Compatibility of 3.3KW Charger with New 2013 Leaf 6.6 System

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BEVeedom

Active member
Joined
Oct 23, 2012
Messages
31
Will our old 3.3KW Level II chargers allow 6.6KW charging if plugged into the new 2013 Leaf SL?

I know that the wall or pedestal unit is really a "power conditioner" and that the charger is actually onboard the car.

The required 40 amp breaker for the existing 3.3KW tells me that the old Level II units can handle 6.6 KW with ease.

P=IE
?=40(240)
?=9600
9600(80%) (NEC safety margin)
7680 or 7.68 KW

But are they designed to allow 6.6KW charging without replacement or mods? Thanks.
 
If the "old" L2 (240v) EVSE was one that could "offer" 30 amps
(like the original AV units and generally any others that
were installed on a 40 amp circuit with a 40 amp breaker),
then it was usually installed such that the Control Pilot signal
produced by the EVSE actually "offers" 30 amps to the car.

Then the older cars with 3.3 kW chargers would just "sip",
using only about 15 or 16 amps.

A newer car with a 6.6 (or 7.x) kW onboard charger will usually
"gulp" the fuel, using about the full 30 amps offered, at least
during the "main" (full power) part of the charging cycle.

As the battery pack gets closer to full, or is colder, or hotter,
the power draw from the wall (through the EVSE, which is
mostly just an intelligent switch) will usually decrease
substantially, as determined by the battery monitoring
system in the car.
 
If you're talking about a Blink or AV-style wall-mounted EVSE, they are capable of delivering the 6.6kW charging current. If you're talking about a converted cordset, it will not deliver that much power.

But, as we've seen in other threads, I would keep an eye out for heating effects on the Blink's J1772 handle.
 
The J1772 charge connector is compatable with all J1772 vehicles and will allow the vehicle to charge at the lower of the vehicle or connector rating.
 
I've been using my blink for both our 2012 Leaf and the 2013 Tesla Model S for a couple of weeks now. The Tesla tests for impedance and chooses a 30 amp draw automatically, which I think is around 6.6kW's, someone can correct me if I'm wrong. At times I've had it charge for 15 hours and no detectible heating issues.
 
GaslessInSeattle said:
I've been using my blink for both our 2012 Leaf and the 2013 Tesla Model S for a couple of weeks now. The Tesla tests for impedance and chooses a 30 amp draw automatically, which I think is around 6.6kW's, someone can correct me if I'm wrong. At times I've had it charge for 15 hours and no detectible heating issues.
It has nothing to do with "testing for impedance". The Blink communicates it's max capacity of 30a on the pilot pin, and the Tesla limits itself to that.
 
davewill said:
GaslessInSeattle said:
I've been using my blink for both our 2012 Leaf and the 2013 Tesla Model S for a couple of weeks now. The Tesla tests for impedance and chooses a 30 amp draw automatically, which I think is around 6.6kW's, someone can correct me if I'm wrong. At times I've had it charge for 15 hours and no detectible heating issues.
It has nothing to do with "testing for impedance". The Blink communicates it's max capacity of 30a on the pilot pin, and the Tesla limits itself to that.
Right. The signal presented by the EVSE on the "pilot pin" is a 1kHz +/-12V Square Wave. The maximum allowable current draw (for example -- 30A) is a number encoded by the duty cycle (%-on versus total time) of the Square Wave (in this example 50%).

(For the Geeks -- some of the full details: here.)
 
ok, my bad, so how does the stock Tesla EVSE deal with all the variation given all the adapers/outlest, without any signal coming from a charging station?


LEAFer said:
davewill said:
GaslessInSeattle said:
I've been using my blink for both our 2012 Leaf and the 2013 Tesla Model S for a couple of weeks now. The Tesla tests for impedance and chooses a 30 amp draw automatically, which I think is around 6.6kW's, someone can correct me if I'm wrong. At times I've had it charge for 15 hours and no detectible heating issues.
It has nothing to do with "testing for impedance". The Blink communicates it's max capacity of 30a on the pilot pin, and the Tesla limits itself to that.
Right. The signal presented by the EVSE on the "pilot pin" is a 1kHz +/-12V Square Wave. The maximum allowable current draw (for example -- 30A) is a number encoded by the duty cycle (%-on versus total time) of the Square Wave (in this example 50%).

(For the Geeks -- some of the full details: here.)
 
The EVSE signals the maximum current that it can provide via the pilot signal and the charger in the car then draws whatever amount it wants up to the limit of the charger or EVSE capacity, whichever is lower.

GaslessInSeattle said:
ok, my bad, so how does the stock Tesla EVSE deal with all the variation given all the adapers/outlest, without any signal coming from a charging station?
 
GaslessInSeattle said:
ok, my bad, so how does the stock Tesla EVSE deal with all the variation given all the adapers/outlest, without any signal coming from a charging station?...

