What Size Battery Would You Need to Power Your House?

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Seeing as how I used to do this stuff for a living, here's my $0.02. One of the first things I used to ask my potential off-grid customers was, "why do you want to go off-grid?" If they answered that they were tired of getting ripped off by their utility and wanted to save money, I'd tell them to forget it, because it wasn't going to happen - they had to be doing it for some other reason (and I'd tell them how to cut down their utility bill through efficiency and conservation). Unless you were paying exorbitant rates, it wasn't cost-effective to be off-grid unless you were typically 1/8th to 1/2 mile beyond a power line, depending on what the utility would charge to extend it and the rates.

I stopped designing and selling off-grid AE systems about 2 decades ago, and some things have changed since then which alter the economics. For instance, at the time, new mono and poly-crystalline PV modules ran about $7-7.50/Watt peak retail, and they're now at or below $1.00/Wp. Battery prices haven't changed much, but inverters have gotten a lot better, with large sine wave inverters available that approach the efficiency of modified square wave. BoS costs seem to be about the same. Efficient, high quality loads like appliances are far more available, and less expensive than they were then: I think I paid $29 for my first compact fluorescent in 1989, and bought some for $0.55 ea. not too long ago; LEDs are starting to come down in price. Energy Star appliances are readily available. So, while it's easier to justify going off-grid now than then, I suspect it's still unlikely to make economic sense if you already have the grid. OTOH, if you're in an area that experiences frequent, prolonged outages, it may well make sense to have some kind of backup.

I haven't kept up with the tech and know next to nothing about micro-inverters, but from what little I do know, if your system uses them and you want to go off-grid, it's like the punchline to the old joke asking the colorful local for directions - "I wouldn't start from here, if I was you." Maybe you could, but it's so inefficient and expensive that it's probably not worth it most places. I suspect it's still a lot easier and cheaper to go off-grid with a system that uses string inverters, but for all I know there's a product out there that makes that not the case. And while automatic transfer switches have been around since then, what may be necessary to meet the requirements of your local utility/codes for safety could be daunting.

Most on-grid homes use a lot more power than the typical off-grid home, because the typical 3-7 days of storage is so expensive. So, for anyone contemplating going off-grid when you have it now, my advice is the same as it was two decades back: First, reduce your demand by getting the most efficient loads you can, and learn to conserve. Only when you've done that should you consider off-grid. And for occasional short term outages, consider getting yourself a generator to run essential loads. It will be cheaper than buying batteries. Of course, if you're doing it for ideological reasons the economics may be less important or irrelevant; most of my customers way back when fell into that category.
 
GRA said:
Most on-grid homes use a lot more power than the typical off-grid home, because the typical 3-7 days of storage is so expensive.
+1

Our home is grid-tied and heated by a heat pump. This time of year, it can be snowing and extremely cold, like right now. Low tonight is predicted to be 6F and windy with a high of 17F tomorrow, followed by a low of 2F tomorrow night. Below about 10F, the resistive heater turns on to heat the house.

The bottom line is little insolation and energy consumption approaching 100kWh/day. Peak power consumption is also higher than most RE systems can handle: 12 kW. And this is when we are most likely to lose power in the wintertime.

No thanks on batteries for me.
 
OBTW, for anyone considering going off-grid using lead-acid battery storage, it's normally most cost-effective to design storage for 50% depth of discharge. You can go anywhere between 20-80% DoD, but as a general rule 50% DoD provides the lowest cost of ownership when taking account of cycle life, longevity, initial and replacement costs. At least it did last century, and Trojan/Interstate et al appear to be selling the same batteries now as they did then.
 
GRA did you used to hang out on the Wind&Sun site? Anyway, what you said is right on.

If is far more economical to start with a really efficient home and appliances than take the step to solar. People often thought, well I will just throw 4 panels on my roof and start making money. Your far better off buying a really good fridge and replacing that energy in-efficient one, you will come out further ahead that way. I would never recommend anyone do what I did and go battery grid tied, to much work and not good (if any) payback and involves input from the owner. Like in the middle of summer, I need to find a place to use up my power if I am producing to much. A grid tied setup, just does its thing with very little input or work from the owners. Call it part of my hobby :)
 
TonyWilliams said:
I plan to be able to go off grid, but normal use would be grid tied.

If I have the lowest off peak electric rate, my grid connection would only be midnight to 5am to charge my cars.

The sun will run the air conditioning during the day (off-grid), and batteries will handle the low sun angles and night time. In San Diego, provided my house doesn't get hot in the day time, we can get by with a very small A/C unit running, or no air conditioning at all.
It would make more sense to stay connected to the grid all of the time, and just feed any instantaneous surplus to the utility for net metering credit to offset nighttime use.
 
2k1Toaster said:
I have about 500 pounds of batteries that run my server rack. They are expensive and only last about 2-3 years before I have over 70 batteries to replace. Why? Because on the internet, 0.0228% is too high of a failure rate. If your website drops out for a couple hours, that could be thousands in lost revenue, and much more in bad PR, bad customer experiences, etc. But your average home, it doesn't make a lick of difference.
They must cycle frequently to only last three years. I thought typical float service should go ten years.
 
