Recent content by Stanton

Because they do (especially if lead-acid). If I had a $1 for every "my 12v battery is low/old/bad and I'm getting strange dash (or LeafSpy) readings" post on this forum over the last 10 years...it would have paid for my Lithium 12v battery (which pretty much ended those type of problems). ;)

That's not the point: any (low) 12v battery can be the source of incorrect/unreliable codes in a Leaf. There are plenty of threads on 12v battery options for the Leaf; the closest thing you can come to "don't have to worry" is a Lithium-based 12v...but that's a whole other discussion.

Not to derail the thread, but where are you "tapping" the 12v system? I am able to charge my EcoFlow Delta Pro (battery backup) from the Leaf's 12v lighter, but that's not a direct connect to the house/transfer switch.

While true that EVs generate less heat in the engine compartment, even lead-acid batteries suffer from the prolonged affects of heat (where it rarely gets below 80 degrees even at night in the summer). The real killer for lead-acid vs Lithium is: lead-acid doesn't handle discharge below 50% well...

That might work in Michigan, but not in the South/Southwest. I never had a lead-acid battery last more than 3 years in Texas (and have even had them give out in <2 years).

If you're going to spend $300 and you want a "set it and forget it" battery...then go Lithium (and forget the trickle charger). There are plenty of threads on it (search for my name) and they are almost half the price of the one I put in my Leaf...over 10 years ago (that wasn't a typo)!

Depends on the state (and the laws in that state); it ranges from "any individual" (like I was in Texas) to "dealers only" (the majority of states). use the Copart website as a starting point.

Once you confirm/observe this, all bets are off. Range estimates (and turtle) are unreliable until you replace the bad cell/module. I suspect the OP is experiencing something similar. Been there, done that.

Any additional history/details for the car? If not, posting a LS cell voltage screen shot may help. Both the overall voltage and average cell voltage seem low; if you can't get the cells over 4.0v on a full charge, then something is going on with the BMS (or a rogue cell).

^^^THIS I acquired my 40kWh pack from a Copart auction (and it was sold by an insurance company). Like all things--buyer beware--but Copart can be a good source for salvaged Leafs (albeit a bit more $$).

I installed a 40 kWh pack (with built-in heaters) in a 2011 Leaf that had no idea what "battery heaters" were and have no problem; I simply ignored/didn't use the heater port on the (new) pack. So it doesn't seem like the pack itself cares whether it has (working) heater elements or not.

For the record, that is a much lower cost of acquisition than I experienced; in fact, that has to be lowest cost for a 40kWh pack I've ever seen/heard, so you got a great deal. My own experience was in the $12k+ range for a salvaged Leaf with a 40kWh pack (and that was almost 3 years ago now).

Very misleading; not even all locksmiths have a programming tool. Please see post from @henrydehoja : "make sure that the price quote you are provided includes both the key fob & fob programming." Total cost >>$100

You are discovering the joys of low maintenance EVs! Very little to keep track of beyond brakes, (cabin) air filters and (of course) tires. At some point, you might want to consider changing the gear box fluid (plenty of threads about it on the forum), but with your "easy" driving habits, you...

I have used a 4Gig drive on my 2011...and I'm pretty sure the 2011/2012 model years share the same USB chip sets. FWIW, I've noticed that older peripherals (and 10 years old is an eternity in the computer world) can't read drives >64Gig.