Onboard EVSE - DIY J1772 or modify charge port wiring

[QueenBee]

I got permission to use the 120 volt receptacles in my parking garage and recently saw this project: http://www.aprs.org/charging-DIY.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; so now I've finally got a use to put together an OpenEVSE mounted in the car. Are there any other threads that discuss implementing this idea?

The goal is a clean and safe solution for quickly charging from 120 volt receptacles that doesn't require opening the hood.

On the safety side I want to use an OpenEVSE in a water proof box and a shortish #14 cord reel mounted in the engine compartment defaulting to say 10 amps. Then depending on the J1772 plug setup a switch or a method of turning off the charger before unplugging.

That leaves what do for a J1772 plug:

The DIY J1772 plug that Bob Bruninga in the above link created scares me a bit. Mainly that's because he hasn't released how he created it.

I also looked at various off the shelf plugs and thus far I haven't seen one that would at all come close to fitting in the less than 3 inches between the cover and the port unless you hack it up and break the latching mechanism, and even then not sure how well that would fit nor would it likely be safe/clean.

I've seen it mentioned here about tapping into the wires. That could probably be done somewhat safely but I'm going to put that in the not clean category. The other issue is to undo it would likely require replacing the port and its attached harness which appears to cost over $400.

The last idea that I have which I think would be safe and clean is to hack into the wiring harness using the OEM plugs. The charge port connects right near the front of the engine compartment. Reading the service manual I'm not sure if I'm seeing the right connection but it looks like it's either Connector number: H6 and Connector Type: TM03FOR or Connector number: H8 and Connector Type: HV03FOR I would need the male and female version of the connector that is on back of the charge port part number: 296B1M 296B1-3NA0D

So the idea would be to find male and female versions of that plug then basically create a Y to the EVSE. The pilot/proximity signals would need a switch so you could disable the onboard EVSE.

Fro

So that gets me to my real question. What is the likelihood that we could find the correct connectors to use? The physical connector doesn't seem to have any external markings to indicate a part number.

Thanks!

 

[EVDRIVER]

That entire page is really scary, Not to mention the lack of understanding of L1 and L2.

 

[QueenBee]

That entire page is really scary, Not to mention the lack of understanding of L1 and L2.

Yeah So how does your 6.6kw charger connect to the J1772 inlet?

 

[EVDRIVER]

That entire page is really scary, Not to mention the lack of understanding of L1 and L2.

Yeah So how does your 6.6kw charger connect to the J1772 inlet?

Well, I did not say it did, however it does with no issue. A little trick but it can't connect at the back of the car.

 

[mitch672]

He does have some good points about using L1 charging at work.
Maybe his solution with the PVC pipes is a bit questionable...

See his IEEE paper: http://www.aprs.org/Energy/Charging/IEEEpaper.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[QueenBee]

Another concern I had was if the cord reels would be water resistant enough to last under the hood/etc. I found these reels made for this project and even mention EVs as an application. Unfortunately it's $190. http://www.retractable-extension-cord.com/arctic-leash-vehicle-mount.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://shop.arcticleash.com/product.sc?productId=24&categoryId=12" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[jclemens]

First time I have seen that guy (DIY Charging)
I am working on a similar project, but by no means will I ever use "plumbing". but I might be forced if a 32amp version is in demand.
I have a working prototype I am currently testing, it also does not have GFCI since it is redundant in most cases. It does 16amps at 240V and 12amps at 120V. In my final version will come with a short dongle, but you supply the #12 (12 AWG) extention cord yourself. (this makes shipping cheaper). I hope to sell it for about half of what home depot charges for their indoor L2.

Here is a picture (not much to see, just a j1772 plug on the end of an extension cord, electronics are inside and it works!)
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10100437724229657

it would even work with a spooler like this

 

[bmo]

Is there a reason why you couldn't use the trickle charger? Run an extension cord from the outlet to the back seat, through the window. Put the trickle charger on the back seat. Plug it into the extension cord. Run the EVSE cable through the same back window to the front charger port. Roll up the window (careful to not pinch the two cables) so the trickle charger can't "get out", but passing the cords through.

