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With the car in READY or ON mode, check if there is an orange warning light on the lower dash that looks a car with an exclamation sign. If so, turn off the car, unplug the EVSE, turn the car back on to see if the warning is no longer on. If the warning light is off, the car should now be able to charge.

goodtimessd said:
Thanks for the replies. I've included the requested info below. Currently the car won't charge.. I charged it to 100% (58miles) yesterday with no problems, drove it down to about 40% (20 miles) on the GuestOmeter and now I've been trickle charging since yesterday 18+ hours with no increase. Verified that no timers are set, trickle charge cord shows ready and clicks charging, car shows flashing green plug indicating charging, car beeps once followed by two beeps when plugging in.

Not sure if I'm doing something wrong, but thinking about taking it in to the dealer tomorrow morning to get it checked out and also ensure warranties are all covered/transferable. It's my understanding that all warranties transfer and also car fax warranty check states "Transferable: No cost, unlimited owners covered". I understand it still be better to confirm with dealer which I plan to do tomorrow.

| goodtimessd
| 2013 Nissan Leaf SL
| VIN: 1N4AZ0CPXDC405652
| mfg date per door jam label= 03/13
| Orignal Dealer: AutoNation Nissan Chandler, Chandler, AZ
| unknown date of loss (3 bar loss occurred during previous 2 year lease in AZ)
| Current City = San Diego (3 bar loss occurred in Gilbert, AZ. Auctioned to San Diego Dealer 5/30/2015, purchased in San Diego 7/22/2015)
| unknown miles at time of loss, currently 28,729 miles on odometer

Thanks again for the feedback..

Cheers!
 
There is a warning light, but its the "Low tire pressure warning light" per the owners manual. I did notice that the "BRAKE system warning
light (yellow)" came on earlier but then went away when I unplugged and turned on the car, it hasn't come back.
 
goodtimessd said:
There is a warning light, but its the "Low tire pressure warning light" per the owners manual. I did notice that the "BRAKE system warning
light (yellow)" came on earlier but then went away when I unplugged and turned on the car, it hasn't come back.

Update on charging issue: Its slowly trickle charging again. Not sure what's going on with that, since no indications (i.e. related warning lights). Anyways I'll drop that issue since this thread is on battery degradation.

I contacted local certified Nissan Dealers service department and they confirmed that all warranties with my leaf stay with the car and transfer when sold. I'll post updated leaf spy numbers once it gets back to 100% charge.
 
goodtimessd said:
Hello All,

Newbee here.. 3rd day as Leaf owner. Still trying to get up to speed on everything so apologize in advance in my post is in the wrong place or lingo is incorrect. I was hoping to get a little piece of mind/ clarification from some of you awesome Leaf experts.

I just bought ($12k) Nissan Leaf 2013 SL w/ 28,729 miles and 9 capacity bars. My GuestOmeter showed 58miles on 100% charge, which was on par with my first real world drive yesterday. I received my new "Newest Bluetooth V1.5 OBD2 OBD II" scanner this morning and installed LeafSpy Pro. My first readings were as follows:

SOC = 49.1% (I've been trickle charging for about 15.5 hours now and the battery wash't even dead when I started charging yesterday. Just put in order for EVSE upgrade advanced replacement, so hopefully that speeds charging up to 4-5hrs. It's my understanding that a 30% degraded battery would charge faster than a new battery, however would also decharge faster as well. I was playing with power breakers yesterday and cut the power on the charger at the breaker box while it was plugged in, would I need to replug the charger in order for it to resume charging? Seems like it wasn't charging all night, since the GuestOmeter was showing the same amount of miles (28miles) when I plugged it in.)

9 Capacity Bars
GIDs = 83 (29.5%)
AHr = 44.11 (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of AHr?)
SOH = 67% (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of SOH?)
377.11V
Hx = 60.75

My initial newbee thoughts are I'm very close to dropping that 9th bar? I have another 3 days to return the car to dealer for full refund, so trying to get piece of mind for keeping it. Thanks in advance for any help.

Who did you order your obd2 scanner from and is it the mini with shutoff button?
 
Verified that no timers are set, trickle charge cord shows ready and clicks charging, car shows flashing green plug indicating charging, car beeps once followed by two beeps when plugging in.

