OpenEVSE - Open Source Charging Station

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eHelmholtz said:
TonyWilliams said:
That's the only reason we even talk about 30/32 amp EVSE's, plus many of the J1772 cable assemblies are limited to 30/32 amps. Quick Charge Power offers J1772 plugs / cables in 32, 40, 50 and soon 80 amp assemblies.
The other reason that people talk about 32A EVSEs is because there are 40A circuits with 50A outlets (which meet code) or hardwired.

Yes, I know that's been discussed on the forum. The dumbest rule ever, building a substandard circuit that can be overloaded by the outlet rating. No markings required like; CAUTION: DUMB RULE ALLOWS YOU TO PLUG IN YOUR 50 AMP DEVICE, BUT CIRCUIT IS ONLY CAPABLE OF 40 AMPS. WATCH FOR SMOKE WHILST IN USE.

Dumb, dumb, dumb.
 
. . . and to add more confusion to this subject, there are actual commercially available EVSEs specifically rated for 32A. This one in particular, manufactured by Leviton, which I owned and recently sold to a friend:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-EVB32-M5L-Evr-Green-Charging-Station/dp/B00DG147MM

It came with a Leviton "40A" rated J1772 cable and charge port connector.

In two years, there has been significant price erosion on these commercial units. I paid almost the full list price ($1500) when I bought it from Home Depot Online. Now, it is selling for $799 online, which just goes to prove how much profit these things were selling for just a few years ago. I sold mine "used" for only $450. I think "open source" EVSEs have contributed mightily to the lowering of EVSE prices in general. Today's EV buyers are certainly in a much better position to save a lot of money on these things, but cost of an Electrician's services to install them remains rather significant.
 
TonyWilliams said:
Yes, I know that's been discussed on the forum. The dumbest rule ever, building a substandard circuit that can be overloaded by the outlet rating. No markings required like; CAUTION: DUMB RULE ALLOWS YOU TO PLUG IN YOUR 50 AMP DEVICE, BUT CIRCUIT IS ONLY CAPABLE OF 40 AMPS. WATCH FOR SMOKE WHILST IN USE.

Dumb, dumb, dumb.
Hence, it is prudent to have an EVSE that can be set to 32A for safety in the face of this rule. As an example, as Dsinned pointed out above, there are commercial units sold like this one:
61M31cFQNbL._SL1500_.jpg

It is a 32A EVSE with a NEMA 6-50 plug (50A plug).
 
What may also be "dumb" is the NEMA standards themselves. For example, one interpretation of the NEMA 14-50R standard is that this receptacle can be used "up to 50A". But, it is not as well understood by most consumers that the 50A rating does NOT apply to "continuous loads", in which the maximum current should not exceed 80% of the full load rating (i.e. 40A). Thus, it probably would have been better if NEMA spec'd the 14-50R (and mating 14-50P) as having a maximum "continuous" rating of 40A.

Apparently, at this AC power level possible loads were arc welders, curing ovens, boat winches and the like, only suppose to present a temporary higher load to the outlet, dedicated circuit wiring and protection device. Nevertheless, in the rapidly emerging world of electric vehicles and L2 EVSEs, this type of outlet could (and should) be thought of as a "40A only outlet".

I suspect most consumers (including EV owners) don't relate to maximum outlet ratings as much as the maximum rating of their circuit breaker or fuse protection, which again, does not make it clear how the protected circuit should be derated under continuous load.
 
eHelmholtz said:
TonyWilliams said:
Yes, I know that's been discussed on the forum. The dumbest rule ever, building a substandard circuit that can be overloaded by the outlet rating. No markings required like; CAUTION: DUMB RULE ALLOWS YOU TO PLUG IN YOUR 50 AMP DEVICE, BUT CIRCUIT IS ONLY CAPABLE OF 40 AMPS. WATCH FOR SMOKE WHILST IN USE.

Dumb, dumb, dumb.
Hence, it is prudent to have an EVSE that can be set to 32A for safety in the face of this rule. As an example, as Dsinned pointed out above, there are commercial units sold like this one:
It is a 32A EVSE with a NEMA 6-50 plug (50A plug).

So, we agree. Again, virtually ALL commercial units are 30/32 amps. Yes, you need to check the wiring before using 40 amps continuous on an unknown 50 amp circuit in the USA.

With JESLA, if you have a suspect 50 amp circuit with a NEMA 14-50, use the 14-30 plug for safety. You will need to remove the neutral pin from the 14-30. DO NOT THE REMOVE NEUTRAL FROM THE 14-50.
 
TonyWilliams said:
With JESLA, if you have a suspect 50 amp circuit with a NEMA 14-50, use the 14-30 plug for safety. You will need to remove the neutral pin from the 14-30. DO NOT THE REMOVE NEUTRAL FROM THE 14-50.
This is a good tip for those who have this EVSE but of course this would limit charging to 24A and not 32A like one could do using an OpenEVSE.
 
Nick Sayer implemented a power on test of the GFCI circuit to insure that it is working. I think that is a good thing even though I have never had a failure.

The current Barbouri version 4.21 supports this test. The terminals labeled rly2 go to the same port as the GFCI test with the same 330 ohm resistor.

 
Well the OpenEV store hit a milestone today. We banned our first customer from future orders.

OpenEV does require some level of skill to build and if a builder constantly demonstrates unsafe practices or carelessness, they are a danger to themselves and to others.

