HOW TO: Make the VSP (noisemaker) button default to off

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Why not just disconnect the speaker from the VPS module which is in the glovebox area (or from the speaker module itself, if you are so inclined)? It won't flag an error code and the only other thing you lose is the charge connection beep which uses the same speaker.

GeekEV said:
I've seen it talked about in various threads, but I have yet to see a dedicated thread on the subject of disabling the noisemaker.
 
The reason this is better than disconnected speaker is that it would be nice to have the OPTION to turn on the noisemaker while driving.

The existing toggle button is fine if the DEFAULT is "Off", which is what this mod does. Perfect.
 
OK, fair enough. I'd go for it.

GroundLoop said:
The reason this is better than disconnected speaker is that it would be nice to have the OPTION to turn on the noisemaker while driving.

The existing toggle button is fine if the DEFAULT is "Off", which is what this mod does. Perfect.
 
I wonder if the PAC TR7 might have a mode that is ready for this. Would simulating a button press 5 seconds after startup work? Mode #9 should suffice.


The TR7:
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR7-Universal-Trigger-Module/dp/B0002J22BO

Instructions:
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/TR7/1_Instructions/tr-7_instructions_010505.pdf

Here are the bonus features:
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/TR7/3_Tech_Briefs/tr-7_tech_bulletin_002.pdf

Nate
 
Better yet, it looks like mode 17 would be better (see the bonus features) so you can program how long to wait before pulsing.

Nate
 
well there you go, theres something already made. Wish I knew that before, but shame on me for not looking. Guess I'll get back to "real" work now.. heh.
 
turbo2ltr said:
well there you go, theres something already made. Wish I knew that before, but shame on me for not looking.
Pshaw! I'm already excited about this mod - I don't care if I get this PAC TR7 and try and figure out the wiring (I'm a little intimidated by the instructions... but I'm willing to try it), or get something from you, or whatever! I've been annoyed with the thought of the noisemaker ever sense I've read about it, and this seems like an incredibly elegant solution to the problem.

So if you want something your way, post it here and I'm sure others will be interested. If this was just to see if it can be done, then I'll try his PAC TR7, but my guess is even then I'll be back here with some more questions :)
 
The cost would be about the same once you add in the PC Board and labor so I don't think I will be selling anything.

I'll be glad to give out the binaries for the PIC12CE673 if someone want's to make one themselves.

I also have several chips in stock that I could sell pre-programmed.

People can PM me if interested.
 
I can help people with the wiring and programming of the tr7. Anybody know if 5 seconds is too long? I have some of the older TR-7 units that don't support mode 17 that I could sell cheap. Otherwise, you'll need the newer TR7 unit.

Nate
 
nater said:
I can help people with the wiring and programming of the tr7. Anybody know if 5 seconds is too long? I have some of the older TR-7 units that don't support mode 17 that I could sell cheap. Otherwise, you'll need the newer TR7 unit.
5 seconds should be fine, too. Based on what turbo said, I think 2 is the minimum before the car initializes and starts recognizing the button, but I see no reason why 5 wouldn't work. I'll take one of the older ones and give it a go. I'll PM you...
 
How about this?

  • TR-7 Black to VPS Black (pin 1)
  • TR-7 Red to VPS Blue (pin 13)
  • TR-7 White to VPS Green (pin 5)
  • TR-7 Green to VPS Gray (w/Red stripe) (pin 11)

Is that right? I'll stop guessing now until I hear from the experts. :)

EDIT: Updated...
 
Someone PM'd me and I figured I'd just answer publicly because I didn't want anyone to get the wrong idea.

Any frustration expressed in this thread is directed 100% at myself...it's not the first time I ran with an idea spending lots of time on it (fortunately this wasn't that much time) and found out there are other options, or just no interest. I get overly excited (because I truly love doing things like this) and start spending time on it without thinking all the way through. It's a bad habit that I can't seem to break. The fact is no one forced me to spend time on this. Someone asked for a solution, and I ran with it. Bottom line is, I think it's great there is already an option out there for a decent price. For the number I would sell, and the time I'd spend making them, it really would be a losing proposition for me for such a cheap part.

Let's hope the SOC gauge doesn't turn into the same thing, because that project I did spend a lot of time...and now money...on. heh
 
Hey, turbo, I know how you feel. I don't blame you for dropping the project. I'm perfectly OK with using this off the shelf solution. I'll even write it up for others who want to follow in my footsteps. But I could use some help with the wiring. Your original schematic doesn't list what the pin outs are for, and I don't know much about how to read the circuit design, so I'm guessing. If you could pretty please take a quick look at the pinouts on the TR-7 and suggest which ones to connect to what, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks for taking a look at it in the first place!
 
OK, just in case he doesn't get to it, can you tell me which pins do what on your original diagram? Pin 1 seems pretty clear to be ground. Is pin 11 the +12v input trigger? And pin 5 the button press output? Is the output pin positive or negative? Based on my interpretation of the TR-7 functionality, I'm hoping it's a case of connect the +12 input to the negative output...

Thanks man!
 
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