L2 portable generator charging

[knightmb]

You have put lots of thinking and time into this solution. I am wondering why it has to be level2. If you are planning for an emergency, why not have a smaller, cheaper, simpler, lighter choice that you are dragging around every day and will maybe use once a year at most?
Why not keep a cheap spare 110 volt charge cable and a simple harbor freight generator.
I like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2500-peak2200-running-watts-47-hp-125cc-portable-inverter-generator-61171.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Probably it would produce cleaner power as well. No need it blowing up your onboard charger with some poor power output from a basic generator. You'd take longer to charge, but at 4 miles of charge per hour, unless you are really out in the sticks, running the gen for an hour will get you where you need to be. This is also arguably more quiet than your generator solution.

Thanks for sharing your solution, these are just my thoughts.

Get the EVSE modification for 20amps and this generator could do really well for charging, even at 110 volts since that generator supports up to 20 amp load.

 

[knightmb]

Someone suggested buying a UPS and keeping it in the car, found one :mrgreen: A big ass 240 volt UPS would be the same weight as generator with no smell of gas! less capable range extending of course http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SQI67U/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It has built in inverter and self charger too!

Max Configurable Power 2700 Watts / 3000 VA Buy used for around $800 bucks with shipping

The UPS would only give you range that you measure in feet, the lead acid batteries just don't store enough useful power for a vehicle unfortunately. The generator route is probably the only practical way currently short of buying another big Lithium battery pack that would be very expensive.

 

[stevon]

Knightmb,
Ad says "Not for sale in California" for one thing. Already have the open EVSE which is adjustable
10A, 16A, 20A, 30A......80A at 100 to 250V input. My SPARK EV only takes 12amp max at 120 volts with the factory EVSE.
Also I needed the generator when visiting a friend in Temecula, 56 miles one way. I assumed she had a 220 dryer connection, asking her about it was not useful information. when I got there, there was no 220 outlet available for L2 charging so generator saved my bacon in that situation. (see previous post) http://www.mynissanleaf.com/posting.php?mode=quote&f=9&p=427293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You have put lots of thinking and time into this solution. I am wondering why it has to be level2. If you are planning for an emergency, why not have a smaller, cheaper, simpler, lighter choice that you are dragging around every day and will maybe use once a year at most?
Why not keep a cheap spare 110 volt charge cable and a simple harbor freight generator.
I like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2500-peak2200-running-watts-47-hp-125cc-portable-inverter-generator-61171.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Probably it would produce cleaner power as well. No need it blowing up your onboard charger with some poor power output from a basic generator. You'd take longer to charge, but at 4 miles of charge per hour, unless you are really out in the sticks, running the gen for an hour will get you where you need to be. This is also arguably more quiet than your generator solution.

Thanks for sharing your solution, these are just my thoughts.

Get the EVSE modification for 20amps and this generator could do really well for charging, even at 110 volts since that generator supports up to 20 amp load.

 

[chuck101]

Chuck101,
Thanks for your input.
Wanted to "do it once, do it right" the first time. Why a half ass solution? Besides as you can tell I really enjoyed the process. The extra 70 lbs isn't noticeable, car handles and accelerates great! When stuck on the side of the road minutes matter, every minute is more aggravation and/or embarrassment not to mention dangerous. Went to another friend's house at 56 miles one way. She and her neighbors had no 220 plugs in their houses available. Was forced to run the generator to get home until 11:00pm. The neighbors put up with the noise but not if generator was running until 6am the next day at L1 ! Tested the generator's power quality with the Fluke power analyzer and found that the Pramac S2800's pure sine wave and THD output was the same as SDGE supplied power to the house. The inverter types have "square" sine waves. http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/104393/to-what-extent-are-pure-sine-wave-power-supplies-marketing-spin" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
With the hatch closed, gen out of sight and piece of mind, I'm happy with the result of this project.

You have put lots of thinking and time into this solution. I am wondering why it has to be level2. If you are planning for an emergency, why not have a smaller, cheaper, simpler, lighter choice that you are dragging around every day and will maybe use once a year at most?
Why not keep a cheap spare 110 volt charge cable and a simple harbor freight generator.
I like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2500-peak2200-running-watts-47-hp-125cc-portable-inverter-generator-61171.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Probably it would produce cleaner power as well. No need it blowing up your onboard charger with some poor power output from a basic generator. You'd take longer to charge, but at 4 miles of charge per hour, unless you are really out in the sticks, running the gen for an hour will get you where you need to be. This is also arguably more quiet than your generator solution.

