Adapters for Ingineer's L1 to L2 EVSE - NO LONGER AVAILABLE

[mwalsh]

At the train station in Hamilton NJ they have 5 EV parking spots: 4 are 5-20R 120V but 1 is 6-20R 240V.

I'm starting to think this is the smartest (and cheapest) way to go....just install a bunch of 120v/240v outlets and let folks use their own (modified for L2, naturally ) portable EVSEs.

 

[smkettner]

Yes, RVer terminology is a bit weird. If they can plug a 20amp air-conditioner into one (120V) leg, and a 30amp air-conditioner into the other 120V leg then they call it "50 amp service" (20+30). I think a typical RV may only have 120V appliances, and even though they use a NEMA14-50 240V plug/socket it is really just a way to get two feeds of 120V.

That's not correct as I understand it. NEMA 14-50 is a 120/240V circuit that is rated at up to 50A for 120V or 240V applications.

I think the RVers use the 14-50 plug/socket in ways that aren't typical.
For instance, check out the "Dogbone" adapters:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=dogbone+adapter&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1181167407191672565&sa=X&ei=vWm2TZnaPIfGsAOKpr2pAQ&ved=0CDEQ8wIwAg#

The way they state it you get "50 amp service from a 30 amp plug".
The RV terminology just seems to be "50 amp" means NEMA14-50, but they may only have one 120V leg active on the 14-50, and it may be fed by a 30 amp breaker on the other end.
Basically what I am saying is that when you see a cord with a NEMA14-50 on the end at a campground, don't assume it has 50amps of 240V available.

---

http://www.rvtravel.com/publish/120-Volt_AC_Systems.shtml

...Campground hook-ups often have three receptacles: 20, 30 and 50 amps.
...This is because the 50-amp receptacle actually conducts two 120-volt circuits in order to supply the 50 amps that big rigs need.
In effect, it is a 240-volt receptacle, like those used for electric clothes dryers in a house.
RVs with two air conditioners need the 50-amp circuit in order to run both air conditioners at the same time, because each air conditioner runs on a separate 120-volt circuit.
...Adapters are available that will allow you to hook up your RV to any campground receptacle regardless of what type of plug is on the RV power cord. Of course, you are limited to the available amperage at the receptacle. A 20-amp receptacle will limit the number of appliances that can be run at the same time and may not be sufficient to run an air conditioner. An RV that has a 50-amp plug may find that only one air conditioner will operate if plugged into a 30-amp receptacle.
If your RV is connected to a receptacle that is higher than what is required (for example, when a 30-amp power cord with an adapter is plugged into a 50-amp receptacle), you must limit your electrical usage to 30 amps at any one time. Even though 50 amps are available, the main circuit breaker will trip if the RV is pulling more than 30 amps...

That pictured adapter will supply 30a 120v connection to both of the hot leads at the other end into the 14-50r connector.

I would universally count on RV 50a hookups to be rated the full 50a. Usually the RV service is shared and is on a 200 to 400a circuit. There is a 50a breaker at the pedestal to limit the RV to 50 amps.

 

[tps]

At the train station in Hamilton NJ they have 5 EV parking spots: 4 are 5-20R 120V but 1 is 6-20R 240V.

I'm starting to think this is the smartest (and cheapest) way to go....just install a bunch of 120v/240v outlets and let folks use their own (modified for L2, naturally ) portable EVSEs.

In the long run, I think J1772 will dominate. It's very early in the game, especially here on the East Coast where EVs are not often seen. Heck, the only EV I've seen "in the wild" is the NYC Hertz LEAF and only when I've gone there to rent it! Non-J1772 charging outlets are something that will fade as EV adoption becomes more widespread. All of the stuff with "modified for L2 portable EVSEs" and plug adapter kits will be limited to enthusiasts, like us.

 

[mwalsh]

Anyone got ideas for at least some weatherproofing of non-molded L6-20 connections? The Harbor Freight boxes Gary pointed us towards are not big enough to hold Pass & Seymour connectors.

 

[mwalsh]

FYI....I loaned my EVSE to JPVLeaf for the week, while Ingineer is modding hers, and she reports the Pass & Seymour 14-50 plug I chose for my adapter is quite tight and difficult to unplug from the primary outlet she uses.

So I'm taking Garygid's advice and will be replacing it with a Camco PowerGrip plug (which she kindly offered to purchase for me as reimbursement for the loaner), once I have my unit back. I may even go that route for the 10-30 adapter too. In the meantime, I've asked her to be super careful when unplugging from the one outlet she's using. Fortunately, it appears she can kill power to the outlet via the breaker beforehand, so I think she'll be alright.

 

[Ingineer]

FYI....I loaned my EVSE to JPVLeaf for the week, while Ingineer is modding hers, and she reports the Pass & Simpson 14-50 plug I chose for my adapter is quite tight and difficult to unplug from the primary outlet she uses.

