Adding a male plug to a hard-wired wall charger

[overfedexed]

Hello,

I'm kind of new here and love all of the info. I have a base 2013 Leaf, 6.6 charger. QC option.

I have a question about adding a male plug, to a wall charger that is supposed to be hard-wired. I did a search, but didn't find exactly what I was looking for so...

I bought a Square D, Evlink charger from Lowes, http://www.lowes.com/pd_382390-296-...evlink&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=evlink&facetInfo=

It's an EV230WS, 240 volt, 7.2 Kw, 30 amp. I want to make it portable, but of course the instructions say not to. I have a 40 amp, 8-3 wire setup and I was going to get an electrician to put in a 6-50 receptacle.
Also, to cover my equipment, I was going to use a 6-50 male plug and wire it into the charger.

Is there really any harm in doing this? I figured that it would void the warranty, but is this setup safe and am I using the right equipment?

Thank you and I enjoy all of the info here.

 

[mwalsh]

The only problem with it (or so my recollection goes) is that it will violate NEC if you wire a device that way when it's not supposed to be. Though if you asked me what the difference would be between the two of a model that has both a version that can be hard wired and a version that comes with a plug, I'd be hard pressed to tell you. But so long as you use the correct grade of wiring between the plug and the EVSE, I personally don't see a problem with it.

 

[overfedexed]

The only problem with it (or so my recollection goes) is that it will violate NEC if you wire a device that way when it's not supposed to be. Though if you asked me what the difference would be between the two of a model that has both a version that can be hard wired and a version that comes with a plug, I'd be hard pressed to tell you. But so long as you use the correct grade of wiring between the plug and the EVSE, I personally don't see a problem with it.

Thanks,

I would have purchased this model with the plug, but they didn't offer it. I bought this one for $599.

I will go search for the male plug today, so that it's ready for the electrician on Monday.

Thanks again.

 

[greengate]

You must get the male plug, (and female receptacle to match,) that that meets the load requirements for your EVSE unit.

A 30 amp plug and receptacle to match will be different from 40 amp plug and receptacle.

(I did this and was advised to also place in line a disconnect switch to avoid the possibility of sparking or a shock when unplugging the unit, which I did. Over kill? Maybe. I don't really know, but for the 30 bucks the disconnect switch cost me, it was a no brainer.)

 

[garygid]

Is your EVSE rated for indoor use only, or does it also allow outdoor use?

If you want to avoid the hard-wire and use a plug, that usually means
that you want to make the EVSE portable and plug in elsewhere.

To be legally portable, a 240v EVSE must meet additional safety
requirements, and be used only indoors. There is no legal 240v
outdoor plugin EVSE (for example to use at an RV park), I believe.

A 30 (or 32) amp EVSE, being a continuous load, should be wired to
at least a 40 amp breaker and circuit.

RV parks typically have a 14-50 receptacle, not 6-50, I believe.
There are old and new style electric dryer sockets.
So, consider the other places that you will try to use the EVSE.

If you intend to use it at several different socket types, you might
wire a suitable twist-lock male (plug) to your EVSE. Then, make or
buy several short adapters, each using a matching twist-lock female
socket (receptacle) and the appropriate plug to match the intended socket.

 

[overfedexed]

You must get the male plug, (and female receptacle to match,) that that meets the load requirements for your EVSE unit.

A 30 amp plug and receptacle to match will be different from 40 amp plug and receptacle.

(I did this and was advised to also place in line a disconnect switch to avoid the possibility of sparking or a shock when unplugging the unit, which I did. Over kill? Maybe. I don't really know, but for the 30 bucks the disconnect switch cost me, it was a no brainer.)

Thanks for this info.

The electrician said something about code and a disconnect. Then he said that since I could see the panel, from where the receptacle will be, that I wouldn't need one. I still might install one.

I'm going to use a L6-50P with a L6-50R. Does that sound right?

 

[overfedexed]

Is your EVSE rated for indoor use only, or does it also allow outdoor use?

If you want to avoid the hard-wire and use a plug, that usually means
that you want to make the EVSE portable and plug in elsewhere.

To be legally portable, a 240v EVSE must meet additional safety
requirements, and be used only indoors. There is no legal 240v
outdoor plugin EVSE (for example to use at an RV park), I believe.

A 30 (or 32) amp EVSE, being a continuous load, should be wired to
at least a 40 amp breaker and circuit.

RV parks typically have a 14-50 receptacle, not 6-50, I believe.
There are old and new style electric dryer sockets.
So, consider the other places that you will try to use the EVSE.

