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sendler2112 said:
Keep in mind that it might not be the dealer that is screwing you. They can only do what Nissan tells them to do in the case of a major component replacement.

Yes I am 100% sure this is Nissan corporate not the dealer's fault. I actually found a dealership nearby with a very knowledgable technician that basically confirmed everything I have posted here and said that unfortunately he can't do anything to help me because unless there is a fault code Nissan will not approve any repairs on the battery.

sendler2112 said:
You have a great case now but if you could find another Leaf driver to follow you on a range test with video running in both cars to show that you are getting less range in a same day comparison, that would take away Nissan's last leg where they are saying that range varies by weather and driving style. It could even be a 24kWh car which would still beat you.

I have been trying but so far have not found a person in my area with a Leaf that is willing to help me out with something like this. I am still looking though.
 
Yes I am 100% sure this is Nissan corporate not the dealer's fault. I actually found a dealership nearby with a very knowledgable technician that basically confirmed everything I have posted here and said that unfortunately he can't do anything to help me because unless there is a fault code Nissan will not approve any repairs on the battery.

Then your goal should be to create conditions that cause the car to throw a fault code - without doing anything abusive or illegal. If you can figure out at what point it is going to Turtle itself shortly, maybe flooring it up a hill would do the trick. The goal is to create a power requirement that a normal pack can meet, but this one can't.
 
I'm very surprised that a pack with a cell that is .7v out of balance won't throw a code already. You can try charging for 10 minutes. Floor it. Turtle back home. Charge for 10 minutes. Floor it. Turtle back home. each time you do this it should get more and more out if balance. Use the car for your commute during the week and take it to turtle every night when you get home. Eventually that cell will develop a high resistance and set a code. That won't get you out of the car but it will get you a new battery. Just make sure you don't have anything in the car that you can't grab in a hurry if you smell smoke.
 
Something is clearly not right. But is there a way, other than by cracking the pack open and measuring the cells individually, to determine whether it's a bad cell or a bad sensor?
 
sendler2112 said:
The range is also 23% less than it should be. It's obviously not the sensor.
If the car's drive systems are programmed to avoid draining any one cell past some lower threshold by claiming "I'm out of charge", and the only way the car has to tell when that occurs is to look at the sensor, then yes, I think a faulty sensor would result in shortened range.
 
This is a classic weak cell issue if you follow the other thread in it's entirety. This cell gets more and more out of balance over time and is much worse at the bottom of the charge than the top.
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http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=22667
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How low has OP taken the battery ?
At some point a DTC should log ...

As an aside: something is quite rotten in Denmark if a 0.6+ volt cell difference is real and not leading to a DTC
 
sendler2112 said:
I'm very surprised that a pack with a cell that is .7v out of balance won't throw a code already. You can try charging for 10 minutes. Floor it. Turtle back home. Charge for 10 minutes. Floor it. Turtle back home. each time you do this it should get more and more out if balance. Use the car for your commute during the week and take it to turtle every night when you get home. Eventually that cell will develop a high resistance and set a code. That won't get you out of the car but it will get you a new battery. Just make sure you don't have anything in the car that you can't grab in a hurry if you smell smoke.

Unfortunately I live in the middle of the city so there is nowhere close to me house that I can floor it. If I really had to I could drive out to some relatives and use the trickle charger to do that, but at this point I don't actually want them to fix the car. I have no confidence in Nissan whatsoever and I think I have enough evidence to get a refund when I go to arbitration. At that point I will buy a Chevy Bolt or something.
 
SageBrush said:
How low has OP taken the battery ?
At some point a DTC should log ...

As an aside: something is quite rotten in Denmark if a 0.6+ volt cell difference is real and not leading to a DTC
The LeafSpy shot that I posted here is at 0% when the car actually stopped moving.
 
Cryptizard said:
Unfortunately I live in the middle of the city so there is nowhere close to me house that I can floor it.

Left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas. Should do the trick.
 
Cryptizard said:
Valdemar said:
Is the CVLI test description still present in the 2016 service manual or is it gone same as it happened with the table outlining the correspondence between % capacity losses and capacity bars count?

I don't have the service manual so I am not sure.

I can confirm that the CVLI test is mentioned as well as the 3.712 V minimum to initiate in the 2016 manual on page 1523 EVB.
It is easier to find using IDX alphabetical index that is now included with the service manual and look for P33E6 cell controller where it was mentioned in the 2013 manual.
The new manual also has the 4 battery types in EVB (24 kWh w and w/out heat, and 30kWh w and w/out heat.
I might also mention that there are new visual charts page 1512 EVB somewhat reminiscent to Leaf Spy showing the staircase and various symmetrical and and non-symmetrical comparisons between adjacent cells.
Not as pretty without the red and blue colors :)
Still looking for capacity loss/ bar loss table , probably won't find one.
 
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