Revision 2 upgrade for Nissan EVSE - Allows full level 2!

Phil,
1. I am willing to help look at the firmware code to help make the Pilot settings selectable at Power-ON of the EVSE, if you wish.

2. A resistor put across the Pilot to Ground pins BEFORE the power-ON would seem best make Pilot selections. Different values could give the "standard" 9v, 6v, and 3v voltage values, presumably easily read by a subroutine in the existing firmware.

3. The default should be the present 12A "charge anywhere" Pilot setting, so that there are not mistakes with using the R2 where only the R1 would work (120v x 2 = 240v on 15A circuits).

4. The 6v (a 1k resistor) setting could provide the other most-useful (16A) Pilot value, for use on 20-amp circuits.

NOTE: The 9v voltage, if used at all for a Pilot setting, would be what the EVSE would see if the J1772 is ALREADY plugged into the car when the EVSE is being Powered-On. So, it might be better to NOT use this voltage for a higher-than-default current, but use it (3k ohm for 9v) to set the Pilot to 8A (see below).

5. Then, of only marginal extra value, an 18A or 20A (whatever MAX the present EVSE hardware could support) 3v, 330 ohm, setting MIGHT be provided, but perhaps NOT WORTH pushing the ratings of components in the box. Also, not useful on the present LEAF.

6. Although a reduced, "shared-circuit" (8A) value Pilot could be provided, it would get much less frequent use. Perhaps the 9v value as noted above.

7. if the Mod-L1R2 is a fairly quick mod (unseal, open, flash, test, close, test, seal, sticker), I would be willing to offer to do a couple of "workshops" for you here in southern CA to perform the R2 mod for your existing R1 customers down here, to avoid the $40 and delay in shipping the EVSE two ways.

About fixed-Pilot versions:

1. A fixed 20-amp version (even if the internal circuitry would handle it) would not be useful on the 2011 LEAF, and might be problematic in use on a "6.6" charger, since 20-amp circuits could not be used safely. So, not a good choice, in my opinion.

2. A fixed 16-amp version is useful on the 2011 LEAF, but no longer allows two 120v 15A circuits to be used for "240v" charging. The user would need to check for 20-amp 120v circuits, or be stuck with "slow" 120v charging. I think the default "plug-and-use" mode should retain the "safe-to-use-anywhere" 12A Pilot. So, not a "safest" option, in my opinion.

Switchable Pilot, two modes:

If only producing 12A and 16A Pilots, the R2 COULD sense being already plugged into the EV (9v at Power-ON of the EVSE) to select the more-powerful 16A mode, but stay with the "safe" 12A Pilot for the more-normal use (Power-On the EVSE BEFORE plugging into the LEAF).

garygid said:

If only producing 12A and 16A Pilots, the R2 COULD sense being already plugged into the EV (9v at Power-ON of the EVSE) to select the more-powerful 16A mode, but stay with the "safe" 12A Pilot for the more-normal use (Power-On the EVSE BEFORE plugging into the LEAF).

Click to expand...

I thought of this, but the reverse should be true, in case of a power failure. If the handle is plugged into the car and then the AC plug is connected, it should choose 12a. If you manually connect the handle after power is applied, then it could move to 16a.

I don't like the resistor to program method, instead here's my current favorite: Take a paperclip and insert it into the 2 small holes in the J1772 handle, then you use the button on the handle to cycle through the modes (the LED's will indicate which mode) then when you pull the paperclip, the mode is saved to EEPROM.

The industrious owners can then open their handle and install a momentary switch that does the same function without need of a paperclip.

This way it's software-only on my part.

Do you know Fujitsu MB95280H assembly? =)

-Phil

garygid said:

7. if the Mod-L1R2 is a fairly quick mod (unseal, open, flash, test, close, test, seal, sticker), I would be willing to offer to do a couple of "workshops" for you here in southern CA to perform the R2 mod for your existing R1 customers down here, to avoid the $40 and delay in shipping the EVSE two ways.

Click to expand...

Great suggestion if Phil allows it. I don't care so much about the $, but more about how long I'll be out of commission.

Ingineer said:

I don't like the resistor to program method, instead here's my current favorite: Take a paperclip and insert it into the 2 small holes in the J1772 handle, then you use the button on the handle to cycle through the modes (the LED's will indicate which mode) then when you pull the paperclip, the mode is saved to EEPROM.

The industrious owners can then open their handle and install a momentary switch that does the same function without need of a paperclip.

This way it's software-only on my part.

Click to expand...