Their EVSE creates a pilot signal and sends it to the car.
It creates a different pilot signal depending on which plug end you attach to the cable.
(It has an extra circuit to let the EVSE know what kind of plug you are using.)

It has no idea what sort of breaker or wiring is behind the socket, but makes assumptions about what wattage should be available from different types of sockets.
 
OP: You should edit your title. For L1 and L2 charging, the charger (aka on-board charger) is in the car. The L1 "trickle charge" cord set and and L2 permanently mounted or portable L2 unit is an EVSE. They are not chargers.
 
TEG said:
GaslessInSeattle said:
ok, my bad, so how does the stock Tesla EVSE deal with all the variation given all the adapers/outlest, without any signal coming from a charging station?...

Their EVSE creates a pilot signal and sends it to the car.
It creates a different pilot signal depending on which plug end you attach to the cable.
(It has an extra circuit to let the EVSE know what kind of plug you are using.)

It has no idea what sort of breaker or wiring is behind the socket, but makes assumptions about what wattage should be available from different types of sockets.

No, this isn't correct. The EVSE has NO IDEA what plug you may have on the end of it (it appears Tesla did not follow the J1772 exactly, and may actually be able to do this), nor is there a protocol to provide that information in J1772. A stock Tesla Model S or Roadster can select how many amps the car will draw from the dash of the car. If you were plugged into a 240 volt air conditioner at a motel with a 20 amp plug and breaker, and the EVSE were the standard 40 amp unit that comes with a Model S, and the Model S were set to over 20 amps, it likely won't work too well (either popped breaker or overheated wires and possible fire).

From Chris Howell's basics of the J1772:
http://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/J1772Basics" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Pilot

The J1772 Pilot is a 1khz +12V to -12V square wave, the voltage defines the state and the duty cycle defines the current available to the EV. The EVSE sets the duty cycle and the EV adds resistance from the pilot the Ground to vary the voltage. The EVSE reads the voltage and changes state accordingly.

State -- Pilot Voltage High - Pilot Voltage Low - EV Resistance - Description ----- PWM
State A ---- +12v ------------ N/A --------- N/A ---- Not Connected --- DC
State B ---- +9v ------------ (-12v) ------- 2.74k ---- Connected ----- 1000 Hz
State C ---- +6v ------------ (-12v) -------- 882 ----- Charging ------ 1000 Hz
State D ---- +3v ------------ (-12v) -------- 246 - Ventilation Required - 1000 Hz
State E ------ 0 -------------- 0 ----------- N/A ----- No power ------- N/A
State F ----- N/A ----------- (-12v) --------- N/A ---- EVSE Error ------- DC


Max Current

Up to 51A Amps = Duty cycle x 0.6 Duty cycle = Amps / 0.6

51 - 80A Amps = (Duty Cycle - 64) 2.5


Duty - Max
Cycle - Current
< 3% -- (Error)
3% ---- 7% (Digitial Com Required)
10% --- 6A
20% --- 12A
30% --- 18A
40% --- 24A
50% --- 30A
60% --- 36A
70% --- 42A
80% --- 48A
86% --- 55A
88% --- 60A
90% --- 65A
92% --- 70A
94% --- 75A
96% --- 80A
>96% - (Error)


Proximity Signal

This is a simple check of either 150 ohms (connected) or 150 + 330 ohms (button pushed to disconnect)
 
The Tesla portable EVSE can detect the Tesla plug adapter being used and set the pilot signal.accordingly...
 
smkettner said:
It just works. If you want to know all the gory scientific details it is all detailed in the "open evse" thread.


It works, makes sense, I'm good, thanks. I as well have a Schneider unit
 
TonyWilliams said:
drees said:
The Tesla portable EVSE can detect the Tesla plug adapter being used and set the pilot signal.accordingly...

Ok... not part of J1772 !!!! But, certainly smart.

The following is from the Tesla Owner's Guide:

The current automatically sets to the maximum current available from the
attached charging cable, unless it was previously reduced to a lower level.
If needed, you can change the current by touching the up/down arrows.
You may want to reduce the current if you’re concerned about overloading
a domestic wiring circuit shared by other equipment. When you change the
current, Model S remembers the location for which you changed it. So if
you subsequently charge at the same location, you don’t need to re-adjust.
Keep in mind that reducing the current increases charging time.


I'm guessing that Tesla has designed their cords so that the NEMA rating of the various adapter plugs is used to set the current draw of the on-board charger in the car. Note that the National Electrical Code states that a continuous load, such as an EV, must not draw more than 80% of the circuit rating. I presume that Tesla prevents the user from exceeding this rule. So, a 240v 40a dryer plug, which is fairly common, should be limited to 32 amps. The kilowatts this provides is then a function of voltage.

It sounds like the Tesla remembers settings by location--brilliant!
 
TonyWilliams said:
...No, this isn't correct. The EVSE has NO IDEA what plug you may have on the end of it...

Tony, you are usually correct, but not always...
 
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