leaf stereo amp install questions

[3ricj]

Starting a new thread specifically about installing a 3rd party amp in the leaf..

I'm looking to install a 4 channel amp to drive new speakers in my leaf.

The amp I have selected is the JL Audio XD400/4, driving 4 Focal 165 KRC2 speakers.

http://www.jlaudio.com/xd400-4-car-audio-xd-amplifiers-98261" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.focal.com/en/car-audio-sound/haut-parleurs/kits-2-voies-se-pare-es/165-krx2.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I've already installed the main drivers in the doors + dynamat.. already sounding much much better, but these speakers need much more power (and lower THD.. the factory deck is really crap, but I don't see myself changing this any time soon. I used 1" thick High Density MDF bonded with epoxy and filler to the metal door panels. My first version used the existing m6 bolt pattern, but I was unhappy with the fit even with dynamat under it - - the sheet metal was bending causing airgaps about 1/8".

Questions:

Where are folks stashing their amps? The amp I have is 2" tall x 8.5" wide by 7" deep. It looks like there might be space under the glovebox, but it's not ideal for mounting. Passenger seat is another option, but routing cables to and from there might be a pain. Is there any room under the center console?

Are there any hidden (unused) holes in the firewall which could handle a 4awg power cable coming from the battery? I've been searching but so far it looks like I might need to drill my own hole in the firewall, and it's really kinda tricky as they've packed all kinds of gadgets up in the engine compartment near the accessible places (foot wells, above the glovebox, etcetc)

I've not yet opened up the pillars to replace the tweeters - - I have the service manual, but I was wondering if anyone had some photos of that process, specifically of what the existing tweeter mounts look like.

Finally - I have been considering replacing all of the speaker wire to the main drivers, but the cable bundles are a a rats nest and it's clear that the service manual color codes seem pretty much based on fiction. Has anyone replaced the wiring on the front door connector (d22/m11 + d2/m10)? Is it possible to install replacement pins? Where can I purchase said pins?

Is the accessory line I want really pin 7 on the m83 connector? The manual has several pins for different states (on vs accessory vs illumination..)

Does anyone manufacture a breakout cable which works with the leaf stereo? I can just tap into the lines I need, but I'd much rather find a breakout so I'm not mucking with the factory wiring as much.

Some knowledge sharing:

- If anyone doing this work encounters the airbag flashing problem, this fix worked for me: http://www.nissanforums.com/frontier/96232-air-bag-warning-light.html#post944663" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- for doing door work, you can find the replacement clips on ebay: search for pn: 80999-VE000
- harbor freight sells two sets of tools for working on trim and panels. "blue" and "yellow". I can't find the yellow ones online, but they are much higher quality. Here's the link to the blue set: http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers,
-3ric

 

[TomT]

Do not connect directly to the battery as this will bypass the Hall Effect sensor. Be sure to connect on the other side of the sensor that is attached to the battery.

Are there any hidden (unused) holes in the firewall which could handle a 4awg power cable coming from the battery?

 

[defiancecp]

There is a rubber sealed grommet with a huge number of wires going through it in the far driver's side firewall. A very careful slit can allow you to pull a power wire through it and still be sealed tight. Obviously you must be VERY careful not to cut the wires, and to keep the slit small enough that it still compresses over the wire, but I fit a 4-gauge through, and it works brilliantly and seals up tight. Don't think an 0-gauge would work, but you shouldn't need that unless you're in the 100A+ range anyway...

As for amp locations, I'm using the hatch; Have a large sub box with the amps mounted to it and custom covers and such.

For the tweeters, the a-pillar trim starts pretty easy; just pull it and it pops off - HOWEVER - there is a semi-permanent strap after the initial clips are popped off. It'll pull away from the panel about 6-8" and stop. If you try to pull any further at that point you'll damage the panel - the ONLY way to remove that last clip (and this is per the service manual) is to cut it. However, once cut, the panel still re-attaches fine, so no harm done.

The leaf stereo harness is a standard modern nissan harness. I bought two aftermarket metra harnesses (70-7552) and an 'stock' metra harness (71-7552) and attached them to each other. Then I had to add in a small number of wires that weren't on the aftermarket harness (steering wheel button wires - I pulled extra wires from the second aftermarket harness and moved them to the one I was using).

heheh - I triggered the air bag warning light as well, it happens if you turn on the car while the 'light' is unplugged. Had to do the power button on-off trigger sequence for reset, I assume that's what you linked?