While the J1772 is designed for complete safety, the paperclip in the pins method is best reserved for technically advanced users. Getting people used to sticking metal objects in electrical connections is.... And you don't want any mechanical damage to the J1772 connector in case people use two screwdrivers and wire or something else, though damage is fairly unlikely.

Can you do a "Enter current programming mode" in software by

1. Holding down the button for 10 seconds.
2. All the lights go blinky blinky for 2 seconds indicating you've entered programming mode.
3. Then the lights indicate current current level.
4. Any button presses less than 5 seconds from the last button press cycle through the current levels indicated by the lights.
6. No button presses in 5 seconds exits current programming mode and returns to operation at the programmed current level.

Or maybe do a hold for 5 seconds (or more), release, hold for 5 seconds (or more) again to enter programming mode to reduce any chance of inadvertent entry into program mode when using the button normally to unmate the connector.

What were you planning on doing to indicate the mode the EVSE is currently set to outside of programming mode, or do you have to enter programming mode to see it? Multicolor LED would be cool, but I imagine that gets into more hardware changes (Green 12A, orange 16A, Red 20A, or work a cool blue in there...)

Ingineer said:

Unfortunately it's not feasible to add a bunch of hardware for Rev 2. Definitely not going to install new cordsets and detection circuitry for adapter id!

Keep in mind in order to make this upgrade workable, it has to be low parts and labor cost. If we have to depot the board to add components or other circuitry, that would drive up to cost so much it wouldn't be reasonable...

Click to expand...

I am back to the mercury switch suggestion.
Default to 12A (for both 120V and 240V) unless you orient the box a specific way to make it switch to 16A.

Is drilling a hole for a manual switch totally out of the question?
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Toggle-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B000MMC7HU

MikeD said:

Ingineer:

I am in favor of your "Rev 2" EVSE without mode select logic (KISS!).

However, I am interested how you might have designed the broad features of this EVSE if hypothetically you had been given the original design task at Panasonic...

Click to expand...

If we go with a selectable mode, it will be simple (no hardware additions).

If I could design my own EVSE, it would be something like this: First off, I would have made the unit more compact. Nothing on the market has been space optimized very much at all. Even on the Panasonic, one of the smallest available, There is a lot of unused space in the box. I think the entire electronics package could be built into a "wall-wart" style plug, much like air conditioners ship with these days. Something like this:



Of course it includes a mode select button that allows you to choose charge current. 4 levels are available that are selectable (and memorized) when the button is pressed and held. It would enter amp select mode after holding for 2 seconds, then short presses would cycle through the 4 levels available, and holding the button for 1 second after that would save the selected mode to EEPROM and return to the default display.

Included is a simple three digit 7 segment display in place of the boring LEDs. It might add a dollar or two to the BOM, if that. Then you could display useful parameters, such as current kVA's being used, amperage, current charging time elapsed in hours, kWh, etc. Then when charge is complete, it would also show how many hours have elapsed (up to 99) since charging finished. You would be able to cycle through these parameters by using the mode button.

And then you woke up from your dream! =)

-Phil

Phil.
1. I have not used this particular device, but locating useful tools should not be too hard.

2. Have you located a good reverse assembler (or reverse compiler) for this device yet?

3. "Setting" the EVSE Pilot with the Release button and a programming jumper, and SAVING IT as the Power-On-Pilot mode is good, workable choice, I think.

4. Perhaps the jumper only (no button presses and a timeout), would reset the Pilot to 12A mode?

5. No jumper is 12v, plugged into the car is 9v, jumper is about 1.4v (150 ohms), and jumper with button pressed is about 4v (330+150=480 ohms).

6. At power-on, the LED(s) should blink to show/remind the user which Pilot-Mode has been selected, just like after each stage of "programming", right?

7. Adding a switch sticking out of the case should be avoided, IMO.

Ingineer said:

And then you woke up from your dream! =)

Click to expand...

Phil, you are such a tease!

ElectricVehicle said:

Can you do a "Enter current programming mode" in software by

1. Holding down the button for 10 seconds.

Click to expand...

The only "button" on the whole thing is the release button switch, and it is not connected to the EVSE electronics at all, hence the need for the paperclip. There is no way to detect it at present without doing that.

Again, I will not consider any upgrade that involves adding or changing additional hardware, it's got to be firmware only.

Keep in mind, the paperclip would not be something used often. The Rev 2 will ship with 16a mode for 240v and 12a mode for 120v. For most people they will never need to mess with it. If you do ever need to use less than that, then at least you have the option, and all you need is a paperclip.

