GE Wattstation - Installation

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RCEV13

Active member
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
38
Location
SF Bay Area
Last weekend I installed a GE Wattstation. I purchased the unit from Lowe's after they matched Home Depot's price: $849.99.

I went the owner-builder permit route which costs: $366 (1 new receptacle, 1 electric car charging station).

I ran 4 individual #8 wires (red, black, white, green) through a bonded, earthed (to grounding rod), 35ft metal conduit running on the outside base of the house down the driveway. You can't run NM (indoor romex wire) down an outdoor metal conduit. I also discovered that a NEMA 6-50 plug does not require a Neutral (white) wire. The GE Wattstation manual states that a neutral wire is required, but that is only if you are hard wiring the unit (you have the option). I used the plug-in option.

I wired it up, dropped in a new 40amp breaker for the dedicated EVSE line, and powered up the EVSE. On start up the unit momentarily flashes green, then orange, then lights up the LED ring. When plugging in the car there is a loud-ish click of a relay in the EVSE at the start and a similar click upon completion.

I also built a locking wood cabinet to protect it and the outlet from weather, children, and energy thieves. It took me the entire weekend to do the install.

Total Cost: $1274.65 + Permits ( $366) = $1640.65

Best electrician estimate for an end-of-driveway install was $1000 + $250 to handle the permit process + the permit cost + the EVSE cost (+tax) is about $2600 + cost of building a custom cabinet ($500?).

I probably saved around $1500. But I worked about 20hrs on it....so my time = $75/hr. So maybe I didn't really save anything, but I learned a lot.

So far the Wattstation works just fine.

The End.

RCEV13_EVSE.jpg
 
I don't know the status of the 2013 LEAFs, but there was a software update available from Nissan for the 2011 and 2012 models that would prevent the on-board battery charging system from malfunctioning and not working when using a GE Wattstation. You can search the forum and the web for the particulars, but I would definitely ask your dealer if your car has been updated to work properly with the GE Wattstation EVSE...
 
I've had my GE Watt station since I bought my Leaf in Jan 2012 with no issue so I'd assume that any Leaf bought after Feb 2012 has the update.

I do like the clunk the station gives off. It tells me when the car's done heating/cooling the cabin in the morning :cool:
 
RCEV13 said:
The GE Wattstation manual states that a neutral wire is required, but that is only if you are hard wiring the unit (you have the option).

Not sure you have an option if it's outside?
 
I'm trying to imagine a technical reason that the neutral wire would be required, but not if as a plug-in. Doesn't make sense to me; either it has parts that run on 120V, in which case, it's required, or it's pure 240V, in which case, the neutral has no function.
 
travisty said:
I've had my GE Watt station since I bought my Leaf in Jan 2012 with no issue so I'd assume that any Leaf bought after Feb 2012 has the update.

I do like the clunk the station gives off. It tells me when the car's done heating/cooling the cabin in the morning :cool:
You've just been lucky...although not outrageously so since most people have had no problem. They didn't even figure out there was a problem until July 2012, and the first individual updates happened in Fall 2012, I think it a safe bet that NO 2011s or 2012s came with the fix.
 
Rauv said:
I have 300+ charges to date with no issues with the GE unit. Fingers no longer crossed.
Out of curiosity, do you use the Wattstation's power button? See http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=250828#p250828" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; as to why I'm curious.

That said, if one wants to install an EVSE at home to use w/a Leaf, I still wouldn't buy the Wattstation. It seems that all the other ones aren't associated w/mass killing of the OBC. Yeah, some other w/other EVSEs have had their OBCs die, but still.

I'd figure the safest bet would be the Nissan-branded Aerovironment EVSE or one of the same model w/o the branding.
 
cwerdna said:
Rauv said:
I have 300+ charges to date with no issues with the GE unit. Fingers no longer crossed.
Out of curiosity, do you use the Wattstation's power button? See http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=250828#p250828" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; as to why I'm curious.

My normal routine is to unlatch the plug from its 'holster", plug it into to Leaf and then turn on the power button on the Wattstation. Upon completion of charge, I remove the plug from the Leaf 'hot', place it back into the holster, and then turn the Wattstation power off.
 
I have a 2012 Leaf and a GE Wattstation since July 2012 and have had no issues. My normal routine is to turn the Wattstation on first and then plug it in. I also unplug it "hot" and then power off the Wattstation.
Living in Florida I do attempt to refrain from charging when I know there will be an electrical storm.
 
Updated original post with image of the process and final installation.

I also wanted to make one more point:

Before I installed the L2 I exclusively used a standard 120v outlet for trickle charging. As a result I calculated (roughly) based on my PG&E bill that I used about 20-23kw to put 8kw of charge into the battery every night. This amounts to approximately $90 per month (driving 1600miles per month - not counting charging at work for free). However charging at work has STOPPED...due to a policy review on the subject. This is why the L2 was needed since I would have to drive 82 miles on one full charge 5 days a week. Yesterday I got home with 11% remaining (I now record everything by Battery Capacity Percentage).

The point is that with the L2 there is less wasted energy during the charging process. I expect the car charging at home to cost about $29 per month.
 
Nice job on the install. Unfortunately, I think your biggest problem is going to be (consistently) driving 82 miles on a charge. Even now it appears you're hitting LBW (although you didn't state that specifically); as the car ages, I don't see how you'll make it without charging at work (or sometime during the day).
 
RCEV13 said:
Updated original post with image of the process and final installation.

Thanks for posting these pictures. I am in the process of installing my Wattstation and this helps. The main question I am struggling with is which way to mount the plug. I can fairly easily do it the same way you did, so the power cord goes down from the charging station. My concern is that this creates a path for moisture to run down the cord into the plug. The picture in the manual show the plug oriented the other way and set to the side of the station, which results in a nice loop in the power cord so water would drop down to the bottom of the loop.

My installation in on the inside of a detached garage, so theoretically would be free from water, and it would be a fair bit easier for me to run the wire from below and install the plug like you have it. On the other hand, I tend to be cautious about some things and think it might be worth the effort to do it the other way.

I would appreciate knowing what if any thoughts you had on how to put in the outlet and what if anything the inspector had to say.

Thank!
 
Two minor comments to OP:
1) I notice that the most current version (6/12) of the GE WattStation Wall Mount: Plug-in Version (model EVWSWBC) Installation Guide and also User Manual specify "Wall power receptacle with a weatherproof locking cover is required", whereas previous (07/11) versions of those manuals (older PDFs still linked to by Lowes at this time) only read "... is recommended.". In his pictures RCEV13 clearly has a cover over the receptacle (although locked would make it doubly secure, imo).

However, please ESPECIALLY note that the weatherproof locking cover is required regardless of whether the plug-in model is installed indoors or outdoors, i.e. it also serves the purpose of limiting ready access to the receptacle from children.

2) I think the installation instructions are rather terse, perhaps directed to a licensed electrician -- certainly not intended for the average homeowner (and in part warns "WattStation should be installed only a licensed contractor, and/or a licensed electrician in accordance with all applicable state, local and national electrical codes and standards. WattStation should be inspected by a qualified inspector prior to initial use. Under no circumstances will compliance with the information in this manual relieve the user of his/her responsibility to comply with all applicable codes or safety standards.").

The warning "Power feed must have a centrally grounded neutral in order for WattStation to function correctly" near the beginning of the User Manual (which covers both hardwired and plug-in models) seems to conflict with the specification near the end: "AC Power Input: 208-240VAC requiring only Line 1, Line 2 and Earth ground".

However, the fact that the only wires connected to the WattStation are referred to as "supply power and ground wires" seems to indicate that a "neutral" wire is not used for either model. Also I'm not aware of any EVSE that uses a neutral (i.e. can use 120v). This allows one to use less expensive cable (also likely to lead to fewer problems due to simplicity), like 8/2 AWG w/ground (i.e. 3 wire) that is most frequently used for Level 2 EVSEs.
 
MikeD said:
Two minor comments to OP:
1) I notice that the most current version (6/12) of the GE WattStation Wall Mount: Plug-in Version (model EVWSWBC) Installation Guide and also User Manual specify "Wall power receptacle with a weatherproof locking cover is required", whereas previous (07/11) versions of those manuals (older PDFs still linked to by Lowes at this time) only read "... is recommended.". In his pictures RCEV13 clearly has a cover over the receptacle (although locked would make it doubly secure, imo).

However, please ESPECIALLY note that the weatherproof locking cover is required regardless of whether the plug-in model is installed indoors or outdoors, i.e. it also serves the purpose of limiting ready access to the receptacle from children....

Also, sorry to pick on the OP but the picture seems to show the "weatherproof cover" is installed upside-down, defeating its purpose.
 
RCEV13 said:
Before I installed the L2 I exclusively used a standard 120v outlet for trickle charging. As a result I calculated (roughly) based on my PG&E bill that I used about 20-23kw to put 8kw of charge into the battery every night. This amounts to approximately $90 per month (driving 1600miles per month - not counting charging at work for free). However charging at work has STOPPED...due to a policy review on the subject. This is why the L2 was needed since I would have to drive 82 miles on one full charge 5 days a week. Yesterday I got home with 11% remaining (I now record everything by Battery Capacity Percentage).

The point is that with the L2 there is less wasted energy during the charging process. I expect the car charging at home to cost about $29 per month.

Some how I think your math on 20-23kw is way off. I'd guess it was about half that to put in 8kw?
 
Nubo said:
MikeD said:
Two minor comments to OP:
1) I notice that the most current version (6/12) of the GE WattStation Wall Mount: Plug-in Version (model EVWSWBC) Installation Guide and also User Manual specify "Wall power receptacle with a weatherproof locking cover is required", whereas previous (07/11) versions of those manuals (older PDFs still linked to by Lowes at this time) only read "... is recommended.". In his pictures RCEV13 clearly has a cover over the receptacle (although locked would make it doubly secure, imo).

However, please ESPECIALLY note that the weatherproof locking cover is required regardless of whether the plug-in model is installed indoors or outdoors, i.e. it also serves the purpose of limiting ready access to the receptacle from children....

Also, sorry to pick on the OP but the picture seems to show the "weatherproof cover" is installed upside-down, defeating its purpose.

So did the inspector sign off on it like that? It ought to be a non-issue since you've got it in that very nice box but I'd be surprised if they would sign off. It's really sad that your city charges so much for the permit. My city has a flat $105 EVSE permit fee.
 
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