If you intend to use it at several different socket types, you might
wire a suitable twist-lock male (plug) to your EVSE. Then, make or
buy several short adapters, each using a matching twist-lock female
socket (receptacle) and the appropriate plug to match the intended socket.

The charger is rated for indoor use only. That's where I would be using it, even at another persons house. One friend has a 6-50 receptacle already and I thought that I'd go with that one.
I will buy/make adapters, that is a great idea.

So all of this would still not make it "Legal" correct?

Thanks for the info

 

[MikeD]

overfedexed: NEMA 6-50P and 6-50R (straight blade), no "L" (locking), is I believe what you mean.

Direct wired is safer, however, especially if there are children around. You could make it safer by placing receptacle/plug in a locked protective plastic cover and trying to remove grounded sources near the receptacle, but direct wired is always safer both from a shock hazard and fire hazard prospective. Be aware the NEC usually gives the MINIMUM requirements -- one might decide one wants more than that in certain situations.

 

[smkettner]

I bought a strain relief, cord and plug for my Schneider to plug into my existing 40a wired 14-50 outlet in my garage.
Works just fine over two years. Could easily be moved but it is basically installed permanent.

For portable use I upgraded the OEM brick through EVSEupgrade.com. Much easier to move around than the wall units.

 

[RonDawg]

OP: are you able to return the Schneider unit to Lowe's? If you want a plug-in 30 amp EVSE, go with Clipper Creek's HCS-40, available as a hard-wired or plug in (with your choice of 4 different plugs). That way you are not voiding any warranties and risking damage to an expensive piece of electrical equipment. $644 for the plug-in version (HCS-40P).

http://www.clippercreek.com/store/product-category/new-products/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you can live with 20 amp charging, the EVSE Upgrade is a good lower-priced solution.

 

[overfedexed]

I bought a strain relief, cord and plug for my Schneider to plug into my existing 40a wired 14-50 outlet in my garage.
Works just fine over two years. Could easily be moved but it is basically installed permanent.

For portable use I upgraded the OEM brick through EVSEupgrade.com. Much easier to move around than the wall units.

Where did you get your supplies from and thanks for all of your input.

 

[overfedexed]

overfedexed: NEMA 6-50P and 6-50R (straight blade), no "L" (locking), is I believe what you mean.

Direct wired is safer, however, especially if there are children around. You could make it safer by placing receptacle/plug in a locked protective plastic cover and trying to remove grounded sources near the receptacle, but direct wired is always safer both from a shock hazard and fire hazard prospective. Be aware the NEC usually gives the MINIMUM requirements -- one might decide one wants more than that in certain situations.

Yes, non locking is what I meant, sorry. I will get the plastic cover. Nobody will be around it, but you never know who might come wandering in.

Thanks for the input.

 

[smkettner]

I bought a strain relief, cord and plug for my Schneider to plug into my existing 40a wired 14-50 outlet in my garage.
Works just fine over two years. Could easily be moved but it is basically installed permanent.

For portable use I upgraded the OEM brick through EVSEupgrade.com. Much easier to move around than the wall units.

Where did you get your supplies from and thanks for all of your input.

http://www.stayonline.com Higher quality than Home depot.
Actually I started with a moulded appliance cord from Home Depot but the 4x #6 cord was too bulky for the strain relief.
Bought some 3 wire #8 cord and the Hubble plug from above. The Hubble plug can be assembled for the cord to exit up, down, left or right so it provides a cleaner look in my garage. Mine goes up.

This is with the moulded plug and the 14-50 connector rotated. This bugged me when plugging in my RV. And again the cord was not properly gripped by the strain relief.

 

[UBUYGAS]

Here's the cover I have for my 6-50R



With all these things you need to add this complete unit is getting pretty heavy.

I would just leave your home only unit at home and pay $287 to upgrade the stock LEAF EVSE at http://www.evseupgrade.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and then buy some adapters. That's what I did.

I bought 4 of these total: http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=index&cPath=7" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=13" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=17" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=18" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[davewill]

... The electrician said something about code and a disconnect. Then he said that since I could see the panel, from where the receptacle will be, that I wouldn't need one. I still might install one.

I'm going to use a L6-50P with a L6-50R. Does that sound right?

My understanding is that the plug can serve as the disconnect. That's how mine was done by Blink when they installed it.

 

[overfedexed]

Thanks for all of the help.

I decided to have it hardwired. I first experimented with different mounting locations, then decided on one and called the electrician.

I love the charging times now and I can finally use the climate control.

Thanks again.