welding) option ... That's where the pigtail flexibility gets expensive, because you can't always anticipate what receptacle you might "meet" on the road.

Hope this helps.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 8:10 am
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Location: Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA
Delivery Date: 29 Mar 2011
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All the home-brew and "kit" talk is great for education, but illegal (without UL listing of the completed system) to use for EV charging.

Also, there are dangerous, even deadly) voltages and currents involved, so PLEASE be careful.

Part of the UL evaluation, I believe, is failure-mode hazards.
The question is usually, if any one component (or sub-section) fails in any way, will the power be removed from the "charge-plug" and cable?

Another UL issue is: what happens if the "exposed" parts are rolled over by a car, or the car rolls away?

A third UL question is: what are the shock and fire risks, for the probable environment and uses?

How did a toaster ever get UL listed?

So, again, safety and FIRE danger are two VERY important issues. Use EXTREME Caution, PLEASE.

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