Thanks for sharing your solution, these are just my thoughts.

I am not sure what is half assed about charging at 110 for 'emergencies'.
C'Mon. You wouldn't run a generator till 6am if you could plug in to the house's 110. I do appreciate the work you put in, don't get me wrong. I just don't think the majority if it is necessary. Where are you driving that you can't find a safe spot to pull off to run a generator and charge? You have 80 miles to plan for a spot, it is not like a flat tire or something. Find a nice spot to chill and charge if needbe.....
Also, with the other poster noticing that the HF generator I linked could push 20 amps, even more fuel to my idea. If they don't sell it in CA, there are several of these types of generators from other manufacturers that may be CARB compliant.

If you are going to a friend's house 50 miles away, you probably should take a different car or just spend the night. If you did that, plugin to their 110 overnight is all you need.

 

[knightmb]

If you are going to a friend's house 50 miles away, you probably should take a different car or just spend the night. If you did that, plugin to their 110 overnight is all you need.

Even though I know my Leaf can do 100 miles at leisure comfortable speeds, we do often visit relatives that are +50 miles away. So we plan to stay for the day for example. We drive out, not worry about range. Then plug into the 120v outlet outside and just charge the entire time we are there. After the visit, the vehicle has enough extra range to enjoy a leisure trip back. It's all about the planning really, the same one would do with a gas car. We all just take gas stations for granted, but until charge stations outnumber gas stations are like they do in Japan for example, it takes a little more effort to plan trips.

 

[chuck101]

Exactly. No need to crank out a generator.

 

[TimLee]

Post deleted and user banned.

Must have been a really BAD post :shock: :shock:
Got busy and hadn't caught up on new posts for a few dsys, so never saw it.

 

[stevon]

Knightmb,
You make some valid points. I planned to plug in when I got there but Spark EV's 12A max at 120 volt would have taken 14 hours to recharge, I had 6 miles left on car when I arrived. L2 @ 240 was required to charge and get home in time for the next day (Monday). Next trip I'll use a cut 240 volt A/C extension cord and wire it into an available circuit breaker

to wire to an available circuit breaker. Power distribution panels are often outside in SOCAL

If you are going to a friend's house 50 miles away, you probably should take a different car or just spend the night. If you did that, plugin to their 110 overnight is all you need.

Even though I know my Leaf can do 100 miles at leisure comfortable speeds, we do often visit relatives that are +50 miles away. So we plan to stay for the day for example. We drive out, not worry about range. Then plug into the 120v outlet outside and just charge the entire time we are there. After the visit, the vehicle has enough extra range to enjoy a leisure trip back. It's all about the planning really, the same one would do with a gas car. We all just take gas stations for granted, but until charge stations outnumber gas stations are like they do in Japan for example, it takes a little more effort to plan trips.

 

[baustin]

If you regularly make the trip out there, just buy an EVSE and install it at their house. You can order one from Home Depot for $399. I understand the generator for emergencies, but if you are using it often to charge the vehicle, you should probably just be driving an ICE car.


Another option would be to use a portable EVSE, and install the proper outlet at the remote location.

I also looked at the portable generator option. For now, I have a basic OpenEVSE unit with a 50 amp RV plug that I carry in the car.

 

[GlennD]

I have a Champion 2000W inverter generator that works well at 120V. I purchased a 3500W Harbor Freight generator in the hope of L2 charging. It was a waste of money since when the EVSE trys to charge the generator momentary bogs down and the EVSE drops out. The generator runs non critical loads like a large fan just fine.

I would guess that it requires a very large generator or one using inverter technology.

 

[stevon]

GlennD

16 amp at 240 volts is 3840 watts. Also maybe the HF advertised "3500" watts is misleading. If you had an adjustable EVSE like the openEVSE tm or the Juicebox tm you can dial down the "current available" to 10amps @240 volts for example. Car would only require 10 amps at that point. A 2800 watt max 240 generator worked for me after I set it to 10 amps or 2.4Kw charge rate. The EVSE ground issue was resolved by the Pramac factory bonding neutral to ground. No resistor trick needed. Maybe you could tweak EVSE amp setting to say 13 or 14 amps to squeeze every drop out of the gen.

I have a Champion 2000W inverter generator that works well at 120V. I purchased a 3500W Harbor Freight generator in the hope of L2 charging. It was a waste of money since when the EVSE trys to charge the generator momentary bogs down and the EVSE drops out. The generator runs non critical loads like a large fan just fine.