What are the 3 blue dash lights doing after the beeps? Those are the real indicators that charging is occuring. Since you have LeafSpy, you should check what error codes are stored. Given that you have seen 2 different dash lights, it worries me that maybe your 12 volt battery is flaky, or might need trickle charged.
If you have a local Nissan dealer, I would stop by with your VIN and have them pull up the Service Report. If its clean, it looks like you are shortly going to win the new battery lottery! :D
 
[/quote]

Who did you order your obd2 scanner from and is it the mini with shutoff button?[/quote]

I ordered it on amazon "Newest Bluetooth V1.5 OBD2 OBD II Auto Diagnostic Scanner Mini Adapter". No shut off button.
 
keydiver said:
Verified that no timers are set, trickle charge cord shows ready and clicks charging, car shows flashing green plug indicating charging, car beeps once followed by two beeps when plugging in.

What are the 3 blue dash lights doing after the beeps? Those are the real indicators that charging is occuring. Since you have LeafSpy, you should check what error codes are stored. Given that you have seen 2 different dash lights, it worries me that maybe your 12 volt battery is flaky, or might need trickle charged.
If you have a local Nissan dealer, I would stop by with your VIN and have them pull up the Service Report. If its clean, it looks like you are shortly going to win the new battery lottery! :D

The 3 blue dash lights are showing normal activity, with the first one solid and the second one blinking, indicating 4-8 bars which is where the charge is currently at. It's charging now, slowly but surely.. I think it may have had something to do with the 3 prong to 2 prong adapter that was on the plug end of my extension cord, which was eliminating the grounding prong. I just read in the charging troubleshooting section (CH-37) within the owners manual and it mentioned to "Check the grounding of the outlet being used" which made me think to remove the 3 prong to 2 prong adapter.

The trickle charger is now showing solid ready and solid charging LEDs. Before the ready was solid and the charging was blinking (making a clicking noise) or both the ready and charging were both flashing. Just learned that per the owners manual normal charging should show solid green ready LED and solid orange charging LED. I watched some youtube video on charging and the EVSE would make the clicking noise, so I assumed that was normal, guess that may be the case for other chargers?
 
Yes, if you have a poorly grounded outlet or cord your evse will not function properly. It sounds like you found it. Very good! Ok, now what vender on Amazon did you buy from so I can order a working OBD2. I have now ordered 3 that used to work for various leaf owners but they send the wrong version now. Who was your vendor through Amazon so I can get up to speed and how long did it take to get it? Thanks
 
Evoforce said:
Yes, if you have a poorly grounded outlet or cord your evse will not function properly. It sounds like you found it. Very good! Ok, now what vender on Amazon did you buy from so I can order a working OBD2. I have now ordered 3 that used to work for various leaf owners but they send the wrong version now. Who was your vendor through Amazon so I can get up to speed and how long did it take to get it? Thanks

Product Description: Newest Bluetooth V1.5 OBD2 OBD II Auto Diagnostic Scanner Mini Adapter
Sold by: ToysNGamesEtc (Chose them because they had amazon prime shipping)

I've only been using it two days, but it paired with my Samsung Galaxy S5 and has been working without issue for me.
 
goodtimessd said:
Evoforce said:
Yes, if you have a poorly grounded outlet or cord your evse will not function properly. It sounds like you found it. Very good! Ok, now what vender on Amazon did you buy from so I can order a working OBD2. I have now ordered 3 that used to work for various leaf owners but they send the wrong version now. Who was your vendor through Amazon so I can get up to speed and how long did it take to get it? Thanks

Product Description: Newest Bluetooth V1.5 OBD2 OBD II Auto Diagnostic Scanner Mini Adapter
Sold by: ToysNGamesEtc (Chose them because they had amazon prime shipping)

I've only been using it two days, but it paired with my Samsung Galaxy S5 and has been working without issue for me.

Thank-you! You just made my day!
 
goodtimessd said:
Hello All,

Newbee here.. 3rd day as Leaf owner. Still trying to get up to speed on everything so apologize in advance in my post is in the wrong place or lingo is incorrect. I was hoping to get a little piece of mind/ clarification from some of you awesome Leaf experts.

I just bought ($12k) Nissan Leaf 2013 SL w/ 28,729 miles and 9 capacity bars. My GuestOmeter showed 58miles on 100% charge, which was on par with my first real world drive yesterday. I received my new "Newest Bluetooth V1.5 OBD2 OBD II" scanner this morning and installed LeafSpy Pro. My first readings were as follows:

SOC = 49.1% (I've been trickle charging for about 15.5 hours now and the battery wash't even dead when I started charging yesterday. Just put in order for EVSE upgrade advanced replacement, so hopefully that speeds charging up to 4-5hrs. It's my understanding that a 30% degraded battery would charge faster than a new battery, however would also decharge faster as well. I was playing with power breakers yesterday and cut the power on the charger at the breaker box while it was plugged in, would I need to replug the charger in order for it to resume charging? Seems like it wasn't charging all night, since the GuestOmeter was showing the same amount of miles (28miles) when I plugged it in.)

9 Capacity Bars
GIDs = 83 (29.5%)
AHr = 44.11 (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of AHr?)
SOH = 67% (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of SOH?)
377.11V
Hx = 60.75

My initial newbee thoughts are I'm very close to dropping that 9th bar? I do have another 3 days to return the car to dealer for full refund, so trying to get piece of mind for keeping it. Thanks in advance for any help.

Updated numbers with 100% charge below:

2013 Nissan Leaf SL
9 capacity bars
190 gids
96.8% soc (100%)
43.87 AHr
14.7 kWh
67% SOH
60.39% Hx
394.5 V

Cheers!
 
goodtimessd said:
goodtimessd said:
Hello All,

Newbee here.. 3rd day as Leaf owner. Still trying to get up to speed on everything so apologize in advance in my post is in the wrong place or lingo is incorrect. I was hoping to get a little piece of mind/ clarification from some of you awesome Leaf experts.

I just bought ($12k) Nissan Leaf 2013 SL w/ 28,729 miles and 9 capacity bars. My GuestOmeter showed 58miles on 100% charge, which was on par with my first real world drive yesterday. I received my new "Newest Bluetooth V1.5 OBD2 OBD II" scanner this morning and installed LeafSpy Pro. My first readings were as follows:

SOC = 49.1% (I've been trickle charging for about 15.5 hours now and the battery wash't even dead when I started charging yesterday. Just put in order for EVSE upgrade advanced replacement, so hopefully that speeds charging up to 4-5hrs. It's my understanding that a 30% degraded battery would charge faster than a new battery, however would also decharge faster as well. I was playing with power breakers yesterday and cut the power on the charger at the breaker box while it was plugged in, would I need to replug the charger in order for it to resume charging? Seems like it wasn't charging all night, since the GuestOmeter was showing the same amount of miles (28miles) when I plugged it in.)

9 Capacity Bars
GIDs = 83 (29.5%)
AHr = 44.11 (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of AHr?)
SOH = 67% (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of SOH?)
377.11V
Hx = 60.75

My initial newbee thoughts are I'm very close to dropping that 9th bar? I do have another 3 days to return the car to dealer for full refund, so trying to get piece of mind for keeping it. Thanks in advance for any help.

Updated numbers with 100% charge below:

2013 Nissan Leaf SL
9 capacity bars
190 gids
96.8% soc (100%)
43.87 AHr
14.7 kWh
67% SOH
60.39% Hx
394.5 V

Cheers!

Drive it like you want to until you hit 4 bars lost or 55,000 miles whichever comes first. If by some strange reason you don't lose that 4th bar this year make sure you don't run out the miles until after next fall so you can get that free battery pack.
 
dhanson865 said:
goodtimessd said:
goodtimessd said:
Hello All,

Newbee here.. 3rd day as Leaf owner. Still trying to get up to speed on everything so apologize in advance in my post is in the wrong place or lingo is incorrect. I was hoping to get a little piece of mind/ clarification from some of you awesome Leaf experts.

