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No, they don't. But you need the TSB applied before they'll honor the warranty.

Keep in mind it has a $2500 core charge in addition to the ~$2k (I assume, waivable with the return of an existing 40kWh pack?) Unclear if a 24/30kWh pack would qualify for the core charge exchange, since it says it's compatible only with 2018+ Still, $4.5k for a 40KWh pack in good condition...

Muxsan built such a device. The engineering to do it properly and safely while not triggering vehicle codes was considerable. I do not recommend this. If you want one, see if Muxsan has one for sale. Consider swapping with a 40kWh leaf battery (see Dala's canbus adapter) or if you're really...

You asked for advice: Get a bolt. But since you said a local runabout, a Leaf would work well. If you can get it significantly cheaper, go for a Leaf. As for your other questions, I don't know... I have a non quick charging 2011 but highway summer is like 50 miles. Side roads are way more...

I have tried like 5 different batteries in all the keys over the years. Including a brand new key fob from Nissan with a battery from them. Definitely not a single batch. Can't be the battery...

My key intermittently doesn't work in my 2011 SV. I have 2 key fobs, replaced the batteries in both, and they just don't always work. The car almost always starts, sometimes briefly flashes "no key found", but it goes away quickly and I can start it. But unlocking the car is another story...

If you are going to look at forced air cooling, RapidgateDodger would be a much less invasive (and non-battery warranty voiding) option.

If you do retrofit a 40kWh battery (or a 62) and you need a canbus adapter, Dala has software to limit the charge rate which will solve rapidgate. By not charging as at fast of a rate, the battery won't heat up. Your initial charges will be a slightly longer, but you'll be able to maintain...

I have an android phone and used this: https://bafxpro.com/pages/obdsetupvideos Looks like amazon no longer sells them now, though. I can verify this works, though!

Oh yeah, Phoenix. I do NOT recommend Leafs in Phoenix! I've been there... gorgeous place but SO hot.

Once you have the 12v charged, clear the codes and recheck them. If they don't go away when you clear them, I'd probably consider steering clear. Also verify that it can charge--both slow and fast charge.

Lowering the expected range doesn't mean anything--it automatically happens whether it pulls power or not. You need to check the energy use screen on the radio (HUD). Do you have leafspy? Can you pull codes?

It sounds like it could not recognize and talk to the battery. All the symptoms you mention sound like the car thought the battery wasn't there at all. Keep in mind the 12v will power the onboard computers, etc, so you don't need the main battery to wake up the car and communicate with the...

I bought a 2011 in 2018 for $5500 and put a used battery in it a year later, have had it for 6 years, and have done some maintenance: New Shocks, fixing a water leak (from a prior owner accident), changed reduction gear oil, brake fluid, new tires, alignment. Overall it's cost me around...

You may not see one on the dash. You'll need to check with LeafSpy. Chances are NOT that it's a blown fuse--at least, not in the fusebox you're used to. The likely cause is a failed heater element, which is a PITA to get to--and it possibly blew the HV fuse in the DC to DC junction box, which...

Drive the SNOT out of it and get to 8 bars would be my advice. But generally, what people in the forums say is true. If the car drives well, there's nothing you can do other than enjoy it, sell it, or worry. 30 kWh versions do have a tendency to occasionally have cell failures when they...

Then it qualifies for a battery capacity warranty. Get yourself a new battery! Make sure you take it in to the dealer before the warranty ends. DON'T WAIT. Keep in mind you may be waiting a year or two. It's a mess out there. That said, I don't know if a 24kWh can be put into a...

LeafSpy does show an accurate health. If it shows 88.81 SOH, then yes, that's the actual health. That said, if you have one or more cells that are bad or going bad, you can see sudden drops of your miles remaining. When your car is around 20% SOC, your mv difference in LeafSpy should be...

In my leaf, it adjusts the pedal curve, but doesn't limit power. If I completely mash the pedal to the floor, I still get full acceleration. Eco makes a HUGE difference on resistance heat in my 2011. At 0C, the car takes a good 20 mins to warm up in eco mode but ~5m in drive mode.

Something to note: IFIRC, some EVSE's don't do the diode check while others do. If your diode failed, you might be able to charge in some places but not others: That said, there's a LOT of possibilities here--so don't jump to the conclusion you have a diode problem. More details about what...