If someone is desperate enough to break the rear window to get your charger, they'd probably be willing to break a window to get it out of your trunk, too. Someone could steal your extension cord more easily. Your leaf would likely send you a nice message saying your it has stopped charging.

 

[QueenBee]

Is there a reason why you couldn't use the trickle charger? Run an extension cord from the outlet to the back seat, through the window. Put the trickle charger on the back seat. Plug it into the extension cord. Run the EVSE cable through the same back window to the front charger port. Roll up the window (careful to not pinch the two cables) so the trickle charger can't "get out", but passing the cords through.

For security I endorse the under the hood version of what you described but either would work. My issue with them is just that they are not clean and quick.

I am working on a similar project, but by no means will I ever use "plumbing". but I might be forced if a 32amp version is in demand.
I have a working prototype I am currently testing, it also does not have GFCI since it is redundant in most cases. It does 16amps at 240V and 12amps at 120V. In my final version will come with a short dongle, but you supply the #12 (12 AWG) extention cord yourself. (this makes shipping cheaper). I hope to sell it for about half of what home depot charges for their indoor L2.

Interesting take on Ingineers idea of having the EVSE be in the plug, like his GFCI looking mock ups. Why do think it's going to cost you so much to make? I don't mean to disqualify the time time it'll take you but with the Levinton 30 amp J1772 plugs and cable going for $125. Nice to see others are thinking outside the standard EVSE foot prints.

 

[TEG]

The car uses a dedicated "purpose built" charging plug/socket for a reason.
NEMA plug/socket really isn't designed for such a high unplug/replug duty cycle. The pins are likely to wear out quicker than with a proper J1772.
Also the J1772 keeps the power pins de-energized until the vehicle says it is connected and ready for charge.
With those glorified extension cords you could unplug while the vehicle is charging causing arcing and further premature plug/socket wear.

 

[QueenBee]

The car uses a dedicated "purpose built" charging plug/socket for a reason.
NEMA plug/socket really isn't designed for such a high unplug/replug duty cycle. The pins are likely to wear out quicker than with a proper J1772.
Also the J1772 keeps the power pins de-energized until the vehicle says it is connected and ready for charge.
With those glorified extension cords you could unplug while the vehicle is charging causing arcing and further premature plug/socket wear.

Which are exactly the reasons why J1772 is needed to provide a reliable mass market charging infrastructure.

 

[jclemens]

Is there a reason why you couldn't use the trickle charger? Run an extension cord from the outlet to the back seat, through the window. Put the trickle charger on the back seat. Plug it into the extension cord. Run the EVSE cable through the same back window to the front charger port. Roll up the window (careful to not pinch the two cables) so the trickle charger can't "get out", but passing the cords through.

For security I endorse the under the hood version of what you described but either would work. My issue with them is just that they are not clean and quick.

Interesting take on Ingineers idea of having the EVSE be in the plug, like his GFCI looking mock ups. Why do think it's going to cost you so much to make? I don't mean to disqualify the time time it'll take you but with the Levinton 30 amp J1772 plugs and cable going for $125. Nice to see others are thinking outside the standard EVSE foot prints.

I'm in Canada, the cheapest J772 plug i could get cost me 166$CAD after shipping and tax. Add electroncs rated for extreme temperatures, weather proofing, 50' #12 extention cord and labor to assemble and it is going to be around 400$. As for the 125$ one, Leviton does not ship to Canada
The homedepot one probably costs them about the same, but standard retail markup is 100% so they sell around $800.

My motivation for creating my cable is to have a charge cable at work. Currently I use my upgraded L1 EVSE at home as my primary charger. I use a SPX power express on the road because it is robust and I can adjust the current if I need to (so far, has not come up) I have created adapters to plug in anywhere. but I still need an extention cord +adapter to plug in the 120V outlet at work. I dont want to be fiddling with extention cords and adapters when it starts snowing/raining, so I made my own dedicated 50' J1772 cord.