I would guess that it requires a very large generator or one using inverter technology.

 

[stevon]

knightmb,
sorry for the delayed reply, I've carefully squeezed every drop out of my genset. On the Spark EV at L1, max input is only 12 amps @120 volts or 1440 watts. At L2 level the Pramac S2800 generator bogs down to a halt at only 14 amps @ 240 volts (Spark 3.3kw max input). On the openEVSE current settings choices were limited only to 10, 16, 20, 24, 30 amps by the default code loaded in it. It's possible to recompile changes in the code and re-flash EVSE EEPROM. But by setting it to 10 amps@240v or 2400 watts it's at the Pramac generator's continuous rating anyway and it works well enough. The generator produces clean pure sine wave power, confirmed with a Fluke power analyzer.
Stephen

You have put lots of thinking and time into this solution. I am wondering why it has to be level2. If you are planning for an emergency, why not have a smaller, cheaper, simpler, lighter choice that you are dragging around every day and will maybe use once a year at most?
Why not keep a cheap spare 110 volt charge cable and a simple harbor freight generator.
I like this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2500-peak2200-running-watts-47-hp-125cc-portable-inverter-generator-61171.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Probably it would produce cleaner power as well. No need it blowing up your onboard charger with some poor power output from a basic generator. You'd take longer to charge, but at 4 miles of charge per hour, unless you are really out in the sticks, running the gen for an hour will get you where you need to be. This is also arguably more quiet than your generator solution.

Thanks for sharing your solution, these are just my thoughts.

Get the EVSE modification for 20amps and this generator could do really well for charging, even at 110 volts since that generator supports up to 20 amp load.

 

[desiv]

Get the EVSE modification for 20amps and this generator could do really well for charging, even at 110 volts since that generator supports up to 20 amp load.

I think he has a 2012 Leaf (based on his SIG), and I don't think the 2012 will take more AMPs on L1??
I think I read (making that up???) that the 11/12 models will only take 12 (is it 12?) AMPs at 110v, regardless of the EVSE..

Would be nice if that was wrong, as i have a 12 myself.. ;-)

desiv

 

[GlennD]

I used an OpenEVSE but the generator will handle the load but just not quickly enough. It momentary bogs down but then recovers.

OpenEVSE used to have the steps at 5A. 3.7.8 and 3,4.9 have the table at 2A steps. The table is in plain text and you can have any steps you want. I used to modify it to 2A steps ans a 50A limit since that is the current J1772 plug max. You just need to upgrade the firmware.

 

[stevon]

GlennD,

Thanks for the info! Haven't made any changes to the openEVSE yet but may need to in the future. I was able to use the default current choices available to work with my portable 240 L2 generator and fix problem of start charge, gen boggs down then car disconnects, gen recovers, car reconnects in an endless loop.

I used an OpenEVSE but the generator will handle the load but just not quickly enough. It momentary bogs down but then recovers.

OpenEVSE used to have the steps at 5A. 3.7.8 and 3,4.9 have the table at 2A steps. The table is in plain text and you can have any steps you want. I used to modify it to 2A steps ans a 50A limit since that is the current J1772 plug max. You just need to upgrade the firmware.

 

[stevon]

FOR SALE For Spark EV (or other EV) portable L2 2.4 kw generator with safety cables and lock. Includes adjustable current pilot signal OpenEVSE $700 plus shipping or stop by San Diego and pick it up. Will help install it if you bring your Spark EV with you. It is small and fits safely under hatch shelf.
I traded in the Spark for a Fusion Energi and no longer need the genset/ range extender. Contact me offline at [email protected] for more info and/or pictures
Stephen

