wwhitney
Well-known member
So the conduit is just being used to protect the NM inside the garage? How much of the run is is in conduit and how much is not? For a "sleeving" application, not a complete conduit system, you don't have to meet the conduit fill requirements. But I bet 1" conduit will be easier to use than 3/4". So I suggest using 3/4" EMT (o.d. 0.922") just for getting through the concrete wall, and then upsizing to 1".Mitchell said:I've picked-up the #6/2 NMD cable. At the widest, it is 0.68" across, so using the 53% maximum conduit fill rule, I would need to use 1" conduit -- though that means I've now got to find a concrete drill bit wider than the 1" x 10" long I have now (to get through the concrete block to the garage -- I can't get my drill to the inside side, so need to do the drilling from the garage side). So it is definately tempting to only use 3/4" conduit if allowed.
Cable is building wire, designed to be fixed in place; cord is the flexible assembly on all your appliance plugs. You can't hard wire cord or fix it in place, you need to have a plug on the end of the cord. So you'd need to use a receptacle if you want to use cord.Mitchell said:Interesting that a cable gland can only be used with a plug, not hard-wired.
If you want to hard-wire the EVSE, then you should just run your NM cable into it. You could run your conduit sleeve all the way to the EVSE and attach it to the EVSE. Or you could stop it short and just have an exposed section of NM cable. In which case you'd use a clamping-style cable connector at the EVSE, not a cord gland.
Cheers, Wayne