Using a dryer circuit for an EVSE

[kieranmullen]

do you have a freezer in there? What is the amperage?

That's 30 amps for the whole garage, not just the EVSE. I wouldn't want a 16A EVSE, and the 20 amp unit is already en route.

 

[LeftieBiker]

No appliances, but a charger for an electric max-scooter. and one for an E-bike. Plus the usual power tools.

 

[smkettner]

Easily managed IMO.

 

[LeftieBiker]

Clearly, whatever I plan will be totally wrong. ;-(

 

[QueenBee]

Even if it's in a metal conduit? Anyway, I'm not comfortable with 30A total available, even though it would work. I'm going to run 10-3 UF cable 45' from the main 200 amp service panel, around the front of the house and across the side yard, buried, to the sidewalk. It will be a real PITA with roots to bury it, but at this point it seems the best option. We are also planning to replace the two linked fuseboxes in the cellar, as the wiring in them has degraded even more. The garage fusebox is staying, as there is nothing whatsoever wrong with it as presently configured.

The type of conduit or if there is a conduit at all does not change the rating of NM-B and UF. Any reason why you are using metal conduit instead of PVC? You can also consider the trade offs of a deeper trench and not using any conduit vs a shallower trench and conduit. If you are going through all the work to run new wiring to the garage why not complete the job right and replace the fuse panel with a real sub panel?? CLearly there is something wrong with the way it's confused you are having to come up with hacks to attempt to make it "safer" for a 240 volt device...

 

[smkettner]

I am not saying to pull wire is wrong. Existing wire should be protected by 30 amp fuses.
If it gets to be a nuisance replacing fuses then by all means pull some 6/3 or better.

 

[LeftieBiker]

The only garage fuses I've had to replace were when the outside light worked loose (apparently when it was mounted 50 years ago, the installer git distracted and only sank the screws halfway) in its mount. I've never had to replace an outlet fuse.

 

[wwhitney]

I'm going to run 10-3 UF cable 45' from the main 200 amp service panel, around the front of the house and across the side yard, buried, to the sidewalk.

Is this to get a new circuit to the garage, or to locate the EVSE somewhere else?

If the garage is detached, under the NEC you can only have one feeder/circuit going to it. So if the existing 10-3 is not adequate, you can't just add another 10-3 for some of the loads. You'd have to replace the 10-3 with a larger feeder. Reusing your fuse box is fine if its rating is adequate for the new feeder.

If you currently have conduit going to the garage, hopefully you could reuse the conduit and just pull in new wire. But do you know that the conduit is continuous between the buildings? When running direct buried cable between structures, the portion not at full depth needs to be sleeved in conduit to protect the cable as it emerges from grade. So you will always see conduit where the cable enters the ground and emerges from the ground, but they could just be stubs.

Cheers,
Wayne

 

[LeftieBiker]

New EVSE location.

 

[LeftieBiker]

The new Clipper Creek 20 amp EVSE is supposed to be installed with a 25 amp breaker. While that size is allowed in some circuits in NY, it isn't allowed on the most common ones, it seems, so there are none on the shelves. Any problem with using a 30 breaker for a 20 amp EVSE?

 

[smkettner]

The new Clipper Creek 20 amp EVSE is supposed to be installed with a 25 amp breaker. While that size is allowed in some circuits in NY, it isn't allowed on the most common ones, it seems, so there are none on the shelves. Any problem with using a 30 breaker for a 20 amp EVSE?

No trouble at all. Good in all conditions.

 

[QueenBee]

The new Clipper Creek 20 amp EVSE is supposed to be installed with a 25 amp breaker. While that size is allowed in some circuits in NY, it isn't allowed on the most common ones, it seems, so there are none on the shelves. Any problem with using a 30 breaker for a 20 amp EVSE?

No trouble at all. Good in all conditions.

As long as #10 wire is used (Needed for 25 amp as well). Technically I think NEC is going to require you to follow the installation instructions though. I doubt the electrical inspector is going to question it though since 25 amp isn't as normal. I had no trouble ordering one online for my heatpump though.

 

[RonDawg]

The new Clipper Creek 20 amp EVSE is supposed to be installed with a 25 amp breaker. While that size is allowed in some circuits in NY, it isn't allowed on the most common ones, it seems, so there are none on the shelves. Any problem with using a 30 breaker for a 20 amp EVSE?

That's exactly how my LCS-25 is connected.

 

[LeftieBiker]

Thanks. I figured it would be ok, as a short would pull more than 30 amps. Still, it would be nice if they'd say in the installation instructions that 30 amps is ok when a 25 amp breaker isn't available. It's also a bit unusual that they don't use the Neutral wire, but as long as it works safely...

 

[smkettner]

None of the L2 EVSEs use a neutral afaik.

 

[LeftieBiker]

None of the L2 EVSEs use a neutral afaik.

I'm guessing that has to do with the heavy-duty GFCI, then?

 

[QueenBee]

None of the L2 EVSEs use a neutral afaik.

I'm guessing that has to do with the heavy-duty GFCI, then?

Not sure what you mean. L2 EVSEs don't have a neutral because the they are 240 volt
and cars are 120 or 240 volt but not both at the same time. A nuetral would only be needed if a part of the EVSE was 120 volts while providing 240 volts to the car.

 

[jlatl]

I note that the LCS-25 manual calls for it to be installed with a 25A breaker, but the LCS-25P should have a 30A breaker (page 10 of the manual).

AFIK the only difference is that the LCS-25P has a plug on the end, the LCS-25 is meant to be hard wired.

 

[jstack6]

jlat1, You can always plug a lower power EVSE into a higher circuit. It only pulls what the lower limited EVSE and vehicle pull. You are safe having a higher rated outlet like you have (30 AMP). You just need the right plug and socket to match up and plug in. No transformers, it's all 240 volts and transformer would be used if you needed different voltage.
I hope that part seems clear now.


QUOTE-
1. If I get a 16 or 20 A EVSE, how can it be connected to a 30A circuit? I don't think it can without a transformer
2. Can a 30A EVSE be safely connected to a dedicated 30A circuit or, based on Ray's comment about the 80% load recommendation, should a 30A EVSE be connected to a 40A or larger circuit?

 

[jlatl]

jlat1, You can always plug a lower power EVSE into a higher circuit. It only pulls what the lower limited EVSE and vehicle pull. You are safe having a higher rated outlet like you have (30 AMP). You just need the right plug and socket to match up and plug in. No transformers, it's all 240 volts and transformer would be used if you needed different voltage.
I hope that part seems clear now.

QUOTE-
1. If I get a 16 or 20 A EVSE, how can it be connected to a 30A circuit? I don't think it can without a transformer
2. Can a 30A EVSE be safely connected to a dedicated 30A circuit or, based on Ray's comment about the 80% load recommendation, should a 30A EVSE be connected to a 40A or larger circuit?

jsgtack6,
Thanks for the info, but the quote was from fhammond and not from me.

I would add a clarification on question regarding the size of the circuit. Not only can you use a higher capacity circuit, but more importantly you need to have a circuit rated for a higher capacity than what you draw because standard ratings assume you will not be running a steady high current load. That is why the electrical code says you need to derate the capacity to 80% of the rating for steady loads (e.g. - heaters, ovens, EVSEs)

If you draw 30A the circuit should be rated for 37.5A, or 125% of what you draw on a steady load. (Of course there is no 37.5A wire, so you go to 40A, or 8 ga. wire)