Portable charging at L2. After getting stuck and towed 300 yards to my friends house decided I needed a portable emergency charge solution on board the car, sort of a spare tire which is another project. Looking for portable generators at 240 volt the list gets short here in America. Found one, a Pramac S2800 http://www.zoro.com/pramac-portable-generator-rated-watts2400-160cc-s2800/i/G8491594/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&KW3&gclid=CJmWyN-13cUCFQ8waQod5pwAhg&gclsrc=aw.ds" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Desc:
Portable Generator, Rated Watts 2400, 160cc
by PRAMAC
Technical Specifications
Zoro #: G8491594 | Mfr #: S2800
Fuel Tank Capacity: 0.45 gal. Fuel Type: Gasoline
Run Time Hour Meter: No Cylinder Material: Cast Iron
Engine Alternator: Mecc alte Outlets: (1) 120V 5-20R
Voltage: 120 Engine Size: 160cc
Standards: EPA Height: 16-5/8"
Warranty: 3 Month Commercial Use Sound Level dB: 74
Run Time @ Full Load: 2 hr./Tank Run Time @ 1/2 Load: 2.6 hr./Tank
Circuit Breaker: Yes Width: 14-3/8"
Engine Brand: Subaru Engine HP: 6
Length: 21-3/4" Full Power Switch: No
Low Oil Shut Down: Yes Surge Watts: 2800
Rated Watts: 2400 Starter Type: Recoil
Amps @ 120/240V: 20/10 amps
Air Cleaner Type: Paper
Item: Portable Generator Zoro Number: G8491594
Mfr Number: S2800
Product Description
Portable Generator, Rated Watts 2400, Surge Watts 2800, Engine Brand Subaru, Voltage 120, 20/10 Amps @ 120/240V, Circuit Breaker Yes, Engine Size 160cc, Engine Alternator Mecc Alte, 2 hr./Tank Run Time @ Full Load, 2.6 hr./Tank Run Time @ 1/2 Load, Sound Level dB 74, Engine HP 6, 0.45 gal. Fuel Tank Capacity, Recoil Starter Type, Air Cleaner Type Paper, Low Oil Shut Down Yes, Length 21-3/4 In., Width 14-3/8 In., Height 16-5/8 In., Full Power Switch No, Gasoline Fuel Type, Outlets (1) 120V 5-20R
Some modifications were needed for my application, Unit arrives set up tor 120 volt only with both coil outputs tied together on a 1 pole 20A circuit breaker.

Removed the 20 amp circuit breaker and separated the generator coil outputs then rewired for 240 volt output. (see Mecc Alte diagram)

Picked up a double pole circuit breaker: http://www.ebay.com/itm/201185736018?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Then added a right angle cable clamp from the hardware store to the back cover with a L14-20 female plug and some cable.
http://stevon.myevblog.com/wp-admin/upload.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
My calculations of load being 8 amps@ 240 volt + 1920 watts total. purchased a portable EVSE charging station kit [http://store.openevse.com/products/openevse-30a-standard-charge-station-combo

(clear cover my modification)
It accepts any input voltage from 100 to 250 volts, switches upon detecting voltage and communicates via the SAE J1772-2001 standard protocol through the J177 cable. EVSE charger sets voltage and available amps on the vehicle's onboard charger. plugged in open EVSE charger, connected generator, set dashboard current to 8 amps for a test, started generator and let her rip!
N.G. Problem, generator voltage dropped to 200 volts and car disconnected EVSE. Gen sped back up, voltage returned to 248, car re-engaged charge, then 1 minute later, same scenario ~ loop! WTF! Looked into non-linear loads and harmonic distortion as the possible problem and solutions for it. Bad power factor? Harmonic Distortion?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and a possible solution https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=worppwXhezI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPFKcUxbNuQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . In order to solve this problem I needed precise information to make calculations and to arrive at precise values to purchase parts and design a solution. What was needed was a power analyzer like a Fluke 43B meter. At $1600 dollars a little pricey for one project. Decided on a used meter found in Bakersfield CA. for $300, He wanted cash only, face to face, living in San Diego 400 miles + away, that was impractical. Talked him into a postal money order and it arrived last Friday. As a test made a "bread board" for easier measurements See picture

hooked up meter, connected the car to house current then started a charge session with dashboard current set to 8 amps. Load seemed quite linear at 240 volts, 0.99 Power Factor with 12 percent THD. A puzzle, why did the generator overload? Second test, connected car, generator and openESVE charger, set dashboard current to 8 amps for the test, started generator and it loaded down again! meter read 14 amps @ 240v or 3360 watts! No wonder 2800 max watt generator bogged down. the open EVSE charge station allows you to program amps so I reset station from default 16a to 10a @ 240v and the car charged OK (no stalling) on the generator @ L2 2.4 kwatts. PF is 0.98 @ 12percent THD! SUCCESS :mrgreen: Next concern was that if involved in an accident Gen would cruise through the cabin if it was not secured. Chose vinyl coated 1/4 inch aircraft cable and a lock to secure generator to the car with an antitheft side benefit as well. Generator stock cradle had to be modified with some steel and welding.

Total cost in parts was less than $700.00 US