Whatever happened to thomas edisons favorite, the nickel iron battery? Those things are impossible to burn up and last 50 years, kind of bulky and heavy, but that doesnt matter in stationary applications.
 
johnrhansen said:
Whatever happened to thomas edisons favorite, the nickel iron battery? Those things are impossible to burn up and last 50 years, kind of bulky and heavy, but that doesnt matter in stationary applications.
I bought 24 kWh of NiFe batteries designed for a Chrysler EV application for my off-grid PV system. These included a system to allow easy filling and venting of multiple batteries using a system of tubes. I, too, thought they were indestructible. I was wrong.

The problem with NiFe batteries is that they outgas during BOTH charge and discharge cycles, not just a little, but a lot. The result is that a high amount of maintenance is needed to keep these batteries watered.

Ultimately, I had a couple of these batteries burn up while my family was away on vacation. They lost massive amounts of water due to sunny conditions and a lack of a significant load. I got a desperate call from the couple watching our house describing the smell of the burning batteries. A couple of the cells in the batteries that went dry first ended up shorted, ruining them for good.

Today I'm a big fan of grid-tied systems (and I recommend high-quality lead-acid batteries for off-grid systems).
 
Nickel-Iron (Edison) cells operate over a much wider voltage range than lead acid cells and that can be a problem with charging hem while also operating on the battery voltage. I know a few people who have used them in the past but all of them have gone back to lead acid batteries for their off-grid homes. Our 1500 amp-hour battery is going on 17 years old and still in good shape. It is similar to the better fork lift type of battery and does require regular maintenance, mostly checking connections and adding water. My previous house battery was a used telephone company battery that we used for 12 years and then sold at a profit as scrap because we were moving.

Are any other parts of the country seeing increased fees specifically aimed at grid tied PV systems?
 
WisJim said:
Are any other parts of the country seeing increased fees specifically aimed at grid tied PV systems?
Increased fees? Yes

Aimed specifically at grid-tied PV? I doubt it, since there is very little PV installed currently on our utility's system.

The baseline monthly fee has increased from $5.80/month to $10.00/month. Even after this increase, since we "store" about 4 MWh during the three other seasons to power our home during the wintertime, we figure we are renting this battery for a fee of $0.0025/kWh/month.
 
WisJim said:
Nickel-Iron (Edison) cells operate over a much wider voltage range than lead acid cells and that can be a problem with charging hem while also operating on the battery voltage. I know a few people who have used them in the past but all of them have gone back to lead acid batteries for their off-grid homes. Our 1500 amp-hour battery is going on 17 years old and still in good shape. It is similar to the better fork lift type of battery and does require regular maintenance, mostly checking connections and adding water. My previous house battery was a used telephone company battery that we used for 12 years and then sold at a profit as scrap because we were moving.

Are any other parts of the country seeing increased fees specifically aimed at grid tied PV systems?
Was that the big, cylindrical, Lead-calcium cells used as float back-up? We had used ones in the shop for a while, and someone bought them. Lead-calcium really isn't a deep-cycle chemistry, but if you're cycling them shallow they can last a long time. And I used to successfully use sealed Lead-calcium gel-cells (Johnson Controls, Sonnenschein) in locations where gassing and maintenance were both to be avoided.

Further to other's comments about NiFE; as others have mentioned they need lots of watering and they also don't like cold temps, so they really need to be inside a vented enclosure or else earth-sheltered in colder climates. But they can last a very long time when well-treated.

The cost of an off-grid system depends critically on how much work you're willing to do. I used to tell my prospective customers,"if you want a turn-key system that's the nearest thing to having a utility, where about all you need to know is that when you flip a switch you get electricity, I can design that for you and it will cost X. Or, if you're willing to learn as much as you can absorb and essentially become your own power station operator, doing lots of battery maintenance and matching loads to output, you (with my advice) can design a system that will cost 1/4 to 1/3X. Or we can aim for any point between those extremes."

The majority of my off-grid customers were DIY types, so they tended to opt for the least expensive system that required the maximum involvement and knowledge on their part. But they, like early adopters of any tech, don't represent the mainstream consumer. For many people, battery watering, cleaning etc. is a pain, and more than they want to deal with. Sealed, minimum maintenance batteries can solve that at a higher price, and so on where it comes down to what trade-offs you're willing to make.
 
BrockWI said:
GRA did you used to hang out on the Wind&Sun site? Anyway, what you said is right on.
I used to post on some AE sites, but it's been more than a decade and I no longer remember the names. AFAIC, for people seriously contemplating going off-grid,

Home Power Magazine: http://www.homepower.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and the

Real Goods Solar Living Sourcebook: http://realgoods.com/solar-living-sourcebook" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (be sure to get the 14th edition as it's the most current, although the 13th will give you most of what you need to know if you want save a little)

remain the gold standards for basic information - that's how I got started back in the late '80s before moving into the business end of things. Back then, the off-grid 'industry' was so small that everyone knew everyone else, and when you went to something like SEER in Ukiah or Willits you'd run into everyone you'd ever read or heard about. Kind of like internet news groups sometimes are. :D
 
To have the least impact to environment, I will wait until thousands of used leafs and other EVs’ battery to retired. I hope the cost of used battery is cheaper than brand new battery.
 
