EdmondLeaf
Well-known member
This is what was used form 8 to 83% last night. Subtract .15kWh for other uses for each hour, rest is Leaf. Temp while charging 45F.
If you were charging at L2 it would be quick enough that it is likely that the time it takes would be pretty much irrelevant. I will assume that your S has the standard 3.3 kW charger. Level 2 charging would add about one fuel bar per 25 minutes. Level 1 charging would add about one fuel bar each hour and a half. If the S has an end-time-only timer you can just set it to about when you plan to leave the next day and ignore how or when the car charges. (However, if you have "time of use" electrical rates that might not be optimum.)Bazooka said:...I guess the answer is to just keep an eye on the battery level and remember that going from X% to 80% takes about Y hours, but that seems rather silly to us.
I don't doubt that the extra electricity savings wouldn't pay for a Level 2 EVSE installation over the term of a lease. But some of us like L2 for the convenience of being able to charge relatively quickly and expect to have future EVs that can use it. For those of us in the snowbelt L2 also allows much better preheating capability, which is a big deal.Right now, I'm using the L1 EVSE until we figure out an economical way to do in-house 240v recharging, as there are no public charge points that are convenient. The cost of getting an electrician to put in a 240v receptacle plus buying the other hardware (from evseupgrade or wherever) is way more than we'll spend on electricity to fuel the car for three years.
This has been said over and over and is in the EVSEupgrade.com FAQ:(Nissan should seriously consider shipping a dual-voltage evse with the Leaf, or making it an option. For people like me who are leasing, there is no good path to an L2 evse. If I upgraded the one that came with the car, I doubt Nissan would be pleased when I handed it in...)
Nissan doesn't ship a portable EVSE that will use 240 V because they assume that most owners will have a Level 2 EVSE installed in their garage and the "trickle charge" portable EVSE supplied with the car is for occasional opportunity charges, not everyday use.I am leasing my LEAF, and am worried I might be penalized if I turn my car in with the upgraded EVSE.
At the end of your lease we will be happy to downgrade your unit for free. (you cover the shipping) I'm sure any other LEAF owner with an original unit would also be happy to swap you as well, and maybe you can even make some cash on it! In a pinch, you could simply cut the molded L6-20 connector off and install a standard screw-on plug just like the EVSE is originally shipped with, which you can purchase at any hardware store. Another option is to simply buy an additional already upgraded unit from us and keep your original unit in the trunk.
Bazooka said:Nissan should seriously consider shipping a dual-voltage evse with the Leaf, or making it an option.
I could't agree with you more!Bazooka said:The business of AeroEnvironment having such an endorsement edge and Nissan discouraging trickle charging and pushing customers toward an unnecessary piece of wall mounted hardware is absurd, simply because it isn't needed, and it's exactly the kind of add-on cost and hassle that will deter new adopters.
I like it! How about: "Open the pod bay doors, Hal.", or "Danger, Will Robinson, Danger!"Bazooka said:It really does need an option for configuring the power-up sound. The possibilities (and humor value) are almost endless... "WOULD YOU LIKE TO PLAY A GAME?"; [Star Trek warp speed sound effect]; [HAL voice]: "I've still got the greatest enthusiasm and confidence in the mission. And I want to help you.", etc. :|
Doesn't the provided EVSE have built in circuit testers to detect wiring problems? No argument, though, on the twist lock. Also, I personally think that the provided EVSE should have a standard mechanism to lock it in place - yes, I know the workarounds, but those are after all just workarounds.RegGuheert said:I personally feel that L1 charging is more dangerous than L2 given that there are so many poor-quality plugs out there with stabbed-in wiring and the plugs do not provide a locking mechanism like the twist-lock found on the connectors Phil provides on the upgraded units.
RegGuheert said:I personally feel that L1 charging is more dangerous than L2 given that there are so many poor-quality plugs out there with stabbed-in wiring and the plugs do not provide a locking mechanism like the twist-lock found on the connectors Phil provides on the upgraded units.
I just had reason to look this up, so I'll post it here as well. A dedicated 120v line can be converted to a 240v line fairly easily. Here are instructions that Phil posted a long time back: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2707&p=73701&#p73701" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;RonDawg said:I'm lucky in that I had an unused 120 volt 15 amp outlet in my garage to plug my Leaf into. It's for a whole-house vacuum system that doesn't work anymore (there's a break in a pipe somewhere) and it's just plain loud, which discourages me from fixing it anyway. It's not shared with anything else so it makes the perfect outlet to plug my Leaf into, even if not as conveniently placed as I would like. I am seriously considering having an electrician turn this into a 240 volt outlet and have my EVSE upgraded, but another more pressing home repair issue has just cropped up so it's on hold for now.
Ingineer said:... First, be absolutely sure that it is a dedicated circuit! Use extreme caution!
1. Cut power to the service panel feeding the circuit.
2. Shut off and remove the original single-pole breaker (15 or 20A).
3. Locate the white neutral wire and remove it from the Neutral Bus bar.
4. Use red tape to cover the white wire so that it's now clearly red.
5. Verify power off and Remove the old outlet.
6. Tape the white wire here as well.
7. Connect and install the new 240V outlet. (Black to X, Red to Y)
8. Install the new 2-pole 15 or 20A breaker.
9. Wire the black and (now) red wires to the 2 screws on the breaker.
10. Replace the panel cover, restore power, and then turn on the new breaker.
-Phil
There is a thread titled, "Better (reverse) SOC meter already in the car?" The premise is that the 120V recharge time as shown has several times as many steps as the 12-bar "fuel gauge". That's all I'll say here about that; it seemed fairly successful, and you can go read that thread if you like.Bazooka said:The time to recharge to 80% seems way off between the 120v and 240v estimates, with the 120v value changing a lot, and for no apparent reason. For example, we just came home from running an errand, and when we got in the car in the parking lot the time to recharge read 120v: 8:30, 240v: 2:00. As soon as I started driving, the 120v time dropped to 4:30. A few miles later it was up to 6:00, and a couple of miles later it was 6:30, all while the 240v estimate didn't change. (Total drive home during all these number changes was about 10 miles, done in eco mode.)
The EVSE can test for things like leakage currents, but it can't tell if the outlet is getting hot. That's not so much a wiring problem as it is parts of the system wearing out. Those things mentioned are frowned upon specifically because they wear out so readily.cgaydos said:Doesn't the provided EVSE have built in circuit testers to detect wiring problems?
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