As for post-hall-effect vs direct to battery, I connected directly to the battery. I'm not comfortable putting 50 or more amps through any kind of factory wire without a LOT of consideration... I know by adding a 50-amp load we're basically already doing that to the dc-dc converter circuit, but I did a LOT of investigation before I was comfortable with even that much...

 

[TomT]

FYI, If you connect right after the sensor, you are connecting to a heavy buss bar that is directly off the battery so that should not be an issue.

As for post-hall-effect vs direct to battery, I connected directly to the battery. I'm not comfortable putting 50 or more amps through any kind of factory wire without a LOT of consideration...

 

[defiancecp]

Gotcha - I didn't realize the HES was on that bar. Makes sense.

Also, on the tweeter 'mounts' - basically it's just a perforated spot in the a-pillar and a screw hole on the back side. The tweeters just mount to the screw hole. Mounting a normal tweeter there is going to require complete re-thinking... but luckily it's hidden from view, so it doesn't necessarily have to be pretty.

 

[3ricj]

What is the risk of bypassing the hall effect? Could this kill the 12 volt battery because the DC-DC system won't see power coming out of it? Surely they also monitor voltage...

if it's just a matter of the system not seeing the power consumption.. I'm ok with this..

Do not connect directly to the battery as this will bypass the Hall Effect sensor. Be sure to connect on the other side of the sensor that is attached to the battery.

Are there any hidden (unused) holes in the firewall which could handle a 4awg power cable coming from the battery?

 

[3ricj]

My understanding is that this strap protects the passenger from getting hit in the face by the molding when/if the airbag goes off. Does anyone know how to order replacement straps (the service manual says replace, but fails to provide a part number).

For the tweeters, the a-pillar trim starts pretty easy; just pull it and it pops off - HOWEVER - there is a semi-permanent strap after the initial clips are popped off. It'll pull away from the panel about 6-8" and stop. If you try to pull any further at that point you'll damage the panel - the ONLY way to remove that last clip (and this is per the service manual) is to cut it. However, once cut, the panel still re-attaches fine, so no harm done.

 

[3ricj]

The leaf stereo harness is a standard modern nissan harness. I bought two aftermarket metra harnesses (70-7552) and an 'stock' metra harness (71-7552) and attached them to each other. Then I had to add in a small number of wires that weren't on the aftermarket harness (steering wheel button wires - I pulled extra wires from the second aftermarket harness and moved them to the one I was using).

Thanks for the lead. I found this cable on a different forum which should make this process much easier:

http://ae64.com/20-pin_breakout_harness.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

.. the standard metra harness doesn't have the extra pins (as you pointed out).. but this breakout cable looks ideal. I will report back how well it works.

Is there a section on the wiki I could document this on? Forums make it very hard for others dig up this info...

 

[Deleted member 3147]

FYI, If you connect right after the sensor, you are connecting to a heavy buss bar that is directly off the battery so that should not be an issue.

As for post-hall-effect vs direct to battery, I connected directly to the battery. I'm not comfortable putting 50 or more amps through any kind of factory wire without a LOT of consideration...

I may be wrong, but I thought Phil (Ingineer) said the hall-effect current sensor is on the negative lead to the battery and warned to connect equipment ground to the chassis and not the negative battery lead. I don't think there is an issue connecting to the positive lead.

Edit: I found Phil's posting: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1763&p=184154&hilit=battery+12v#p182298. Indeed, the positive terminal is safe.

 

[TomT]

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I was, in fact, referring to the negative pole...

I may be wrong, but I thought Phil (Ingineer) said the hall-effect current sensor is on the negative lead to the battery and warned to connect equipment ground to the chassis and not the negative battery lead.

 

[UBUYGAS]

How did these stereo systems turn out?

Do you guys have any pictures?

I wasn't planning on connecting to the HU, I was going to bypass the speakers and run their signal wires to the trunk and connect them to my LOC. Then I will connect the LOC to my two amps and send new speaker wires to my (4) Drivers and my 2nd Amp will power a Sub in my trunk.

Info and Pics of my install will be posted here: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13889" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks, Lasareath