It's good to be concerned when electric power is involved. The short answer is, although it's not something I would do every day, it will likely work OK. A 15 amp breaker is not likely to trip at 16 amps. If the wiring is so marginal that 16 amps is a problem, it would also be a problem at 12 amps. This is why you need to check voltage under load when plugging into unknown outlets. If there's a significant voltage drop under load, regardless of how the circuit is rated, there is a problem; don't use that outlet!brownga said:My one concern with this type of option is using it in an older home where I'm not comfortable drawing 16 amps if the receptacle circuits are only 15 amps. Is my concern misplaced?
A Kill-a-Watt plugged into the same outlet will work.brownga said:How do you recommend checking the voltage "under load"? Plug the EVSE into one outlet, start charging at 120 volts and check the voltage in the other outlet? I'm assuming that just checking with a voltmeter won't provide enough load to be a valid test. Thanks.
brownga said:How do you recommend checking the voltage "under load"? Plug the EVSE into one outlet, start charging at 120 volts and check the voltage in the other outlet? I'm assuming that just checking with a voltmeter won't provide enough load to be a valid test. Thanks.
tps said:It's good to be concerned when electric power is involved. The short answer is, although it's not something I would do every day, it will likely work OK. A 15 amp breaker is not likely to trip at 16 amps. If the wiring is so marginal that 16 amps is a problem, it would also be a problem at 12 amps. This is why you need to check voltage under load when plugging into unknown outlets. If there's a significant voltage drop under load, regardless of how the circuit is rated, there is a problem; don't use that outlet!brownga said:My one concern with this type of option is using it in an older home where I'm not comfortable drawing 16 amps if the receptacle circuits are only 15 amps. Is my concern misplaced?
Kitchen outlets on counters are required to have GFIs, at least in my area. I think a unit combining the two 120v sources will trip the GFI.mitch672 said:Another hint that Ingineer already suggested is to use 120V outlets in the kitchen or the garage, kitchen outlets in the counter area are almost always rated at 20A (for kitchen appliances such as mixers, toasters, etc), and in general adjacent 120V outlets are on different breakers, and 120V legs if your lucky.
It would, although a newer home that would have the GFCI, is also likely to have 20a, not 15a breakers, allowing you more choice in places to plug in.91040 said:Kitchen outlets on counters are required to have GFIs, at least in my area. I think a unit combining the two 120v sources will trip the GFI.mitch672 said:Another hint that Ingineer already suggested is to use 120V outlets in the kitchen or the garage, kitchen outlets in the counter area are almost always rated at 20A (for kitchen appliances such as mixers, toasters, etc), and in general adjacent 120V outlets are on different breakers, and 120V legs if your lucky.
tps said:brownga said:How do you recommend checking the voltage "under load"? Plug the EVSE into one outlet, start charging at 120 volts and check the voltage in the other outlet? I'm assuming that just checking with a voltmeter won't provide enough load to be a valid test. Thanks.
That would be one way. I built a meter box for that purpose.
Gary, go back to page 9.garygid said:What part numbers, and where exactly did you get them, please?
johnr said:And here is what it looks like outside
broncoa said:What is this 120-220 really used for? 2 -120 volt plugs to make 220-240 volts ac. Are you using this to charge your leaf? I only have a 120 volt charger now. I bought a wrecked Leaf but running and will need a 220 level 2 charger later. I beleave there is more than running 220v to the Leaf? :shock:
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