To date the the OpenEV store has sold 2500 boards, with a record 800 in the last 3 months (500 to a single customer in Europe). Most builders have no problem putting together the kit, and few require a couple of email and questions to get up and running.

OpenEVSE has what I believe is a great return/refund/support policy... This is a summary.

Returns in same condition 90 days.
"Quick Kit" 90 days. If there is an issue we will inspect, repair and return at no cost...(Most kit company nothing on kits and charge for repair)
"No Solder" build components 1 year...
Email support
Phone support (Schedules call back at request)
 
I just received a 50A current coil from Ebay. It is marked HWCT004 and it was $4.09 shipped from China.

It works perfectly with the openEVSE Current display.

I used RB of 27 ohms and a scale factor of 187. With those settings the clamp on meter and display agree with my 14.2A heatgun.

I usually use a 39 Ohm resistor with a 200 Ohm pot across it. In this case I set the resistance to exactly 27 Ohms since that is one of the entries in ver 3.2.2, the production OpenEVSE version.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251684861134?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

--

I just tried it with the latest development and it works fine. Ver D3.3.0
 
GlennD said:
I just received a 50A current coil from Ebay. It is marked HWCT004 and it was $4.09 shipped from China.

It works perfectly with the openEVSE Current display.

I used RB of 27 ohms and a scale factor of 187. With those settings the clamp on meter and display agree with my 14.2A heatgun.

I usually use a 39 Ohm resistor with a 200 Ohm pot across it. In this case I set the resistance to exactly 27 Ohms since that is one of the entries in ver 3.2.2, the production OpenEVSE version.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251684861134?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

--

I just tried it with the latest development and it works fine. Ver D3.3.0

Great news Glenn. The v2 board has been upgraded (now called v2.5) to measure current like the v3. Resistors have been added to both 5v and 12v keep the power supply running at min loading. Price is unchanged.
 
chris1howell said:
GlennD said:
I just received a 50A current coil from Ebay. It is marked HWCT004 and it was $4.09 shipped from China.

It works perfectly with the openEVSE Current display.

I used RB of 27 ohms and a scale factor of 187. With those settings the clamp on meter and display agree with my 14.2A heatgun.

I usually use a 39 Ohm resistor with a 200 Ohm pot across it. In this case I set the resistance to exactly 27 Ohms since that is one of the entries in ver 3.2.2, the production OpenEVSE version.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251684861134?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

--

I just tried it with the latest development and it works fine. Ver D3.3.0

Great news Glenn. The v2 board has been upgraded (now called v2.5) to measure current like the v3. Resistors have been added to both 5v and 12v keep the power supply running at min loading.

Price is unchanged.

That is good news. I added current measurement to a ver 2 board and it takes the skill of a brain surgeon to solder a wire on the A0 pin.
 
I just purchased mine, just a basic one with charging cable. Maybe i should have splurged on the next model up for customization options.
 
I just received an OpenEVSE Plus ver 2.5 board. I am struck by how small it is compared to the DIY board.

The Plus ver 2.5 is at the bottom, a DIY ver 2 board modified for 12V is in the middle and a Barbouri ver 4.21 board it at the top.

 
GlennD said:
I just received an OpenEVSE Plus ver 2.5 board. I am struck by how small it is compared to the DIY board.

The Plus ver 2.5 is at the bottom, a DIY ver 2 board modified for 12V is in the middle and a Barbouri ver 4.21 board it at the top.


The PLUS 2.5 is pretty small and considering the power supply module is integrated it allows for a compact Charging Station. At $69 it also represents a really good value. I have not checked the full BOM on the DIY boards recently but I would not be surprised if the Plus v2.5 is less expensive than the DIY and its Power Supply.
 
I just received 100 new poly-carbonate enclosures today. They are slightly larger than the basic model and have a cutout for a LCD and button. The enclosure comes with watertight seals and graphics are full color. The internal panel is pre-drilled for 30A components. Here is a picture...(Sorry for the poor quality, I will take better pictures tomorrow)

IMG_20141126_191337_1_grande.jpg
 
chris1howell said:
GlennD said:
I just received an OpenEVSE Plus ver 2.5 board. I am struck by how small it is compared to the DIY board.

The Plus ver 2.5 is at the bottom, a DIY ver 2 board modified for 12V is in the middle and a Barbouri ver 4.21 board it at the top.


The PLUS 2.5 is pretty small and considering the power supply module is integrated it allows for a compact Charging Station. At $69 it also represents a really good value. I have not checked the full BOM on the DIY boards recently but I would not be surprised if the Plus v2.5 is less expensive than the DIY and its Power Supply.

There is little doubt that purchasing the ver 2.5 board is cheaper if you lack most of the parts. I consider it at $65 an outstanding deal. I have generally given up on building boards. Now that it has built in current ability that removes my last need to roll my own.

The new case looks awesome! If my time was costing dollars then I would go to the pre cut case. Doing my own work is still cheaper. There is a whole series of different power meters on Ebay that I want to check out.
 
Rav4EVoom over at the myrav4 forum asked if the Poly case could withstand a drive over...

The answer is yes... I plan to test the diacast Aluminum Enclosure later this weekend.

I ran it over with a 2012 Nissan Leaf several times length wise, across the width, forward and backward. There was no permanent damage, just a little dirt on the enclosure and the button seal squeezed out (with no damage) when the enclosure was run over length wise.

IMG_20141128_121759_1_1024x1024.jpg


IMG_20141128_122016_1_1024x1024.jpg


IMG_20141128_121743_1_1024x1024.jpg
 
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