OK.
As I watch my Brusa approaching on FedEx tracking, I'm feeling the pressure here.
Allow me summarize my (our?) goals at this point;
1) Installation should be transparent.
Plug in a 6.6 Kw capable EVSE, and the thing just does its job.
I would like it to be set up so that the Leaf's charging system controls everything, and the Brusa is a parallel slave. Plug in the J1772, the car negotiates the connection, it signals the EVSE to close the contact "Beep...... Beep Beep Clunk" and we are charging.
Now the Brusa sees that it is "OK TO CHARGE" because we have hijacked a signal somewhere that tells it so. (Maybe just the 240AC going hot to the Brusa would do it?)
As the Pack approaches 100%, maybe the Brusa stops charging at 95%, and we let the OBC take it the rest of the way. Or, if we have a timer set, at 80% the leaf tells the EVSE to stop charging, and we lose the 240VAC (and the Brusa loses the "ok to charge signal also) Easy Peasey.
2) "Quickly" removable. I'd like to be able to pull this thing out in an hour and leaving it so that they would have to call CSI Fukashima to find any trace. I don't want to have
THAT conversation with Nissan where they patiently explain why my Right rear wheel bearing has failed because of my Warranty voiding charger install.
I think we agree that except for some tweaking we have the high voltage connection issue solved, and its 100% reversible. Mounting plate is reversible. Tank relocation should be reversible as well.
Option a) If we could find that intermediate socket/ plug set I think that would solve the reversible input connection 100%. And you KNOW that the guys in Xing Chow or wherever sell the things for like $1. if we could find them.
Option b) If we could get the J1772 Inlet and leader assembly at a reasonable price, we could "have our way with it in weird and unnatural ways", and just swap out the original if we needed to. Looks like a 10 minute job.
the second best thing to do would be to modify the existing J1772-Yazaki harness, and if and when you sell the car, replace this part with a new $400 one. But by that time hopefully it will be cheaper, and used parts avalible. I mean, I'd rather make a T too, but... :roll: At least the part looks to be easily removed from the leaf to do the splicing. The two small wires are pilot and proximity (for the switch on the handle to instantly cut the current before removal).
Option c) Not my favorite option, but at this point..... OK.
The J1772 Inlet and leader assembly uses a HUGE orange split convoluted tube as a "cover". If we locate a generic plug / socket combo, inline, small diameter (3/8") that can easily handle the current, I can remove the assembly, Install those connectors onto the pair of 240VAC input legs, and pop them out through the slit in the convoluted tubing. To reverse it, I just unplug my harness from those 2 inline sockets, and slide them back into the orange tubing out of sight.
CSI is gonna smell a rat, but otherwise it's going to remain hidden. This supposes that the Brusa is operating as a slave, and all we need from this harness is the 240VAC and not the pilot signal (although if we had to, we could do something similar with those as well)
Now for option X.
I understand this is not what we want. Just hear me out.
My plug set came with that nice J1772 Inlet already wired on.
I have a Blink EVSE, and I have an EVSE Upgrade 16 AMP.
TEMPORARILY, while we try to solve a couple problems, I/we could open the hood, and connect the EVSE #1 to the Brusa Inlet, and plug in EVSE #2 to the Leaf Inlet... then let them each do their thing independently.............. I know, but just mull it over for a while.
We might gain some insight while we try to solve the reversible plug set problem, and I'm now charging at 6.6 Kw, and It's not like it took extra work.
Anybody have the Brusa Programming Software?