The only other way to "talk" to the EVSE w/o adding hardware is by plugging/unplugging the J handle in a certain sequence. I haven't been able come up with anything else.

-Phil

Ingineer said:

And then you woke up from your dream! =)

-Phil

Click to expand...

And when you have it UL listed and retails for $100 that will be the dream
Maybe a little more for a 240 version.

TEG said:

I am back to the mercury switch suggestion.
Default to 12A (for both 120V and 240V) unless you orient the box a specific way to make it switch to 16A.

Is drilling a hole for a manual switch totally out of the question?

Click to expand...

Drilling holes is totally out of the question. The only one I even remotely considered is the magnetic reed switch. You wave a magnet at the front of the unit to change modes. I might consider this, but personally, I still prefer the paperclip, as it's much easier to find in a pinch compared to a magnet.

-Phil

Maybe such a "direct plug-in" version would not need "drive-over" packaging?

Maybe we can get Chris to package his first home-EVSE in something like this?

Using this with various socket-adapter cords (and possibly extension cords) might require the rugged drive-over packaging?

smkettner said:

And when you have it UL listed and retails for $100 that will be the dream
Maybe a little more for a 240 version.

Click to expand...

Heck at this rate it would probably be UL listed before the CHAdeMO unit in Vacaville. :roll:

smkettner said:

And when you have it UL listed and retails for $100 that will be the dream
Maybe a little more for a 240 version.

Click to expand...

Actually, if you look at the back of the unit, you'll see it supports optional interchangeable plug modules that slide off/on with the press of a release button. Since the unit is already universal voltage, This enables world-wide use on any outlet. There is also an optional wall-mount dock kit that enables UL and Code compliant use at 240v in the US.

First off I don't have the kind of $ it would take to get this to market. (a UL listing alone can cost way more than most cars!) Not to mention there just is no business case (yet). Once there are 50k EV's on the roads then we'll see.

-Phil

we're talking about a paperclip in the car end of the EVSE cable, right? Instead of that, how about a "cap" that could be used to enable the program mode. The cap could be like some of the J1772 'dust covers' I've see in pictures, but with the necessary contacts. You could even have a switch in the cap to select resistances or diodes...

More expensive than a paperclip, but would be something I could see a person "afraid of getting shocked" but still motivated to switch charge modes might use.

Phil,
Great design, but back to the present "R2" firmware upgrade:

You mentioned a default of 12A for 120v operation and 16A for 240v operation.

Can the firmware detect 120v vs. 240v input power?

If not, and one Pilot must work for 120v and 240v, then the "safest" default would be 12A.

If there are two Pilot modes saved, one for 240v and one for 120v, STILL the safest default Pilot setting (for liability) is 12A for both voltages, even though your proposed 12A for 120v & 16A for 240v defaults are more often useful.

garygid said:

Maybe such a "direct plug-in" version would not need "drive-over" packaging?

Maybe we can get Chris to package his first home-EVSE in something like this?

Using this with various socket-adapter cords (and possibly extension cords) might require the rugged drive-over packaging?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't build it if it wasn't rugged. It will definitely survive drive-over, but the slide on plug adapter will probably not, but those are cheap and easy to replace. The use of the plug adapters also mean you can easily replace them when they wear out.

Much like this:


-Phil

essaunders said:

we're talking about a paperclip in the car end of the EVSE cable, right? Instead of that, how about a "cap" that could be used to enable the program mode. The cap could be like some of the J1772 'dust covers' I've see in pictures, but with the necessary contacts. You could even have a switch in the cap to select resistances or diodes...

More expensive than a paperclip, but would be something I could see a person "afraid of getting shocked" but still motivated to switch charge modes might use.

Click to expand...

Are you volunteering to make/sell them? =)

-Phil

garygid said:

Phil,
Great design, but back to the present "R2" firmware upgrade:

You mentioned a default of 12A for 120v operation and 16A for 240v operation.

Can the firmware detect 120v vs. 240v input power?

If not, and one Pilot must work for 120v and 240v, then the "safest" default would be 12A.

If there are two Pilot modes saved, one for 240v and one for 120v, STILL the safest default Pilot setting (for liability) is 12A for both voltages, even though your proposed 12A for 120v & 16A for 240v defaults are more often useful.

Click to expand...

Actually the hardware doesn't have a provision for detecting voltage, but there is a trick I think I can use that may work (testing would be needed).

Either way it doesn't matter with the LEAF, as it won't exceed 12a on 120v in any event, so a default of 16a is fine.

If it ever isn't in the future, all that would be needed is a paperclip to change it.

-Phil