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Good point. I took advantage of the decent money factor and put nothing down, but with enough down then the lease continuance deal could be good. If it were that good, though, NMAC wouldn't offer it.

Cars depreciate more slowly as the months go on. Your original lease was the total depreciation over X months divided by X for the per month rent By continuing your lease after X months at the original rate you're doing NMAC a favor, as the car is no longer depreciating at the original rate...

Updated list of likes and dislikes: Dislikes: - A-pillar and rear view mirror block the car to my right at four way stops thanks to my long torso/high viewpoint - not enough headroom in rear to sit up straight, and it's generally a dark place back there with the rising belt line - minor head...

I test drove an i3 today. From the perspective of a parent with a 20 month old daughter and another on the way, it's too small, even as a second car that will only see occasional kid duty. The cargo area is really disappointing as well. Although I was duly impressed by the great forward view...

As a belated update to this thread: We did indeed lease a 2013 SL. I never installed level 2 EVSE as per the elaborate plans in this thread, though, as level 1 plus occasional level 3 top-offs on the rare high mileage day have sufficed.

Things I dislike about our 2013 SL + Premium: - headrest angle keeps on bumping the back of my head over highway expansion joints - navigation and iPod track selection system interface are both the pits - oddly undersized hatchback door makes removing cargo cover a pain - only barely enough...

My lease was factored using that residual, I believe. Last December for the 2012s it was 63 or 62%, iirc, along with much lower money factor and additional rebates beyond the default $7,500.

We picked up our LEAF today. We went through Younker Nissan in Renton, got VPP (I work at UW and that does it, apparently), and leased for 2 years, 12k miles/yr. Now to see whether 120V charging + the odd use of the Blink network (I have $100 credited there) will be sufficient for our light...

I brought ours home today. 2013 SL + Premium. VPP pricing + 2/24 lease terms worked out to $359/mo, with only the first month's payment + title and license at signing. (No tax on EVs or EV lease payments in Washington, though!)

Two comments harkening back from the first page of the thread: 1) If you're going to be running the cable laterally across rafters or studs then you should bore a hole through said wood (at least 1.25" from each edge of it, so right in the middle for a 2x4") and run the cable through there. If...

Revised simpler/cheaper/no conduit! EVSE + self-wiring plan: - Siemens 30A Versicharge EVSE, in rear-fed configuration, to be mounted on the outside wall of the house/garage - 40A GFCI breaker at the box (Siemens recommends the use of a GFCI breaker whereas Leviton does not) - 8/2 NM-B cable...

The Fit EV also includes free 32A Leviton home EVSE (but not installation).

The cynic would say that we'll see fewer EVs in the future once manufacturers come into full compliance with CARB's ZEV mandate. One could also argue that you should reward Honda for having the guts to sell a "compliance car" outside of California…

FWIW, I worked out the arithmetic on this lease and concluded that it's a screaming deal. It's cheaper to lease than a feature-matched LEAF SV Premium sans QC/LED, by about a third. Furthermore, leasing and operating it for 3 years would cost about 64%, or $6,000+ less (!), than doing the same...

Your region of the country is not "plugged in," unfortunately.

I was wondering about this exact scenario before finding the Leviton installation instructions that depicted that the conduit should be connected from below. For the curious, said instructions are linked in turn from the following link, as it was non-trivial to locate them...

I'm not convinced that stripping NM-B cable and using the individual wires past a certain point is kosher. I'd rather play it straight and splice at a junction box, or run unmolested UF the whole way (see immediately below). Splicing NM-B to THHN seems like it'd be pretty straightforward with...

Thanks for the feedback so far, everyone. Dave in Olympia: On the Seattle DPD website I didn't see a distinction made for indoor vs outdoor EVSE permits. There is the odd 30A language as pointed out one post up. WRT NM-B in conduit: I thought that was frowned upon. Perhaps 1" would be enough...

Seattle requires a permit, but Level 2 EVSE installations explicitly do not require plan submission or review. An inspection after permitting and construction is required before Seattle City Light will sign off on the new circuit. I'll look into the 50A and external disconnect issues.

Answers to anticipated questions: