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mitch672 said:
Interesting how they are 120/240 dual voltage, but have to be wired for one or the other, so I guess no more "auto voltage EVSE", ---
Actually they work quite well for dual-voltage L1/L2 sensing when wired for 240V, just less overall resolution of the lower voltage waveform.
Greg C.
 
chris1howell said:
tbleakne said:
Have there been any recent reports of quality problems/bad fit with any J1772 suppliers ?
Yes the inexpensive cables that come from china are hit and miss. I only use and reccomend the leviton/ITT cables.
Leviton makes a 40A EVSE that Toyota is using at their RAV4 EV dealerships and recommending for home installation. I have seen it and the cable looks like it might well have 8 gauge conductors. Is it possible Leviton would sell just the cable and plug ? If so, the price might well be excessive.
 
tbleakne said:
chris1howell said:
tbleakne said:
Have there been any recent reports of quality problems/bad fit with any J1772 suppliers ?
Yes the inexpensive cables that come from china are hit and miss. I only use and reccomend the leviton/ITT cables.
Leviton makes a 40A EVSE that Toyota is using at their RAV4 EV dealerships and recommending for home installation. I have seen it and the cable looks like it might well have 8 gauge conductors. Is it possible Leviton would sell just the cable and plug ? If so, the price might well be excessive.

They don't offer 40-45A on their website, just 15A, 30A and 75A: http://store.leviton.com/b/5742800011" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
garygid said:
All three spec the cable at 10AWG, apparently a
Cut-and-Paste error.
Does anybody know the correct wire sizes?

Would it be 12, 10, and 6AWG for the 15, 30, and 75 amp versions?

I've never seen the 15A version, I would expect it wold only be 14AWG though.

The 75A ITT uses #6 for the 2 hots, #10 for the ground, and #18 for the pilot and proximity wires
The 30A ITT uses #10 for the 2 hots and the ground, and #18 for the pilot and proximity wires

I have seen and used both the 30A and 75A ITT versions, you can assume the Leviton versions are similar, since they actually seem to be made by ITT.
 
garygid said:
All three spec the cable at 10AWG, apparently a
Cut-and-Paste error.
Does anybody know the correct wire sizes?

Would it be 12, 10, and 6AWG for the 15, 30, and 75 amp versions?

It looks like 7 gauge copper would work for 75 amps. Good luck finding that.


Code:
Gauge-Dia/inch-Dia/mm-Ohm/1000ft-Ohm/km-Max/MinAmps-Max freq-Breaking force
OOOO 0.46	11.684	0.049	0.16072	380	302	125 Hz	6120 lbs
OOO	0.4096	10.40384	0.0618	0.202704	328	239	160 Hz	4860 lbs
OO	0.3648	9.26592	0.0779	0.255512	283	190	200 Hz	3860 lbs
0	0.3249	8.25246	0.0983	0.322424	245	150	250 Hz	3060 lbs
1	0.2893	7.34822	0.1239	0.406392	211	119	325 Hz	2430 lbs
2	0.2576	6.54304	0.1563	0.512664	181	94	410 Hz	1930 lbs
3	0.2294	5.82676	0.197	0.64616	158	75	500 Hz	1530 lbs
4	0.2043	5.18922	0.2485	0.81508	135	60	650 Hz	1210 lbs
5	0.1819	4.62026	0.3133	1.027624	118	47	810 Hz	960 lbs
6	0.162	4.1148	0.3951	1.295928	101	37	1100 Hz	760 lbs
7	0.1443	3.66522	0.4982	1.634096	89	30	1300 Hz	605 lbs
8	0.1285	3.2639	0.6282	2.060496	73	24	1650 Hz	480 lbs
9	0.1144	2.90576	0.7921	2.598088	64	19	2050 Hz	380 lbs
10	0.1019	2.58826	0.9989	3.276392	55	15	2600 Hz	314 lbs
11	0.0907	2.30378	1.26	4.1328	47	12	3200 Hz	249 lbs
12	0.0808	2.05232	1.588	5.20864	41	9.3	4150 Hz	197 lbs
13	0.072	1.8288	2.003	6.56984	35	7.4	5300 Hz	150 lbs
14	0.0641	1.62814	2.525	8.282	32	5.9	6700 Hz	119 lbs
 
TonyWilliams said:
garygid said:
All three spec the cable at 10AWG, apparently a
Cut-and-Paste error.
Does anybody know the correct wire sizes?

Would it be 12, 10, and 6AWG for the 15, 30, and 75 amp versions?

It looks like 7 gauge copper would work for 75 amps. Good luck finding that.
Walked by a 75-amp rated Tesla level 2 station from ClipperCreek the other day. It had a 4 AWG cable, we looked.
1
 
I see that we now have two "extras" listed for
the EVSE workshop.

If somebody "waiting" for a build spot in the workshop
really needs to do the build under supervision, I am
willing to become a helper/learner/documentor and
let the person with the greater need take my "build"
slot.
 
Any ideas on a connector for 75 amps?

I need to go from the EVSE with a connector that can connect to a pigtail with the appropriate power source (NEMA 14-50, 6-50, CS6563, etc for use at 50 amps and below).

For a full 75 amp connection, I suspect this unnamed connector will connect to the pigtail that will go straight too the breaker box.

How about this Rosco 100 amp wire connector?

http://www.rosco.com/lighting/connectors.cfm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
TonyWilliams said:
Any ideas on a connector for 75 amps?
For a full 75 amp connection, I suspect this unnamed connector will connect to the pigtail that will go straight too the breaker box.

How about this Rosco 100 amp wire connector?

http://www.rosco.com/lighting/connectors.cfm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
For removable connections and above the 50AMPs requirements, you better go the Anderson's line of connectors. The most appropriate would be the 175Amps.
 
mrbigh said:
TonyWilliams said:
Any ideas on a connector for 75 amps?
For a full 75 amp connection, I suspect this unnamed connector will connect to the pigtail that will go straight too the breaker box.

How about this Rosco 100 amp wire connector?

http://www.rosco.com/lighting/connectors.cfm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
For removable connections and above the 50AMPs requirements, you better go the Anderson's line of connectors. The most appropriate would be the 175Amps.

So, I'm locked into 4 AWG conductor with these connectors, but only two conductors? That won't work.

http://www.bdbatteries.com/anderson175.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;



UL Current Rating (Amperes)* 1 75 to 175*
UL Voltage Ratings (Volts) 600*
Contact Barrel Wire Size (AWG) 1/0 AWG to 4 AWG
(mm) 53.5 to 152
Maximum Wire Insulation Diameter (inches) 0.75 to 1.10
(mm) 19.1 to 27.9
AVG Contact Resistance* (micro-ohms) 100 to 50
Insulation Withstanding 2200
Test Voltage (Volts AC/DC)
Contact Retention Force (lbf) 300 to 500
Life
a. No load (Contact/Disconnect Cycles) To 10,000
b. Under Load (Hot Plug 250 cycles @ 120V) 75A to 100A*
Avg. Connection/Disconnect (lbf) 25 to 30
Operating Temperature Range °C** -20° to 105°
Flammability Rating of Housing Material UL94 V-0
 
You can get the contacts for 6 gauge wire also and assemble the quantity of contacts as you need using "powerpoles" from the same manufacturer and contact ratings.
 
Above 50A, why does it need to be "portable" I built a 75A OpenEVSE for my upcoming Tesla Model S, I'm hardwiring it to a 100A breaker using #3 THHN wiring (because I found a source of #3 that was less than #4, which is all that is required).

If you need a portable unit, I'm afraid it's only practical to limit it to 50A. If you need both, build two, one stationary that's 75A, and a portable 50A unit. Both will need to use the heavy 75A J-1772 cabling though.
 
mitch672 said:
Above 50A, why does it need to be "portable" I built a 75A OpenEVSE for my upcoming Tesla Model S, I'm hardwiring it to a 100A breaker using #3 THHN wiring (because I found a source of #3 that was less than #4, which is all that is required).

