Bent edge of 16" Wheels

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Arlington

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
95
Anyone else have the problem that repeated parallel-parking contact of the rear passenger wheel has bent/crimped the edge of the 16" wheel (these are aluminum, right? I have a 2013 S with plastic hubcaps over ugly wheels).

What would you do about 3" worth of damage that sometimes causes the rubber to squeak once per rotation?

Are the 16" wheels efficient/lightweight/low-mass? Can I make an economic case for upgrading them to alloy wheels of some sort?
 
If you have hubcaps, then those are steel wheels.

So... what would stop you from simply ruining brand new alloy wheels in the same way?

Actually, one thing that helps is to buy wider tires. If the sidewalls of the tires come out farther than the edge of the wheel, you'll hopefully just scrape up the tire a little. But if you bent the wheel, it sounds like you slammed into the curb pretty hard.

How bent are the wheels? Can you post a picture? I've driven on a bent wheel (my old snow tire wheels for my Leaf), and I've never had a problem with the tire squeaking. Are you sure it's the tire? I'm wondering if you hit hard enough to have damaged the wheel bearing.
 
Your problem shows that you need to change your parking habits.... Hitting and scraping the front and rear tires and rims on the sidewalk curb is very bad for your tires, rims, and more importantly the alignment of your car. Most people don't realize that a car's wheels are held on with very thin, and easy to damage joints and rods. The wheels are able to handle the weight of the car and the forces of the car turning, but not much more. When you hit or scrape the delicate wheels on an immovable cement curb you are asking for expensive repairs to your car. It is much better to park without hitting the curb, and your car will like you for it....
 
Boston metro uses tall, square granite curbs with a sharp edge (when new). Apparently life cycle costs are way better for granite --. Which can last 100+ years here despite the freeze-thaw cycles and salt. after 50 years the edge gets smoothed/polished--so most of it is fine, but when new it is sharp.

So even the gentle parallel parking tap that works for finding concrete or asphalt curbs in other areas can dig in. My alloy wheels that I am used to present a larger flatter contact surface--and so scratch a little in 12 years (2004 Sienna) but don't crimp like the Leaf S.
 
Arlington said:
Boston metro uses tall, square granite curbs with a sharp edge (when new). Apparently life cycle costs are way better for granite --. Which can last 100+ years here despite the freeze-thaw cycles and salt. after 50 years the edge gets smoothed/polished--so most of it is fine, but when new it is sharp.

So even the gentle parallel parking tap that works for finding concrete or asphalt curbs in other areas can dig in. My alloy wheels that I am used to present a larger flatter contact surface--and so scratch a little in 12 years (2004 Sienna) but don't crimp like the Leaf S.

I grew up in Boston and scraping the curbs to find them would fail you on your drivers license road test. Curbing your tires and rims runs you the risk of blowout and suspension damage. If your damaging the relatively sturdy 16 inch steel wheels than your really going to chew up the 17 inch aluminum alloys. Curbing a tire against a sharp granite curb is a minor accident not a normal driving practice. You really need to put ovals on your side view mirrors or curb alarms/feelers on so you can better avoid the practice of hitting the curb to figure out where it is. You don't want to experience a blowout when you get out on the South East Expressway or the North Station Overpass.

On a 16 inch rim with a relatively flat sidewall of a 55 series low profile LRR tire on it you are also more likely to damage the rim and not just tire than one may be more accustomed to on a Sienna with a truck tire.
 
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