URGENT! - Cannot charge anymore !

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Nubo said:
I didn't read where it doesn't breach the pack; seemed the dealership only got as far as following the cable to somewhere above the battery. At this point I haven't seen anything to show that these cables don't have the potential for ruining someone's day with 400 Volts DC.
Oh, I think they may well be hot, but they were traced to the front of the pack, so I think it likely that they were spliced into the HV cables outside of the pack, since the other HV components are all under the hood and it would be relatively easy to splice in there. With any luck they used a Y adapter of some sort that can simply be unplugged and removed rather than actually splicing, but the workmanship seen so far doesn't fill me with hope on that score. Anyway, he definitely needs someone who knows HV and LEAF to fix this up for him.
 
I hate to be a Nay sayer here, but unless there is something that is deteriorating in the way this harness was connected, I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that this is your problem.
(still needs to be dealt with)

Running a wire in parallel with the HV pack won't create an error code.
And there are only just so many ways to screw up a pair of wires.
At 380 volts DC or so, a short would be kinda self diagnosing, what with the fire and death and all, and an open would be... well what you have anyway.

Everyone who put an auxiliary battery or a second charger (brusa) in tapped parallel to the pack, and no error messages resulted.

I'm just saying....

When we installed our Brusas (in the front), we went into the inverter housing on the U.S. Passenger side.
There is a location to do a nice clean connection inside.
If they did that, they most likely entered through a gland (boot) on the rear of that passenger side, which has some delicate wiring close to it.
Maybe in doing that, they created a situation where these heavy conductors are rubbing against the really little control wires and that's where you errors are coming from.

You can see the heavy conductors from the pack )factory) on the left of the picture, and all the myriad of little control wire nearby.

Well, good luck, and I will wait to hear how it works out.

Brusa20.jpg
 
KillaWhat said:
Running a wire in parallel with the HV pack won't create an error code.
For DC characteristics this is true, however the high voltage impedance test
is looking at AC characteristics, and is sensitive to capacitance. In some old
posting I recall that Nissan had trouble with the compressor triggering the
error, and had to back off the sensitivity of the test.
KillaWhat said:
Everyone who put an auxiliary battery or a second charger (brusa) in tapped parallel to the pack, and no error messages resulted.
I thought Ingineer originally had trouble with this, possibly fixed by using the
short path you are currently using.
 
Cliff is right. The insulation testing is quite sensitive and I'm pretty sure the connection of this aftermarket plug is deteriorating and has enough moisture in the failing seal to trip this test. The OP lives in Washington, and probably is experiences quite a bit of rain. The Brusa connection is to nice big bus bars in the inverter. I believe the OP's connector is into the charger HV wiring. Keep in mind that all the HV cables are actually shielded cables, and thus makes taping these wires properly that much more difficult.
 
Interesting:
C1A62 0108 BRAKE Control Mod Pwr Supply BR-53
Note that the brake control module runs off 12V, so you might want to check out the voltage of your 12V battery.
U1263 0208 MULTI AV USB Overcurrent AV-91
What do you plug into the USB port? An Android device for reading the ELM327? (I doubt this is a real problem since the USB port should limit itself to 500 mA...)
 
RegGuheert said:
Interesting:
C1A62 0108 BRAKE Control Mod Pwr Supply BR-53
Note that the brake control module runs off 12V, so you might want to check out the voltage of your 12V battery.
U1263 0208 MULTI AV USB Overcurrent AV-91
What do you plug into the USB port? An Android device for reading the ELM327? (I doubt this is a real problem since the USB port should limit itself to 500 mA...)

you think the battery 12V is dead? would the "BRAKE Control Mod Pwr Supply BR-53" prevent the car from charging? thats strange, i will try to get a battery booster.

I charge my iphone 5s from the USB port, but today i didnt plug it so very unlikely to be the reason for not charging

thanks !
 
kilimats said:
you think the battery 12V is dead?
I always assume that about the LEAF!! ;)
kilimats said:
would the "BRAKE Control Mod Pwr Supply BR-53" prevent the car from charging? thats strange, i will try to get a battery booster.
If the 12V battery is low, it can cause communications problems on one or more of the CANBusses. That can result in pretty much anything getting reported.

I highly recommend the Battery Minder for charging. RV Upgrade Store does not appear to have the latest model (1510) with the 10-year warranty, but they have awesome prices on both the unit and its accessories. I bought the 1500 from them and love it!
kilimats said:
I charge my iphone 5s from the USB port, but today i didnt plug it so very unlikely to be the reason for not charging
I wouldn't think it is related. But these codes could have been stored anytime within the last 20 starts.
 
RegGuheert said:
Did you check your 12V battery voltage?

did last time i had this issue and even used a battery booster but no luck, the only diff now is that i can clear the codes with leaf spy pro, so ill do all that again and reset codes tonight
 
kilimats said:
RegGuheert said:
Did you check your 12V battery voltage?

did last time i had this issue and even used a battery booster but no luck, the only diff now is that i can clear the codes with leaf spy pro, so ill do all that again and reset codes tonight
O.K. I looked back in the thread and see 12.57V, which is actually pretty good for the LEAF.

If you test it again, pop the hood and let is sit, unplugged (from the wall and also the ELM327), for at least 30 minutes before measuring.
 
So i just tried unplugging the battery for an hour, and IT WORKS NOW WTF !!!

Is there more things that get reset if you leave it unpluged that long ? before i only did like 30 sec max
 
You need to have the defective splice into the high voltage cables removed and properly repaired.
Operating a LEAF with defective 394V high voltage cables that generate a fault condition any time it rains is a bad idea :shock: :eek: :!:
 
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