I just bought ($12k) Nissan Leaf 2013 SL w/ 28,729 miles and 9 capacity bars. My GuestOmeter showed 58miles on 100% charge, which was on par with my first real world drive yesterday. I received my new "Newest Bluetooth V1.5 OBD2 OBD II" scanner this morning and installed LeafSpy Pro. My first readings were as follows:

SOC = 49.1% (I've been trickle charging for about 15.5 hours now and the battery wash't even dead when I started charging yesterday. Just put in order for EVSE upgrade advanced replacement, so hopefully that speeds charging up to 4-5hrs. It's my understanding that a 30% degraded battery would charge faster than a new battery, however would also decharge faster as well. I was playing with power breakers yesterday and cut the power on the charger at the breaker box while it was plugged in, would I need to replug the charger in order for it to resume charging? Seems like it wasn't charging all night, since the GuestOmeter was showing the same amount of miles (28miles) when I plugged it in.)

9 Capacity Bars
GIDs = 83 (29.5%)
AHr = 44.11 (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of AHr?)
SOH = 67% (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of SOH?)
377.11V
Hx = 60.75

My initial newbee thoughts are I'm very close to dropping that 9th bar? I do have another 3 days to return the car to dealer for full refund, so trying to get piece of mind for keeping it. Thanks in advance for any help.

Updated numbers with 100% charge below:

2013 Nissan Leaf SL
9 capacity bars
190 gids
96.8% soc (100%)
43.87 AHr
14.7 kWh
67% SOH
60.39% Hx
394.5 V

Cheers!

Drive it like you want to until you hit 4 bars lost or 55,000 miles whichever comes first. If by some strange reason you don't lose that 4th bar this year make sure you don't run out the miles until after next fall so you can get that free battery pack.

Thanks for the advice.. haven't really driven it enough to see if the current state of the battery will work for me for a few years or if I'll just cash in on warranty right away once the 4 bar is lost. I've only drove it to work once last week and had 26 miles to spare once I got home. Had my first near turtle scare yesterday after a trip to the beach and then in-laws house while using AC on hot day, was on last red bar as I crawled back into my drive way ha. It was a bit of a rush stretching 16 miles distance when only showing 17 miles on a degraded battery. Good thing I watched some youtube reviews that showed how you can neutral coast and use the brake regenerative braking system. Not doing that again though ha, didn't realize the last 10 miles are low battery and literally all thats left. Full charge is currently showing 66 miles on GuessOMeter, so maybe I can hold off on battery replacement if I just use it for work and not weekend warrior. I'll be sure to update when I drop that last bar though.. thanks again for the feedback.
 
dhanson865 said:
goodtimessd said:
goodtimessd said:
Hello All,

Newbee here.. 3rd day as Leaf owner. Still trying to get up to speed on everything so apologize in advance in my post is in the wrong place or lingo is incorrect. I was hoping to get a little piece of mind/ clarification from some of you awesome Leaf experts.

I just bought ($12k) Nissan Leaf 2013 SL w/ 28,729 miles and 9 capacity bars. My GuestOmeter showed 58miles on 100% charge, which was on par with my first real world drive yesterday. I received my new "Newest Bluetooth V1.5 OBD2 OBD II" scanner this morning and installed LeafSpy Pro. My first readings were as follows:

SOC = 49.1% (I've been trickle charging for about 15.5 hours now and the battery wash't even dead when I started charging yesterday. Just put in order for EVSE upgrade advanced replacement, so hopefully that speeds charging up to 4-5hrs. It's my understanding that a 30% degraded battery would charge faster than a new battery, however would also decharge faster as well. I was playing with power breakers yesterday and cut the power on the charger at the breaker box while it was plugged in, would I need to replug the charger in order for it to resume charging? Seems like it wasn't charging all night, since the GuestOmeter was showing the same amount of miles (28miles) when I plugged it in.)

9 Capacity Bars
GIDs = 83 (29.5%)
AHr = 44.11 (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of AHr?)
SOH = 67% (Does this mean I'm very close to battery replacement 66.25%? Do I need to be at 100% charge for a accurate reading of SOH?)
377.11V
Hx = 60.75

My initial newbee thoughts are I'm very close to dropping that 9th bar? I do have another 3 days to return the car to dealer for full refund, so trying to get piece of mind for keeping it. Thanks in advance for any help.

Updated numbers with 100% charge below:

2013 Nissan Leaf SL
9 capacity bars
190 gids
96.8% soc (100%)
43.87 AHr
14.7 kWh
67% SOH
60.39% Hx
394.5 V

Cheers!

