SageBrush
Posts: 7372
Joined: Sun Mar 06, 2011 2:28 am
Delivery Date: 13 Feb 2017
Location: NM

Re: Replacing AC condenser on a 2016 Leaf S

Nah,

I'll hang around for the circus, watching you screw up because people that could have helped decide to ignore your sorry ass
Go ahead --- keep ordering parts. :lol:
2013 LEAF 'S' Model with QC & rear-view camera
Bought Jan 2017 from N. Cal @ 90% SOH
Two years in Colorado, now in NM
SOL0 7/2022 @ 83% SOH
dorkshoei
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 9:21 am
Delivery Date: 26 Oct 2016

Re: Replacing AC condenser on a 2016 Leaf S

SageBrush wrote: Sun May 22, 2022 2:49 pm people that could have helped
Somehow I doubt the above.
dorkshoei
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 9:21 am
Delivery Date: 26 Oct 2016

Re: Replacing AC condenser on a 2016 Leaf S

So the TRQ 80188 didn't fit as I mentioned above. I wasn't prepared to bend my new high pressure pipe the amount that would have been needed to achieve fitment. Doubly so since the previous pipe had cracked. The TRQ claimed fitment for 2013 to 04/2016 Leaf S.

Since there seemed so much aftermarket fitment confusion I decided I'd better get one in-person locally. 1-800-Radiators had a Pacific Best brand in Seattle that they could get to their Portland store the following day.

The only other brand I could find that (from web pictures didn't have the TRQ issue) was a UAC CN 4368PFC. The UAC claims Xref to 921003NF0A/921005SA2A and 921003NF0B which is both sides of the Nissan 04/2016 changeover and 2013-2019 by model year ~shrug~ but the shop "was no longer allowed to buy UAC" whatever that means.

So the Pacific Best arrives and it's damaged. They did let me take a picture to show the TRQ output pipe difference.

Left to Right, Pacific Best, TRQ and Nissan/OEM:
Image

So they ordered a new Pacific Best. They also said they could get a Cryomax. I had the last minute idea to ask them to please order both to avoid another screw up.

So Friday comes, the Pacific Best is lost in transit but the Cryomax arrived. Both the Cryomax and the Pacific Best have a one piece connection rather than the two piece of the OEM/TRQ/UAC which makes installing without removing the radiator slightly harder.

The Cryomax stated Leaf 2013-2016 on the box, on the web it only mentions crossing to the pre April 2016 Nissan part not the post April 2016 but also claims 13-19 model year fitment ;-)

Turns out it's fitment wasn't great either but on the opposite side. There is a plastic channel where the dryer sits and you can see that the dryer is too close to the condenser on the Cryomax compared to the OEM which means the entire assembly no longer aligned with the bolt holes. I had to make a new standoff out of some strip aluminum.

channel in radiator assembly

Image

Cryomax at front, Nissan OEM at rear
Image

New mounting bracket to space the dryer further out
Image

If I had the time to do mail order again I think I'd try the UAC CN 4368PFC. From the pictures I don't think it has any of the deficiencies of the TRQ or Cryomax but you never know. Buying local avoids this surprise. The Nissan part is $691 list $580 discount but it's visibly better quality. Oddly the TRQ appeared the best made of the 3 aftermarket units I tried except for the really poor connection fitment issue.

Getting over a cold, hopefully finish putting it back together tomorrow.
dorkshoei
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 9:21 am
Delivery Date: 26 Oct 2016

Re: Replacing AC condenser on a 2016 Leaf S

Ok. All back together.

I pulled vacuum for an hour. Then left for an hour. It was holding at 30 inHg. I then pulled vacuum again for 3 more hours last night and it dropped to above 30inHG (off the gauge scale). This morning it was still holding at this. I pulled vacuum for one more hour this morning then added the R134a.

I just went for a drive and I was able to pull the vent temp down to 45 degrees but it's only 70 degrees outside right now. I'll retest when it's 85+ and see what the vent temp and hi/low gauge pressures are.

