how to make a level 1 in to a level 2
- Thread starter davidh
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cwerdna
Well-known member
Is (link redacted per moderator request) it? From my quick glance, EEs (I'm not one), esp. those who know the J1772 standard will have a lot to say about this...
TonyWilliams
Well-known member
HOLY SCARY LOONY TUNES !!!
You are on my ignore list, so we must have had some issue with you on the forum.
THIS SETUP IS DANGEROUS AND STUPID, COMPLETELY BYPASSING THE VERY SAFETY OF J1772 PROTOCOLS.
MODERATORS, PLEASE DELETE THIS WHOLE THREAD BEFORE SOMEBODY GETS KILLED.
You are on my ignore list, so we must have had some issue with you on the forum.
THIS SETUP IS DANGEROUS AND STUPID, COMPLETELY BYPASSING THE VERY SAFETY OF J1772 PROTOCOLS.
MODERATORS, PLEASE DELETE THIS WHOLE THREAD BEFORE SOMEBODY GETS KILLED.
cwerdna
Well-known member
I wouldn't be so quick to jump on it being locked and deleted. The EEs familiar w/J1772 should be able to point out the problems w/this concoction.
If the OP is the author, I suspect he will not have good answers as to the J1772 safety protocols and principles he's violated. This might be insightful/instructive to others in the future, esp. if some people are buying substandard "plans" on eBay that I've heard of (but haven't bothered wasting moeny on).
If the OP is the author, I suspect he will not have good answers as to the J1772 safety protocols and principles he's violated. This might be insightful/instructive to others in the future, esp. if some people are buying substandard "plans" on eBay that I've heard of (but haven't bothered wasting moeny on).
TonyWilliams
Well-known member
cwerdna said:
I'm a wee bit familiar with J1772, and what this does is bypass the relay on the EVSE with live voltage. Pressing the proximity button or even removing the J1772 plug would still have live voltage flowing until somebody (the paramedics?) flips off the switch that he has added.
Need more?
EVDRIVER
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2010
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- 6,753
I closed the spam report to delete this thread. If enough people complain we can consider removing it.
Davidh, I see you returned to peddle your nonsense again, we have not seen you in a long time, is this how long it took you to come up with this MIT solution? Your words from other posts:
"I ran a electronics company, I've designed computers, I've taken electrical engineering at MIT; I bet I could figure out a protect relay circuit"
You have already discredited yourself on this site and demonstrated that you are a irresponsible and unethical individual and that you clearly have no regard for the safety of others or the competence level to even comment on this topic. You are encouraging those will little understanding of your foolishness to compromise their safety the safety of others. You have already been put on many people's "foe" list. Please do everyone a favor and keep your reckless ideas and opinions to yourself. Be a responsible individual and stop encouraging people to defeat the main function of an EVSE, SAFETY! Do as you please with your property but refrain giving unprofessional advice.
Davidh, I see you returned to peddle your nonsense again, we have not seen you in a long time, is this how long it took you to come up with this MIT solution? Your words from other posts:
"I ran a electronics company, I've designed computers, I've taken electrical engineering at MIT; I bet I could figure out a protect relay circuit"
You have already discredited yourself on this site and demonstrated that you are a irresponsible and unethical individual and that you clearly have no regard for the safety of others or the competence level to even comment on this topic. You are encouraging those will little understanding of your foolishness to compromise their safety the safety of others. You have already been put on many people's "foe" list. Please do everyone a favor and keep your reckless ideas and opinions to yourself. Be a responsible individual and stop encouraging people to defeat the main function of an EVSE, SAFETY! Do as you please with your property but refrain giving unprofessional advice.
johnrhansen
Well-known member
I'm baffled why people feel they have to go so cheap on the EVSEs. Safety should come first. You just paid 30,000 for the car, whats 300 bucks more to make it safe?
essaunders
Well-known member
cwerdna
Well-known member
FWIW, many of us didn't pay "30,000 for the car". I'm leasing. So far, I've paid a whopping $314 so far and have another $314 due in a bit over a week.johnrhansen said:
Over the life of my lease, IIRC, my payments + disposition fee should come out to ~$7600.
Those who are leasing in states w/no sales tax on EVs (or no sales tax in general) will pay significantly less, esp. if they're getting a less well equipped Leaf.
Just if anyone wants to know how to *correctly* upgrade an L1 EVSE to L2, it would go like this:
An EVSE consists of 3 basic building blocks: A contactor/relay, a logic board, and a DC power supply for the logic board. The relay switches the two power lines (in an L1 EVSE they're hot-neutral, and in an L2 EVSE, they're hot-hot, but they're supposed to still both be switched either way).
If the DC power supply is separate from the logic board, then there are two possibilities:
1. the power supply will accept input voltages that span across the L1 or L2 voltage range. That is, they'll take 120 or 240 VAC.
2. the power supply will only accept 120 volts and will release the magic smoke if you feed it 240 (and perhaps damage the logic board as well).
If you *know* that number 1 is the case, then all you have to do is wire the input up for a 240 volts. If you don't know, or suspect that number 2 is the case, AND if you know the voltage and current requirements of the logic board, then you could replace the power supply with one that accepts wider voltage ranges. Having done that, then you proceed as in case 1.
That doesn't change the ampacity of the EVSE at all. If the EVSE's pilot is set for 16A, then you'll have a 16A L1/L2 EVSE on your hands. Whether the logic board allows for pilot level adjustment would be another thing you'd need to research. It's conceivable that you might have to replace the logic board as well if you wanted to boost the pilot.
Now, there's enough questions implied in that discussion to include a healthy dose of "kids, don't try this at home."
At the end of the day, it's probably easier to just build an OpenEVSE - particularly if you find you'd need to replace the power supply and logic board anyway.
An EVSE consists of 3 basic building blocks: A contactor/relay, a logic board, and a DC power supply for the logic board. The relay switches the two power lines (in an L1 EVSE they're hot-neutral, and in an L2 EVSE, they're hot-hot, but they're supposed to still both be switched either way).
If the DC power supply is separate from the logic board, then there are two possibilities:
1. the power supply will accept input voltages that span across the L1 or L2 voltage range. That is, they'll take 120 or 240 VAC.
2. the power supply will only accept 120 volts and will release the magic smoke if you feed it 240 (and perhaps damage the logic board as well).
If you *know* that number 1 is the case, then all you have to do is wire the input up for a 240 volts. If you don't know, or suspect that number 2 is the case, AND if you know the voltage and current requirements of the logic board, then you could replace the power supply with one that accepts wider voltage ranges. Having done that, then you proceed as in case 1.
That doesn't change the ampacity of the EVSE at all. If the EVSE's pilot is set for 16A, then you'll have a 16A L1/L2 EVSE on your hands. Whether the logic board allows for pilot level adjustment would be another thing you'd need to research. It's conceivable that you might have to replace the logic board as well if you wanted to boost the pilot.
Now, there's enough questions implied in that discussion to include a healthy dose of "kids, don't try this at home."
At the end of the day, it's probably easier to just build an OpenEVSE - particularly if you find you'd need to replace the power supply and logic board anyway.
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