Hello,
There was a time when I was hoping I could re-purpose my 2011 Leaf battery for home use and get a new one for the Leaf. Still hoping that becomes a reality. My average power usage is 1.5kW/hr or about 36 kWh per day. It can go as high as 50 kWh/day if I drive the leaf a lot, especially in winter. My work commute is only 22 miles = 5kWh/day in summer 6kWh/day in winter. Using the used leaf battery at home would allow me to current dump to fast charge the leaf.
 
dgpcolorado said:
2k1Toaster said:
...My assumptions come from the point of view that the grid is not a bad idea and very stable. I have maybe an hour or less per year where the grid goes down...
The same is true in my area, so I haven't seriously pursued the idea of battery backup.
...In the Armageddon scenario, I already have a way of power the house without the grid (solar) and something tells me that will be the least of my worries. And who would want to draw out their existence longer in a world without the internet!!!!! (j/k) But seriously, in Armageddon where the grid goes down indefinitely, I will have better things to worry about, and I probably won't be running 80KWh a day. My 11KW of panels will be more than I could use, until the zombies rip them from my roof...
How will you use your panels for this scenario? With my grid-tied setup once the grid is down my panels are offline. And I haven't the expertise to rewire them and cobble together some sort of inverter that can supply my house, at least while the sun is shining. I realize that there are some devices intended for this purpose but they are expensive and, since the grid is so reliable here, it is hard to justify the cost unless one is a committed survivalist or some such thing. (And if that were the case I'd have to move to lower altitude where subsistence farming is possible.)

In my current setup, without modifications, it is done by attaching them after a UPS or other inverter that is designed to operate without grid-power. This then will allow the input of the inverter off of that signal.

Alternatively, I have a few 600W grid-tie inverters that have an easily disabled anti-islanding feature which means as long as there is sun, there is power being pumped. Then my beefy 10KW inverter will follow the leader. I have tried this once, and the previous UPS scenario a couple times just for fun. I have also used my Prius to "jumpstart" the home production. Hook up an inverter to the wall with all circuits turned off except the solar inverter and the Prius outlet. Prius starts to power up to 1KW (using the 12v inverter output of the Prius, can do much more if using the traction battery) Then the solar inverter sees a grid-like signal, and outputs. Then the other independent grid ties start to output. Now when I disconnect the Prius, the 2 grid-following inverters think each-other is the grid, and they just keep going lol.
 
smkettner said:
2k1Toaster said:
I have about 500 pounds of batteries that run my server rack. They are expensive and only last about 2-3 years before I have over 70 batteries to replace. Why? Because on the internet, 0.0228% is too high of a failure rate. If your website drops out for a couple hours, that could be thousands in lost revenue, and much more in bad PR, bad customer experiences, etc. But your average home, it doesn't make a lick of difference.

They must cycle frequently to only last three years. I thought typical float service should go ten years.

Not for UPS batteries. These batteries are constantly monitored by the UPS's themselves and do automatic monthly testing. 3 years is common replacement. These batteries are still good in the sense that if a consumer picked them up and used them, they would hardly notice any difference when their laptop only lasted 2 hours instead of 3 hours.

But when your rack is consuming multiple KW continuously, it is a hard life for backup batteries. Standard preventative maintenance on all data-centers is 3-4 years. A few thousand dollars of batteries versus one outage where a bad battery shuts the rack down is worth every penny.
 
bowthom said:
My average power usage is 1.5kW/hr or about 36 kWh per day.
Sorry, but I just have to do this once in a while, lest my own brain or fingertips start to mix things up. But your power usage would be 1.5 kW, full stop. That is, not per hour, /hr , or even kWh. Your rate of energy use would be 1.5 kWh per hour, yes, but that is 1.5 kW or, as you correctly say, 36 kWh/day.

And you may very well know this and it was just a typo. In that case, my correction is for others who are less familiar with power vs energy units!
 
2k1Toaster said:
Alternatively, I have a few 600W grid-tie inverters that have an easily disabled anti-islanding feature which means as long as there is sun, there is power being pumped.

Care to share? ;)
I have an Outback 2.4kW grid-tied system on my house roof, and another 7.6kW SMA Grid-Tied system on the external garage, with no easy way to get them to interact. I've considered ripping apart the Outback system, and installing dual SMA Sunny Island inverters, panels, and batteries, but that is a lot of hassle and money. I wish SMA would make a US 240 VAC Sunny Island, which would make it much simpler. :(
 
Nubo said:
The prospects of significant number of folks going off grid gives the utility companies nightmares. And the day may come when it's economically feasible even for non-eccentrics. When that day approaches don't be surprised to discover there are suddenly laws or punitive fees against self-sufficient electrical systems.

We already have that here in Oklahoma. The law is in place, now they are working on what fee they will charge. The law says if you use alternative energy they will charge you more. Nice way to promote clean energy. But it's Oklahoma. I'm surprised they don't charge me more for driving a Leaf.
 
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