Well if I had known the extent of the damage at first I would have done this. When I thought it was just tires I was willing to eat that. Then when it was just tires and a control arm, ok I can deal with that. But now that it is a bigger issue I might just have to do an insurance claim. But my deductible is probably $1,000. I guess if I can get the city of SF to pay for it due to their crappy road construction I'll do it. I just think it will raise my already super high insurance rates even higher and not be worth it.
Lower control arm replacement on a 2013
- Thread starter kevinleaf
- Start date
Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:
The saga continues:
I had the steering rack replaced for $1500 or so with parts and labor. Now they say the strut is also bent so they couldn't get one of the alignment values in spec. They service advisor told me it was off by 0.2 degrees but I'm not seeing this on the report. Does anyone know how to read these things?
How far off is this and is it worth another $500 repair to get it in spec?
The car is still acting very funny when it hits grooved pavement: pulling hard to one side in a yaw type motion which is very alarming at 75 mph.
I had the steering rack replaced for $1500 or so with parts and labor. Now they say the strut is also bent so they couldn't get one of the alignment values in spec. They service advisor told me it was off by 0.2 degrees but I'm not seeing this on the report. Does anyone know how to read these things?
How far off is this and is it worth another $500 repair to get it in spec?
The car is still acting very funny when it hits grooved pavement: pulling hard to one side in a yaw type motion which is very alarming at 75 mph.
UBUYGAS
Well-known member
The LEAF flying off the road at 75MPH would not be a good thing. $500 now is easier than $14K for your funeral.
TomT
Well-known member
I see a small amount of Camber error and a large amount of Steering Axis Inclination error. The latter is large enough that I would not be comfortable driving the car as it currently is... I think a repair is mandatory...
Wow I didn't realize funerals were so expensive. I should fix it ;-) The car isn't darting off the road but certainly feels squirrley.
"steering axis inclination" is that the "included angle" mentioned here? And would a slightly bent strut cause this? I'm just afraid the dealer is going down the list of everything to fix and this is just the next thing in their list.
"steering axis inclination" is that the "included angle" mentioned here? And would a slightly bent strut cause this? I'm just afraid the dealer is going down the list of everything to fix and this is just the next thing in their list.
Stanton
Well-known member
I hate to say "I told you so", but I told you so: there's no such thing as a "cheap" front end repair (my last one was over $4k--and no it wasn't my Leaf); sometimes it's like peeling an onion. I don't know if you can go back to your insurance company now, but I feel your pain.
And yes, funerals can cost that much (my Dad's was about $12k a few months ago).
And yes, funerals can cost that much (my Dad's was about $12k a few months ago).
TomT
Well-known member
Yes, Included Angle is the sum of the camber and SAI angles in a front suspension. This angle is measured indirectly and is used primarily to diagnose bent suspension parts such as spindles and struts. Your measurements are telling you that something is bent...
kevinleaf said:
yujungchang
Active member
Kevin,
I have similar problem like yours, just hit the center island and blew up right front tire, plus the bent right lower control arm. The dealer is asking $1100 to replace the 2 control arms, so I'm wondering the ending of your story. Thanks!
I have similar problem like yours, just hit the center island and blew up right front tire, plus the bent right lower control arm. The dealer is asking $1100 to replace the 2 control arms, so I'm wondering the ending of your story. Thanks!
Just replace the one that is bent. No need to replace both unless both are damaged. Part is $250 as I recall and install should be no more than 2 hrs, probably 1 hour. And if your strut housing is bent, like mine ones, that will add to it. I have not done the strut yet and my car drives just fine, but I did not check tire wear lately.
yujungchang
Active member
Thanks! I did ask the dealer to fix just one side first, but just afraid the steering/strut are bent like yours. The left side does not look bent, but it does have sign of scratches at the bottom of the left control arm. I called the nearby dealer and they sell the control arm $30 cheaper for $230, ~$200 with 15% Costco discount. Also found oreillyauto/kragens sells the aftermarket control arm(Juke) for $77 and that's a huge difference, maybe I'll go with that next time 
yujungchang
Active member
Yes, I think dealer will do the alignment check for free in their ads, but I have not think of this. Already asked them to do the alignment, but definitely good to ask them on this for sure. Thanks!
yujungchang
Active member
Came back from the dealership, with one controller arm plus alignment barely make it to within the spec. However it has a low humming or periodic drumming sound when running over 42mph and less noticeable when running over 65mph (still hear it at maybe a bit higher pitch). Asked the tech to ride with me and he seems to indicate the wheel bearing is bad, not the hole from underbody covers.
Nissan sold the hub with wheel bearing and cost about $160~190. Wonder if I can use something like this from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6N1XCS/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, which cost $50. How difficult to replace the wheel hub? Any comment on it as far as durability? Also if one side is OEM hub with the other side as after market one, etc? Thanks in advanced!
Nissan sold the hub with wheel bearing and cost about $160~190. Wonder if I can use something like this from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C6N1XCS/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, which cost $50. How difficult to replace the wheel hub? Any comment on it as far as durability? Also if one side is OEM hub with the other side as after market one, etc? Thanks in advanced!
garsh
Well-known member
I replaced one of the front wheel hubs on my last car. I had a Haynes repair book for my car so that I could read & see what was required ahead of time (as far as tools & techniques). It wasn't all that difficult, and there was no problem with replacing just one side. You'll have to get another alignment done afterwards.yujungchang said:
