used 2013 Leaf, 23K and 12 bars

[LeftieBiker]

I was trying to remember the common name for them, but failed. It's "Power Splitter" or "Power Split Device." I've always had trouble picturing planetary gearsets. I can easily picture a six speed constant mesh motorcycle transmission, having taken one apart and reassembled it in high school, but I never tackled any kind of 'slushbox' other than a snowmobile CVT. (Now that's simplicity!)

 

[cwerdna]

^^^
If you have some time, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GakqZFIejI has explanation of how the PSD works. I'm not one that can explain it. I watched it long ago and will concede it's not that easy to understand the principles. I'm no mechanical engineer.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

^^^
If you have some time, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GakqZFIejI has explanation of how the PSD works. I'm not one that can explain it. I watched it long ago and will concede it's not that easy to understand the principles. I'm no mechanical engineer.

Nice example of the real parts. I never realized they were that small! Pretty cool hands on model here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zpfs2LPAa6Y Yeah just being a mechanical engineer doesn't help all that much unless you are designing things like automatic transmissions or gearboxes is your specialty. I designed injection molded parts, electronic packaging, finite element analysis for example and NEVER did anything with a gear box. I did more with gear trains when I was a motorcycle mechanic and service manager before I got my degree, lol.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

So I finally received my OBD II device (actually two of them...Amazon shipping for you). It ran Leafspy lite perfectly with my Galaxy phone. I even got a cable with the on/off switch.

SOC=29.4%....display reads 18 mi
SOH =87%.....looks like I'm close to losing my first bar
AHr=57.02
Hx=85.5
Looks like about half the cell pair are red and the other blue. Is this normal and cell leveling or?

I don't have my updated 240v charger but that should be here tomorrow I think. I'm already wired with a locking 30 A connector and 30 A service. The charger is 20A I think once it's updated.

 

[LeftieBiker]

You must drive a little slower than me. I have about 88% SOH but you seem to have a little more range. Is it warm where you are?

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

You must drive a little slower than me. I have about 88% SOH but you seem to have a little more range. Is it warm where you are?

Yes most of the time it is warm or mild but not hot (San Diego). I've kept it right a 65 on the freeway and pretty easy/gradual acceleration using B mode most if not all of the time. 40 psi in the tires, 17" std for SL. I've transferred my driving style (practiced from driving a Prius) to my 2013 Subaru Crosstrek and I'm getting 33, mostly freeway, once again. My drag racing days are over, lol.

I too was a biker, drag raced, motocross, observed trials, street riding and was the service mgr at a very large Kawasaki Dealership before I went back to school. We also had Moto Guzzi and Norton and Jet Skis of course. Left that part of my life way back in 1979 or so.

Oh might as well ask this here. Am I going to have issues with the 12volt battery? Does the solar panel help much? I plan to keep it covered so that will probably negate much benefit. And what do you think of the stark power Li batteries. My Prius lead acid cost me around $300. right in the range of a Lithium ion replacement. I know I don't want to have to mess with a trickle charger.

 

[LeftieBiker]

If you don't want to trickle charge, and don't plan to have the solar panel in full sun often, you might want to consider a relatively new idea here: disconnecting the current sensor from the battery's negative terminal. This is still in the mostly-talk stage, but it appears the sensor is an unnecessary carryover from ICE-equipped vehicles, and it may be the culprit (or one of them) in the 12 volt battery undercharging issue. My personal feeling is I'd want to be able to switch it off when doing short trips and back on for long ones (especially in warm daylight), but as I said, it's mostly talk at this point. In any case, if the battery is older, get a new, better one, preferably at least "marine" in designation. I see little need for an expensive lithium battery.








<Cue Arnis>

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

In any case, if the battery is older, get a new, better one, preferably at least "marine" in designation. I see little need for an expensive lithium battery.
<Cue Arnis>

The battery is probably original and will be 4 years old in Sept. I'll just keep an eye on it for now and monitor it's health. They don't usually last much beyond 4-5 years in my experience. I wonder about Lithium and if it will be maintained safely in the Leaf so the marine deep discharge option might be a better way to go so I'll search the forum for the one that is the best fit. So the 51R that Optima makes is $259. Seems like for that money might be better to look into a Lithium Ion.

I wonder if the car cover I'm buying has a clear panel by the solar collector. My Subaru cover has a clear cover for the license plate and that would be perfect for the solar collector too.

This issue of 80% VS 100% charging still seems to be a bit unsettled here. I guess I'll do 80% for now and maybe every 5th charge or so will be 100% and only if I plan to drive it soon after. On the other hand if I can get a new battery before 5 years is up I might stick with 100%.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

If you don't want to trickle charge, and don't plan to have the solar panel in full sun often, you might want to consider a relatively new idea here: disconnecting the current sensor from the battery's negative terminal.
<Cue Arnis>

Looks like the car cover manufacturer will put a clear panel in the cover to expose the solar cell...perfect solution to keeping the car covered but charging outside. No room in my garage for it.