So I'm taking Garygid's advice and will be replacing it with a Camco PowerGrip plug (which she kindly offered to purchase for me as reimbursement for the loaner), once I have my unit back. I may even go that route for the 10-30 adapter too. In the meantime, I've asked her to be super careful when unplugging from the one outlet she's using. Fortunately, it appears she can kill power to the outlet via the breaker beforehand, so I think she'll be alright.

Yes, the Camco plugs are great, and much safer!

 

[mwalsh]

Yes, the Camco plugs are great, and much safer!

Yeah. They were up on there on my list initially. But I found myself needing to make at least the one adapter up for her to use without any lead-time, so couldn't wait for a UPS shipment from Amazon.

 

[davewill]

Yes, the Camco plugs are great, and much safer!

Yep, they look great. Since mine are already made up, though, I think I'll try epoxying some kind of handle to the ones I've got. Should be great fun if nothing else!

 

[TEG]

For what it is worth, there was a discussion of Quick220 and Camco back in 2009 on this Tesla forum:
http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/2721-MC240-charger?p=29454&viewfull=1#post29454
http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/2850-NEMA14-50-How-much-current-can-you-pull?p=31108&viewfull=1#post31108

http://www.jcwhitney.com/power-grip-replacement-plugs/p2013114.jcwx?filterid=j8

 

[chocomonsters]

How will this 3rd party modified product affect my home insurance policy. I did read about evseupgrade.com discussing the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, and that maybe so with Nissan's warranty.

In event of fire in garage, I would suspect my home insurance may deny the coverage. I am sure all upgrade parts are UL listed and premium parts, but insurance company wont care. Even if all parts are UL listed, that doesn't make the final product UL listed. I will be wary about any 3rd party modification unless there is assurance regarding home insurance.

 

[davewill]

...In event of fire in garage, I would suspect my home insurance may deny the coverage...

If you would suspect such a thing, you are the wrong type of person to get the modification. Save yourself a lot of concern and find another EVSE solution.

 

[TonyWilliams]

I will be wary about any 3rd party modification unless there is assurance regarding home insurance.

Why not call your insurance company and report back with your findings?

 

[GeekEV]

If you accidentally burn your house down with a cigarette butt, will they deny your coverage? I can guarantee you cigarettes aren't UL listed. Want a less dramatic example? How about a candle? Are they UL listed? You're just being paranoid. Where in your homeowners policy does it say that you may only use UL listed appliances?

 

[smkettner]

You might get cancelled after the settlement but the insurance WILL pay.

 

[GeekEV]

Hi everyone! I just wanted to bump this thread and let you know that the OP has been updated with new ordering instructions. You will now place your order by email instead of PM, so you no longer need to create a forum account if you don't want to. Also, we will now take checks if you don't use PayPal... Please see the first post for more details.

Enjoy!

 

[Creaton]

I was interested in these ones:
16A: EUR 244,00 ( 36005: Mennekes 4meter laadkabel 20A 1-fase mode 3 (L1,N,RA,CP,PP) EV-laadstekker (Type 2) - open eind )
32A: EUR 335,00 ( 36008: Mennekes 4meter laadkabel 32A 3-fase mode 3 (L1,L2,L3,N,RA,CP,PP) EV-laadstekker (Type 2) - open eind )
The 16A cable is actually a 20A cable, but the resistor limits it to 16A. At the end there is no connector, so you can place any CEE connector on it what you like.

 

[EVDRIVER]

If you accidentally burn your house down with a cigarette butt, will they deny your coverage? I can guarantee you cigarettes aren't UL listed. Want a less dramatic example? How about a candle? Are they UL listed? You're just being paranoid. Where in your homeowners policy does it say that you may only use UL listed appliances?

Exactly, not to mention UL is a third party for-profit private company that makes money testing items. It is not a government agency or legal entity and there is no law behind Ul listing. I believe all Ikea products are not UL listed, I would bet most homes have many products that are not UL listed. If one changes a cord end on a product it is no longer UL tested. Many major national sold electrical products are not UL listed.

 

[EVDRIVER]

Are you going to be offering the Gary to L6-20 Adapter?

Here's the picture of the one we offer:

-Phil

This is your best bet for an adapter for general use IMO.

 

[highcountryrider]

What is the current rating on that adapter? :roll:

Are you going to be offering the Gary to L6-20 Adapter?

Here's the picture of the one we offer:

-Phil

This is your best bet for an adapter for general use IMO.

 

[bobs]

I'm preparing to order a Rev2 upgraded EVSE, and an L6-20 extension cord and adapter from L6-20 to my (rental house) garage wiring.

My nearby source of 240V power is a NEMA 10-30 outlet that's currently in use by a laundry dryer. I really can't ask all the household dryer users to switch plugs between the dryer and the upgraded EVSE, but I can ask them to check whether the car is plugged in before they start drying a load of clothes. Similarly with the household's drivers - I can ask them to check first, but I can't ask them to jockey plugs.

Is there a 10-30 Y-plug, or duplex stacker, or any other such product so I can have the EVSE and the dryer plugged in at the same time?