If you need a portable unit, I'm afraid it's only practical to limit it to 50A. If you need both, build two, one stationary that's 75A, and a portable 50A unit. Both will need to use the heavy 75A J-1772 cabling though.
I am doing the same, adding a 100A breaker. Would you be so kind to share the source of the #3 THHN awg wrie of where you get them cheap? Many thanks.
 
waidy said:
mitch672 said:
Above 50A, why does it need to be "portable" I built a 75A OpenEVSE for my upcoming Tesla Model S, I'm hardwiring it to a 100A breaker using #3 THHN wiring (because I found a source of #3 that was less than #4, which is all that is required).

If you need a portable unit, I'm afraid it's only practical to limit it to 50A. If you need both, build two, one stationary that's 75A, and a portable 50A unit. Both will need to use the heavy 75A J-1772 cabling though.
I am doing the same, adding a 100A breaker. Would you be so kind to share the source of the #3 THHN awg wrie of where you get them cheap? Many thanks.

Sure, "Stayonline", the shipping was about $18 though, so check on that... I bought. 25' of red and 25' of black, #3 THHN, .75 per foot. #6 Green THHN is actually a little more, .80 per foot. I think even adding in the cost of shipping, it was less money than at Home Depot for #4

http://www.stayonline.com/600-volt-thhn.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They also have the large gland nuts for the 1" diameter J-1772 cable:
http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=17209" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
mitch672 said:
Above 50A, why does it need to be "portable" I built a 75A OpenEVSE for my upcoming Tesla Model S, I'm hardwiring it to a 100A breaker using #3 THHN wiring (because I found a source of #3 that was less than #4, which is all that is required).

If you need a portable unit, I'm afraid it's only practical to limit it to 50A. If you need both, build two, one stationary that's 75A, and a portable 50A unit. Both will need to use the heavy 75A J-1772 cabling though.

I want to be able to drive the Model S with "twin chargers" to RV parks, and use two 50 amp plugs for 100 amp service.

For Rav4, sure, 50 amp max. But, I'm building to the same spec to handle both cars.

Here are the bits for the Anderson SB 175 three pole connectors:

APP's 2 & 3 pole connectors are available with a 175 amp rating, 600 Volts continuous AC or DC operation.

Housing p/n 902 (order 2)

Contacts p/n 1348 (order 6)

Crimping tool p/n 1368 (order 1)

Manual release locking half with clamps and hardware p/n 923 (optional)

Manual release mounting half with clamps and hardware p/n 924 (optional)
 
QueenBee said:
TonyWilliams said:
I want to be able to drive the Model S with "twin chargers" to RV parks, and use two 50 amp plugs for 100 amp service.

Using just one EVSE?

Yes. Using this setup:

Ingineer said:
TonyWilliams said:
Would there be any reason why I could not use two NEMA 14-50R outlets (at an RV park) and combine them into one box for 100 amp service ?
Disclaimer: This is not safe in the hands of a non-experienced user, but would be fine for Tony, and only if continuously supervised.
-Phil

Good plan! Thanks for penciling that out. I do have an inductive clamp on ammeter for the Fluke, so I can either monitor that way, or install two dedicated ammeters in the box.



Quick240v100a.jpg
 
I think it would be better to work on getting/donating 75A OpenEVSEs or Tesla HPWCs to RV Parks on commonly used routes. You will find many of the RV Park 14-50 outlets in poor shape, partially melted etc. that's a dangerous looking circuit you have drawn up, many chances for excitement and sparks, personally I wouldn't be involved. Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it's a good idea to do it. How will RV Park operators charge you, since you will be using (2) camper spots, I would think they will want to charge you for 2 spaces as well.
 
No reason to expect that the current would be drawn
equally from each socket, so it is still possible to
blow a campground breaker. And, once one goes,
the other would follow quickly. Further, the resulting
brown-out might possibly damage the car.

But, other than that, and the dangers of making mistakes,
it seems to be a definite maybe.
 
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