At what price would you buy a used Leaf given the range drop

We currently have less than a year remaining on our 2011 SL lease and exactly a year on our 2014 S, so I have been thinking about the next step. I intend to replace the 2014 with a 2017 that (hopefully) offers the better range option, but the 2011 I am considering just turning in due to the level of battery degradation it has suffered. I would really like to buy a used 2011 Leaf SL, but not for what I see them selling for through dealers and via reputable sellers on eBay. In my not-so-humble opinion, 2011 models should be no more than $11K in excellent shape with low mileage in southern regions, and maybe a BIT more in the PNW. The problem is that such a car would only work for me with the $6000 lizard battery that I would definitely have to install. This would put the cost at $17K max for a 3yr old car, which would be acceptable given the low mileage and "like new" range.

Does this sound reasonable? What do some of you think a reasonable price for a 2011 would be?

1. How much degradation do you have? How much longer can you go until you can't do the daily drive?

2. How much is your buyout? Are they willing to make a deal for you to keep it? Extend it? $6K worth of deal?

caffeinekid said:

...In my not-so-humble opinion, 2011 models should be no more than $11K in excellent shape with low mileage in southern regions, and maybe a BIT more in the PNW. ...
Does this sound reasonable? What do some of you think a reasonable price for a 2011 would be?

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I think $10,000 to $11,000 is a pretty good price for 2011 based on auction prices.
See http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=8354&hilit=2011+sales+prices&start=280#p404874" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
They are pretty cheap compared to what it costs to do a good electric vehicle conversion.

The ones that likely will still qualify for capacity warranty battery replacement are a very good deal.
But you have to be very careful and be certain they qualify.
Somewhat complicated to do that.

TimLee said:

The ones that likely will still qualify for capacity warranty battery replacement are a very good deal.
But you have to be very careful and be certain they qualify.
Somewhat complicated to do that.

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The normal way to handle that would be to make an offer based on the car *not* being eligible and having the seller prove that it is in order to bump up the price. So, drop $5k off the price and let them prove their case. Otherwise, walk away. The worst thing you can do, when spending money, is develop an emotional attachment to getting a particular thing in a particular way. All cars, not just other EVs, are in competition for my money. Now, if you are truly dedicated to getting an EV, then perhaps just going with a newer one under warranty would be a better option to limit your risk.

Yogi62 said:

1. How much degradation do you have? How much longer can you go until you can't do the daily drive?

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Degradation is down 2 bars with a real-world range of maybe 50 miles in the summertime. My 2014 by comparison with almost the same mileage does 80+ miles, even with relatively frequent 65mph freeway legs. My wife uses the 2011 for daily commutes of ~ 40 miles. She would be taking on the 2014 for the remainder of its lease while I would like to acquire a 2011 with a "like new" range since I do 80 to 140 miles a day (with eVgo QC).

2. How much is your buyout? Are they willing to make a deal for you to keep it? Extend it? $6K worth of deal?

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Buyout is something around $15K.

TimLee said:

caffeinekid said:

...In my not-so-humble opinion, 2011 models should be no more than $11K in excellent shape with low mileage in southern regions, and maybe a BIT more in the PNW. ...
Does this sound reasonable? What do some of you think a reasonable price for a 2011 would be?

Click to expand...

I think $10,000 to $11,000 is a pretty good price for 2011 based on the auction prices, based on auction prices.
See http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=8354&hilit=2011+sales+prices&start=280#p404874" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
They are pretty cheap compared to what it costs to do a good electric vehicle conversion.

The ones that likely will still qualify for capacity warranty battery replacement are a very good deal.
But you have to be very careful and be certain they qualify.
Somewhat complicated to do that.

Click to expand...

I am resigned to simply replacing the pack if there are 2 bars or more missing since the 2011 never did get anywhere near the real-world range of the current array. I am looking at the "out the door" price of no more than $17K, which is on the high end of what I would be willing to pay for this vehicle given the age. I am not really interested in retail speculation or paying a dealer $3K for simply picking one up at Manheim or whomever and offering it for sale.

I find the $11,838.40 for mine to be the price I would pay seeing as I am buying my lease out. Probably still more than it is worth, but I think it is a good deal to own the car out right even though I am down to 78%ish battery capacity according to my LeafDD.

So you need need a QC a fresh battery, and you are looking to trade it in on a hoped for Leaf with better range in 2017.

If the 2017 is late, or they are priced high again for early adopters again you might need this car to make it until 2018.

I wonder if a 2011 is the best model to start with, or for a little you get a more efficient 2013/2014 with a better battery and have something worth trading in 2017/2018. I am sure you have already looked at that, but I would be interested in hearing what you might have found. Also has anyone actually gotten a paid replacement installed yet?

Yogi62 said:

So you need need a QC a fresh battery, and you are looking to trade it in on a hoped for Leaf with better range in 2017.

If the 2017 is late, or they are priced high again for early adopters again you might need this car to make it until 2018.

I wonder if a 2011 is the best model to start with, or for a little you get a more efficient 2013/2014 with a better battery and have something worth trading in 2017/2018. I am sure you have already looked at that, but I would be interested in hearing what you might have found. Also has anyone actually gotten a paid replacement installed yet?

