Nekota
Well-known member
QueenBee said:Nekota said:Schematic is referenced on lincomatic's site
Yeah, but the github repo is out of date. It has firmware version 1.2 but the boards shipped with 1.3 and it's missing the actual board layout. I connected 12v to the regulator 12v pin and after more trial and error got things working! For some reason my backlight - pin didn't have ground, fortunately there was one near by.
Just some tips that are probably obvious:
Follow the images and don't sandwich the large OBD cable between the LCD and the board, it doens't fit well.
Obviously smaller OBD cable would be nice but the one linked was easy.
When testing it be careful, thankfully accidently shorting one of the unused wires just resulted in a fuse blowing.
Don't forget to adjust the potentiometer for contrast
If I'm understanding correctly the original schematic is setup to read the various canbuses by switching jumpers, these boards don't need any jumpering to read the EV bus though.
Don't mix up the color and color/black OBD wires
Lincomatics 3d printed case is a lot better fit than the project box linked.
Plan how your OBD cable is going to exit the box. Exiting out what turned out to be the right side and not the left side was a bad idea.
My understanding of the numbers displayed:
The top row is the remaining pack capacity/state of charge displayed in 4 different formats. KW/H, GID count, percent where 100% is 281 GID, and Lincomatics fixed fuel bar.
The second row has pack voltage, unknown number? and instantaneous watts (pack voltage * instantaneous amps)
Thanks Lincomatic and Chris! Now to ponder how I feel about 4.6% loss after 10.5k miles and 1.25 years.
I just checked the board I have and Q2 is missing which is used to control the power to the LCD backlight . It's a surface mount and it is present on the boards in the first message pictures of the boards. Grounding to the nearby pad is an appropriate solution for those boards that don't have the transistor installed.