Drive it like you want to until you hit 4 bars lost or 55,000 miles whichever comes first. If by some strange reason you don't lose that 4th bar this year make sure you don't run out the miles until after next fall so you can get that free battery pack.

Oh ya I forgot to ask.. any reason you mention 55K miles and not 59,990? I only drive under 10K miles per year so really have about 3 years left on warranty. Again not sure if the current range will suffice though. Also, would there be any good reason to wait longer to replace battery say in 2016 or 2017? Are odds likely that they'll replace battery with what ever is the current years battery?
 
There are a few people who have waited after losing their 4th bar, mainly because they could still make their commute. They figure that the longer they can put it off, the longer their second battery is going to last, maybe another 10 years if the battery tech is that much better. Of course, there is also the chance that Nissan could make more beneficial chemistry tweaks in the future, which you would also benefit from if you wait, but there is no mention of that from Nissan. Personally, the only reason I might wait is if there is any chance that Nissan might offer the 30 kWh battery replacement for an upcharge.
 
goodtimessd said:
Oh ya I forgot to ask.. any reason you mention 55K miles and not 59,990? I only drive under 10K miles per year so really have about 3 years left on warranty. Again not sure if the current range will suffice though. Also, would there be any good reason to wait longer to replace battery say in 2016 or 2017? Are odds likely that they'll replace battery with what ever is the current years battery?

Doesn't matter the exact number of miles reserve. Just be sure to do the math before you get to 60,000.

I picked 55,000 because it is easy to type. You'll know your rate of degradation if you follow the SOH or ahrs on leafspy so just pay attention and leave some headway.

Near the end you'll want spare miles to drive to the dealer (possibly multiple times), to drive the car at random to keep it from sitting idle for several months if you need to wait time without using much miles, as insurance in case you read a number wrong, etcetera.

If you are in the middle of summer and have 50,000 miles on it and lose the 4th bar then you can wait for whatever mileage you want to get the replacement.

If you are in the middle of winter at 55,000 miles and have to wait for summer for the bar to drop you then have to micromanage your miles.
 
dhanson865 said:
goodtimessd said:
Oh ya I forgot to ask.. any reason you mention 55K miles and not 59,990? I only drive under 10K miles per year so really have about 3 years left on warranty. Again not sure if the current range will suffice though. Also, would there be any good reason to wait longer to replace battery say in 2016 or 2017? Are odds likely that they'll replace battery with what ever is the current years battery?

Doesn't matter the exact number of miles reserve. Just be sure to do the math before you get to 60,000.

I picked 55,000 because it is easy to type. You'll know your rate of degradation if you follow the SOH or ahrs on leafspy so just pay attention and leave some headway.

Near the end you'll want spare miles to drive to the dealer (possibly multiple times), to drive the car at random to keep it from sitting idle for several months if you need to wait time without using much miles, as insurance in case you read a number wrong, etcetera.

If you are in the middle of summer and have 50,000 miles on it and lose the 4th bar then you can wait for whatever mileage you want to get the replacement.

If you are in the middle of winter at 55,000 miles and have to wait for summer for the bar to drop you then have to micromanage your miles.

I see.. thanks for advice. My SOH is showing 66% today. I think I'll probably just replace battery right away since I'm only able to drive 45 miles safely (avoiding low battery) right now. Loving my new leaf, but would love it more with that added range.
 
LeafBattery2.jpg

I find it amazing that I lost almost another whole AHr in the past month! I dropped from 72% SOH to 70% since July 1.
 
goodtimessd said:
I see.. thanks for advice. My SOH is showing 66% today. I think I'll probably just replace battery right away since I'm only able to drive 45 miles safely (avoiding low battery) right now. Loving my new leaf, but would love it more with that added range.

No need to avoid the low battery warning. You've still got around 6-8 miles of energy available after you hit that point (depending on your efficiency). You might want to invest in one of the apps available for your phone that gives you more precise data for the remaining charge available in your car when you drive.
 
I updated a post in this thread dated July 11th. I lost 2% capacity in 1 month am now at 69%. At this rate, looks like October/November replacement. On vacation 2 weeks in September so might not loose 2% in Sept.

Edit: 8/25/15

Now at 68%
 
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