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Well, we have the 2014 S that has decent range, but lacks cruise control and practical rear monitor (mandatory for us in retrospect) with lease expiration of 2.2016 and residual around $16K. If nothing is available with a better range by then, we plan to just turn it in and wait since we also have an old Prius that we could use in the interim. The 2011 SL lease expires later this year. It has a residual of around $15K, which we are not willing to pay for it. This is this one we would like to replace with a used SL (provided the price is sane, meaning $11K tops) and install a new lizard pack for "like new" range. IMO, these cars really only make sense at about $10K considering the almost mandatory need to replace the pack in warmer climates, or what Nissan calls "extreme" temperatures, which turns out to be anything over a whopping Hell-like 80°.

On a side note, we have never really been fans of leasing and are anxious to move beyond that.

I am going to turn mine in and walk away...

caffeinekid said:

We currently have less than a year remaining on our 2011 SL lease and exactly a year on our 2014 S, so I have been thinking about the next step. I intend to replace the 2014 with a 2017 that (hopefully) offers the better range option, but the 2011 I am considering just turning in due to the level of battery degradation it has suffered.

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TomT said:

I am going to turn mine in and walk away...

caffeinekid said:

We currently have less than a year remaining on our 2011 SL lease and exactly a year on our 2014 S, so I have been thinking about the next step. I intend to replace the 2014 with a 2017 that (hopefully) offers the better range option, but the 2011 I am considering just turning in due to the level of battery degradation it has suffered.

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I don't blame you Tom. Given the performance of the 2011 and Nissan's attitude towards the whole affair, we have really been on the fence as well. The only thing that keeps us on the short bus is good eVgo coverage. At the same time, it ties us to CHAdeMO, so no BMW.

Back to your original question, given you could replace the battery for say, $7,000 all in, I might look for a clean high mile car from the south (no salt) for 10K or less. I haven't heard about any "aging" issues other than the battery.... so a 4 year old car should have plenty of miles left on it.

Given you are using QC instead of L2 for daytime charging, the 3.3 recharge shouldn't be an issue. Any more than that depends on the tax credits you can get between $7500 and $12,500 depending on the state, plus some kind of discount off a new SV and just go with a new car.

One other consideration is if there is lower insurance on an older car, or (as here in MA) you pay an extra tax based on the value of the car and the resale value is what might matter (10K vs 30K).

TomT said:

I am going to turn mine in and walk away...

caffeinekid said:

We currently have less than a year remaining on our 2011 SL lease and exactly a year on our 2014 S, so I have been thinking about the next step. I intend to replace the 2014 with a 2017 that (hopefully) offers the better range option, but the 2011 I am considering just turning in due to the level of battery degradation it has suffered.

Click to expand...

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Same...I regret leasing my 2013 Leaf now due to my longer commute and the poor infrastructure. I never had range anxiety, but charge station anxiety. Too many times stations were iced, broken, or taken which ended up wasting more valuable time (usually had to back track or charge on a slower L2 station). I'm definitely not going back to an electric vehicle after I turn in my lease unless there is enough range to avoid the need to publicly charge. The charging infrastructure is a joke.

I did a lot of research as I was going to buy a used Leaf 2013 0r 14. but, they are still a bit pricy, and for a few grand more we just got a new 2015 SV with the QC pkg - with the great Lizard battery. However, or Great Battery shows really LOW numbers on Leaf Stat at 300 miles - Ironic huh! - We still really like the car a lot, but after all the hassle, we are gonna get another 2015 or 2016 used in a year or two as a second car... I digress!
its in another post...

Anyway, here is some good info that may prove beneficial

Best bet when buying a used Leaf is to Call the Nissan Leaf Line 877-664-2738 or use the Nissan Chat feature on their Web.

Give them the VIN and they will give you info on the car.
Note: All Warranties are fully transferable, including Battery.
IMPORTANT to ask:
1) Have the annual battery checks been performed on time - They will have a record
2) Is the Battery warranty Active (if battery checks are not performed on time, battery warranty will become VOID and you will not get a warranty of needed
3) for 2011,2012 make sure there is not a B033 code on the warranty. That means the original owner opted out of the class action against Nissan for capacity loss and the battery warranty is VOID!

Demand all that info in writing. If the seller doesnt know any of this, its a good negotiation tools, specially on 2011,12 models as the B033 notification means you WILL be buying a new battery - so $6,000 comes right of the top if seller cant prove is a clean warranty ( you dont have to show your hand)

Also, to consider, 2015 Lizard battery will fit in all models from 2011 - 2015.
If you buy it, it comes with a complete new Battery Warranty
Actual costs -$6,200 +/- ( I called around to several Dealers)
$5,499 for the Pack (they will keep yours)
$432 Tax (8% - depends on location)
$360 +/- Labor. Nissan specs out 3 hours / $120 hour may vary between STEALerships
Add another $225 for a retro fit Kit for 2011,2012 models

Some will do a free battery check first to determine current state, other will charge up to $100.

Well... happy hunting for your used Leaf