2018 Leaf SL 40kWh Battery Stats

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Falcon73

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2021
Messages
49
Location
Mission Viejo, CA USA
Let's see if I can post an image here. This board doesn't appear to have its own image server?

How do these look? From LeafSpy.

Let's see.

SOH: 79.76%
Hx: 56.08%
odo: 39,186 miles (says km here but it's miles)
6 QC's
2442 L1/L2s

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SageBrush said:
Near on 6% - 7% capacity loss a year. That is bad

Ok thanks. I'm avoiding charging it to 100% but Nissan doesn't make it easy to charge slower or to a lower cap. Annoying coming from other cars where this is routine. Also, trying to avoid DC Fast Charging. I also prefer L1 home charging for it.

Also, how problematic is the 56% Hx state? Could it be related to the car being so warm inside even during cooler weather? W/o the AC on it's hard to keep it cool if over 65F outside.

I wonder how bad it needs to get before trying a warranty claim.

Any other ideas are welcome.

Thank you,
 
Falcon73 said:
Also, how problematic is the 56% Hx state? Could it be related to the car being so warm inside even during cooler weather? W/o the AC on it's hard to keep it cool if over 65F outside.

The only advantage of L1 (120v charging) is that people have it if nothing better is available, like 240v charging.

I cannot imagine any connection between the Hx and the poor AC performance. Troubleshoot the A/C like other cars. I'll guess low refrigerant. Look for a leak if that is the problem.

I'll give you advice for your *next* battery (~ 2 years away): don't let it cook. Find shade, minimize DC fast charging, and DO NOT leave the car in a hot garage that is poorly ventilated. These LEAF battery packs do not have active thermal control, so we the owners either take steps to reduce heat loads or watch the battery degrade. Your pack is degrading at about 3x the rate of my car. Some of that might be explained by different climates and usage profile or initial battery quality, and some of it by how we treat the cars.

You are right that Nissan was foolish to take away the option to charge to less than 100% SoC. Search the forum for solutions, it has been discussed many times. The tl;dr version is to mimimize the time the pack spends at 100% SoC in general, and definitely when the pack temperature is over 5 bars (about 70 - 75F.)
 
The only advantage of L1 (120v charging) is that people have it if nothing better is available, like 240v charging.

L-1 charging is useful for keeping the battery warm in frigid weather: the very thing that is usually a disadvantage (very slow charging that takes many hours) becomes an advantage, by letting you keep the battery slightly warmer for many hours, and by providing power for the battery warmer.
 
SageBrush said:
I cannot imagine any connection between the Hx and the poor AC performance. Troubleshoot the A/C like other cars. I'll guess low refrigerant. Look for a leak if that is the problem.

The AC performance is fine. I'm just thinking the battery pack is generating more heat than it did when new. i.e. the battery pack is acting like another seat warmer.

I'll give you advice for your *next* battery (~ 2 years away): don't let it cook. Find shade, minimize DC fast charging, and DO NOT leave the car in a hot garage that is poorly ventilated. These LEAF battery packs do not have active thermal control, so we the owners either take steps to reduce heat loads or watch the battery degrade. Your pack is degrading at about 3x the rate of my car. Some of that might be explained by different climates and usage profile or initial battery quality, and some of it by how we treat the cars.

The tl;dr version is to minimize the time the pack spends at 100% SoC in general, and definitely when the pack temperature is over 5 bars (about 70 - 75F.)

Thank you. We are sending the Leaf to WA state, next month, where it will be garaged (here it's outside in the hot afternoon sun). It should be much happier up there. We may get another Leaf here in SoCal, but I don't know yet. The Ariya will likely be a better choice, depending on the price and how long we can wait to get a 2nd car again. My wife is off work until August or so.

So for my next question, as WA is out 2nd home what battery % should we leave it at for month-long+ storage? I've been using a WiFi SmartPlug to help keep it below 90% charge here and could do the same up there since the car itself doesn't have a limited.
 
LeftieBiker said:
L-1 charging is useful for keeping the battery warm in frigid weather: the very thing that is usually a disadvantage (very slow charging that takes many hours) becomes an advantage, by letting you keep the battery slightly warmer for many hours, and by providing power for the battery warmer.

We plan to only do L1 charging at home in WA state and in the garage. Also, it's usually in the mid 40's in winter.

There's not a lot of CHAdeMO stations in the area, so our "quick" chargers will probably be L2 charging unless the single EA CHAdeMO plug at Walmart is open. The next closest (2 of them) are a 20 minute drive.

To my amazement, WA state is trying to beat Cali by 5 years to no new gas car sales (2030 vs 2035), but they have a LOT more work to do on the infrastructure...
 
To my amazement, WA state is trying to beat Cali by 5 years to no new gas car sales (2030 vs 2035), but they have a LOT more work to do on the infrastructure...

Wait, it was vetoed?


Edit: Oh that was last year... I guess this year's 2030 ban wasn't vetoed...


Washington's Clean Cars 2030 was passed as part of a $17 billion transportation bill that was signed into law on March 25, 2022, by Governor Jay Inslee.
 
I have 91 miles on the trip odo and I'm at 11% or 13 miles according to the GoM. My driving average is 4.0miles/kWh.

Is it time to think about putting in a battery warranty claim? 70% would be 112 miles. The total odo is 39,474 miles.

I'm going to see how far it goes, but the GoM is currently thinking 104 miles.
 
Falcon73 said:
So for my next question, as WA is out 2nd home what battery % should we leave it at for month-long+ storage? I've been using a WiFi SmartPlug to help keep it below 90% charge here and could do the same up there since the car itself doesn't have a limited.
I didn't see this (important) question answered in the middle of all the other discussion.
Any sort of long-term storage should be done with the Leaf traction pack ~50%. Doesn't have to be exact, but whether you do it via LeafSpy (direct measurement) or by the dash (~6 SoC bars)...just do it.
 
If the battery warmer won't be coming on, and if the 12 volt battery is either maintained or removed, then storage voltage would be best at roughly 30%-40%.
 
Falcon73 said:
I'm going to see how far it goes, but the GoM is currently thinking 104 miles.

It ended up at 101 miles with --% left (0%). LeafSpy reported 14% left, so maybe I just need to ignore the dash.

I called the local dealer and all they care about are the bars. So, if my bars were reset, it's a problem. They said 8 bars was the threshold. I wonder what will come first. That or 50 mile range?
 
Falcon73 said:
I have 91 miles on the trip odo and I'm at 11% or 13 miles according to the GoM. My driving average is 4.0miles/kWh.

Is it time to think about putting in a battery warranty claim? 70% would be 112 miles. The total odo is 39,474 miles.

I'm going to see how far it goes, but the GoM is currently thinking 104 miles.

GOM doesn't matter. You have to drop 4 capacity bars to even "start" a claim.
 
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