My DIY L6-30R 240v 30 AMP home install

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Comments:

The building wire you are using must be in conduit.
The cable or conduit you use must be properly attached to each enclosure.
The EGC must be green or bare, not white.
The ungrounded conductors in the building wire you are using must not be white or green.
In a cable or cord, it is OK to reidentify a white wire as another color to use it for an ungrounded conductor.
There is probably more that I didn't notice immediately.

I strongly suggest you educate yourself much more on electrical work and redo the installation, or you hire an electrician.

Cheers, Wayne
 
^I was expecting that. But this works as is and I am happy with it. I am certainly not going to redo it because of the colors, or because it's not in a conduit or attached to the box. It's a temp install until I move anyway.
 
Andrei said:
It's a temp install until I move anyway.
That installation will last your whole life! Of course, I say that with the following adage in mind: "build a man a fire and he'll be warm for a night, set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life."
 
Everything is spec for its intended purpose including the wires. It works. If having the right colors, a conduit, or attaching the cables to the box is worth $100 than hire someone.

I AM NOT paying anything to ANYONE.
 
Looks to me like he just took the jacket off the SJOOW, from the breaker to the outlet, romex would have been cheaper.
 
Please, at least put a bushing in the hole at the bottom of your panel enclosure so the sheetmetal edge cannot rub through the insulation of your wires.
 
miimura said:
Please, at least put a bushing in the hole at the bottom of your panel enclosure so the sheetmetal edge cannot rub through the insulation of your wires.
I would do that on a boat or anything that is moving. The panel or walls don't move to cause those wires to rub or get cut and cross.
pchilds said:
Looks to me like he just took the jacket off the SJOOW, from the breaker to the outlet, romex would have been cheaper.
I did. It's $1.76 per foot for the 10-3 300 volt 30 amp wire I'm using.
 
Your circuit breaker is most likely not listed to accept the fine stranding of the SJO cable, and therefore the termination can get hot as a result of the improper termination.
 
Andrei said:
I did. It's $1.76 per foot for the 10-3 300 volt 30 amp wire I'm using.
At Big Orange, 10/2 Romex is $0.89/foot and it's legal to use directly inside the wall.

Your installation has an inadequate margin of safety and should be redone according to code.

Wayne
 
Rauv said:
Your circuit breaker is most likely not listed to accept the fine stranding of the SJO cable, and therefore the termination can get hot as a result of the improper termination.
That is a proper concern to have, but I used the same specs with a TIG welder on 20 amps without heat issues.
 
+5 to wwhitney's several posts

The law and electrical codes are not always perfectly logical.
However, it is usually very little extra effort to do it to code.
Even the permit and inspection are usually not very expensive.

If fire insurance investigators find your addition, with no permit or record
of inspection of the new wiring, the insurance might not pay.

Or, perhaps you are renting the house and do not care?
 
Andrei said:
Questions?
Why would you do it is so incorrectly :shock: :eek:
Even if it is "temporary" and you are renting, the code violation errors put you and others lives in danger.
If anything bad happens and you have managed to survive, the owner and the fire department will sue you and win.
And you have now published on the Internet forever how you have done this wrong and refuse to correct anything about it.
You really need several different kinds of help.
 
If you knew you were doing everything half-assed and had no intention of making it right, why did you bother to ask for input?

P.S. I hope you're not expecting to plug a 30a EVSE into that circuit on top of all the other mistakes.
 
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