As @DaveinOlyWA mentioned there was a TSB for the earlier 13-15 MY which addressed high pressure pipes cracking. NTB16-050 I was curious as the hp pipe I ordered 92440-3NK0A (which supersedes the earlier version on my car) had an additional mounting clamp with bolt hole near the high pressure port. On my original pipe the foam circle is there but not the clamp. I guess the factory when they made the car (10/2015) removed the clamp from the pipe as it's no longer used. I don't have the frame bracket. I didn't try removing the clamp.

The dealer told me that they'd not had many issues with these pipes since the TSB. I guess I'm unlucky? I sure hope it does not crack again.

I still believe my original OEM condenser is fine so no thanks to the original dealer who diagnosed it as bad. I've kept it in case I need another in the future (assuming it pressure checks) though after this time apart I'd need to install a new dryer assembly.

Four things I'd do differently if I was doing it again:

1) I ended up adding the ND11 to various points in the system (150ml total) on the basis that the freon will blow it around. I'd missed the line in the service manual that a new compressor comes per-installed with 150ml. 20ml will remain after draining compressor (which I did). Since I'd flushed the evaporator and all hoses and replaced the condenser I should have just added 130ml of new oil into the old compressor, reinstalled and not added oil elsewhere.

2) Adding TP9811-P3 dye when recharging is probably a good idea. Easy to do when switching R134a cans (425g ~15oz is needed and the cans I used were 12oz - I used an accurate set of scales to add the final 3oz from the second can). It was suggested to me that it can be hard to detect a minor leak based just on the vacuum gauges. However by this time I was already a week behind schedule due to the condenser fitment issues, my wife wanted the car to be working and I couldn't find anyone local who sold the hybrid dye. So I ordered a TP9812-BX kit which should allow me to inject dye into the lp port without hooking back up the gauges. It will be here next week. I'll just sell it on after I'm done assuming no new leaks.

3) There are a lot of bolts that look the same but are slightly different, especially for the charging port bracket. I did use multiple different zip-lock bags and marked them but I only did a 90% job and this cost me time. Take detailed pictures at each step and look for bolt differences, mark the bolts you remove at each step onto the image (the fiche is ok at showing where bolts go and the part# but not at what the bolt looks like) and add add them to an individually marked zip lock

4) Also, dropping bolts is really easy. I had one drop thru a hole and into a frame member which took for ever to find. Usually they just fall onto the underside particle board guard. If I had access to ramps removing this guard would make finding dropped bolts easier. On the topic of this guard, I did use some fiberglass to fix all the cracks in mine (I guess from driving over things). They were reasonably easy to fix with it still installed.

On the topic of bolts. The bolts that secure the hoses (to the firewall, compressor, condenser) are all the same style (threaded with an unthreaded tip at the end) but one was shorter. Looking at the parts fiche the bolt that mounts the clamp to the headwall (to evaporator) is the only one with a different part#. So I figured that must be the shorter one. Odd as the clamp it goes through is the same thickness as the rest. If I'd paid better attention (above) I would have saved myself time here. Too bad Nissan can't just list the bolt specs (TD and length) on the parts fiche.

My best move was putting the front back on the car when I was finished and forgetting I'd not reinstalled the foam bumper. Had to take the front off again ;-(

Hope this helps someone else! Thanks to all those who offered constructive help!
Last edited by dorkshoei on Tue May 31, 2022 4:59 pm, edited 3 times in total.
dorkshoei
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 9:21 am
Delivery Date: 26 Oct 2016

Re: Replacing AC condenser on a 2016 Leaf S

Oh and here is the parts/cost

Code: Select all

Condenser Cryomax		$125.00
OEM H/P Pipe 92440-3NK0A	$ 89.71
R134a 2x12oz		 	$ 21.98
ND11 oil 200ml		 	$ 18.99
A/C O-Ring kit			$  5.29
A/C Flush			$ 39.99 (1/2 used)
R134 can tap			$  6.99
H/Freight Manifold Gauge	$ 37.46

Total:  			$345.41

Dye injector TP9812-BX 		$124.39
UV Flashlight			$  6.00
UV Glasses			$  2.00
User avatar
Nubo
Posts: 6257
Joined: Fri May 28, 2010 11:01 am
Delivery Date: 31 Oct 2014
Location: Vallejo, CA

Re: Replacing AC condenser on a 2016 Leaf S

Congratulations; thanks for all the info.
I noticed you're still working with polymers.

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